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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a next step, a continuation of three separate DIY's by two other folks, tatge and VgRt6. This DIY allows one to continue on to any of the following:
- HVAC repair or replacement.
- Major wiring loom repair or replacement.
- Super things involving your dashboard or the dash support. I will let you dream up the possibilities!
SPATIAL CONSIDERATIONS: You will be removing a LARGE chunk of your car and placing it in neat piles. I cannot imagine someone doing this anyplace but in a garage. Think before you start!
SPECIAL NOTE: This DIY is a continuation of the technical manual published by Bentley Publishers. I will refrain from restating too much of what is mentioned in their manual. Certain steps may be different than what is noted therein.
SAFETY NOTE ONE: REFER TO BENTLEY MANUAL FOR COMPLETE LIST OF WARNINGS AND DISCLAIMERS. I am not liable for any death, maiming, or injury resulting from you wearing silk underwear and polarfleece and accidentally discharging the driver's airbag backplane into your head. Removing the driver's side airbag may be a legal issue in case of an accident or resale. You have been warned.
SAFETY NOTE TWO: In this procedure, you will be operating on or near the airbags. You should be aware of the risk of ESD when operating near the bare contacts for the driver's side airbag. This has been your second warning.

REMOVAL:

1) Follow the entirety of part I and part II of VgRt6's DIY on removing interior parts. I recommend placing all parts into the back seat, mostly to differentiate them from the parts we will be removing in later steps.
2) Follow tatge's DIY on removing the steering wheel. Remember to place the airbag with the backplane DOWN in case of discharge, preferably on a static safe surface (no carpets please).
3) Remove the plastic trim piece to the right of the gas pedal. Removal for me required a thin screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver, as shown. You can now see the airbag control module and the base of the heater core vessel. This completes removal of all non-dash trim pieces in the front cabin.

4) Remove the upper steering wheel trim. There are two phillips head screws to remove, accessed from the underside of the lower trim piece. Once these are out, the trim can be pulled up, and the flap and flap-trim can be pulled from the retainer holes in the dash below the instrument cluster.


5) Remove the lower steering wheel trim. Start by removing the rubberized handle for the column lever, shown below with the yellow arrow. Now remove the two screws in the face of the plate. There is a third screw, this one a T25, on the underside. Pull back and work the trim plate over the column lever.

6) Remove the steering column stalk pod. This is attached with a single hex screw clamp, located at the top of the column. Once this is loose, remove the several connectors for the stalk. Yours may be different, but mine had five different connectors.

7) Remove the instrument cluster. There are two T20 screws at the base, where the top column trim plate once was. Remove these and the cluster will come free. On the back of the cluster are two connectors held in by lever action. Pry the levers up carefully to remove, and now the cluster is free.

8) Remove the driver's side steel knee plate. There are probably several different models, as the Bentley shows a completely different part than the one in my first-model-year car. Remove all screws and pull out the door.
9) Free the climate control console (CCC) from the radio cage. Remove the trim plate from the face of the CCC by pulling the top firmly towards the rear of the vehicle. The Bentley mentions a special trim removal tool, but this should not be necessary. Now remove the four T20 screws from the CCC body. Finally, push the CCC back into the radio cage.
10) Remove the radio cage. Remove the four T20 screws that attach the cage to the frame member. The cage now will come free.
11) Free the fuse box from the dash. Remove the two T25 screws and it will pop free.
12) Free the OBD-II port from the dash. Remove the two T20 screws and it is free.
13) Disattach the dash from the car. This allows us to get a little better access to the various electrical connections under the dash. There may be differences in exact screw locations based on model year. However, there should be two where the left trim cover was, two on the right as well, one behind where the instrument cluster was, and two behind where the glovebox was. Pull it forward an inch to free up some room.
14) Pull the connectors for the seat heaters, ESP, and hazard lights.
15) Disconnect the three vent lights. These are trickier, and they may have been revised in later models, but for me the wires dangled from the dash instead of terminating into it. I labeled the three dash harnesses "A", "B", and "C" since they are small and easy to lose in the morass of cables.
16) Pull the dash. Enjoy!



REINSTALLATION TIPS
1) Before you push the dash back into place, make sure the CCC is back into the radio cage area. It is a pain to get it back there later if you do not do it now.
2) Try to push the dash back into place in one try. I said try, it is hard. The foam seals for the center vents are kinda fragile.


Modified by darisd at 9:02 PM 1-6-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (99.5)

Quote, originally posted by 99.5 »
nice write up bro http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Oh, this is just me getting started. I am working on the writeup for the heatercore replacement procedure.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
 

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Re: DIY: Removing the Dashboard (darisd)

Nice work! I think you've officially had more of your car apart than me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: DIY: Removing the Dashboard (VgRt6)

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
Nice work! I think you've officially had more of your car apart than me.

What is that sound? Is that my timing chain calling me?
 

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Re: DIY: Removing the Dashboard (darisd)

Hope not. I'll have to get some bonus points for doing it twice on the same car. That time is approaching.
 
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