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I decided to make this post because I asked for a few tips on installing a sub in my GLI but for some reason, I got no help. Being that the tex has always helped me out before I figure this is because not many people know the MK5 very well yet. Well, I decided to take it on and make this post. As everybody else says, I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BLOW YOURSELF, YOUR CAR, YOUR KIDS OR YOUR WIFE UP.
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EDITED: New info on remote connection
Overall, It was pretty simple but took way more time than usual (about 6 or 8 hours over 2 days). The MKV is put together very well, I actually managed to not break any trim peices or scratch anything up. This post is assuming you are using the factory head unit but the actual wiring may change for cars with different options. (see below)
Tools and Items needed:
Sub and amp (obviousely)
Correct amp wiring (kit)
line out converter (if amp has no speaker level inputs)
butter knife
flat screwdriver
Torx bit/driver (either T20 or T25 i forget)
10mm wrench
ratchet, long extension and 13mm socket
Multimeter or 12v test light
M10 or 10mm triple square bit (optional for grounding to rear seatbelt bolt)
little metal doorsill clips(dealer? see below)
Patience
First off, you will need these clips, They are pretty much one-time use and will be garbage when you pull the doorsills up. I am guessing you can get them from the dealer. If you cant fint them right away, the sills do stay on without them but you are better off having them.
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Get Power and remote-turn-on to the trunk
First you have to remove the battery and box cuz it's tight and you will need the space. remove the top and front of the battery box, unhook the battery cables with the 10mm wrench then use the ratchet, long extension and 13mm socket to unbolt the clamp on the engine side of the battery, then undo the back of the box. The buttom does not need to be unbolted.
In back of the blanket on the firewall there is a rubber wire grommet with what looks like "cow udders". You will see some oem wires coming through it but there is an udder that you can snip and run your power wire through. I drilled a hole through the firewall after I switched to 0awg wire, it's too big for the udder, but 4awg should be fine
EDIT: The 6disk GLI stereo has NO REMOTE, I confirmed this myself by checking all wires in the head and even the prongs on the stereo thatt do not have wires in the harness.
Now you have to pull the driver side door sill up. first insert a flathead screwdriver here
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Then lift it up just enuff to get your fingers in from both sides, then pull it up.I butchered some of the clips when I pulled it the first time which is why I recommend having spares. The whole sill is one piece from front to back so just follow it down to the back seat. You will find a small styrafoam piece in the front of the doorsill, either toss it or drill a hole through it to stick the wires. The piece where the hoodlatch release handle is held does NOT need to come out. you can just stick the wires up through the bottom
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The bottom of the backseat has to come out a little as well, it is only velcroed and snapped in. Pull it up from the front until it pops out, then push the seat toward the rear to release it from the hooks in the back.. It's hard to get all the way out from under the seat belts so popping it out a little will do.
route the power and remote wires through the plastic piece with the hoodlatch release handle, run the power through the fire wall. Then run it to the back under the seat, then through the trunk. Put new clips in the sill and pop it back on. Put the battery back in but do not connect amp power yet. You can now stop for the day or keep going. EDIT: run the remote wire up through fuse panel on the left side of the dash and to slot 41, it is empty and not used for anything in Jetta's but does have 12v running to it for the ignition, GTIs/Rabbits use this for the rear wiper, but you can still tap it. Use "Add a circuit" or whatever the hell it's called from the parts store.
Get the audio source to the amp and install your ground while you're at it
Now you have to remove the head unit. I didnt take pictures of this but it's all detailed here. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2111976 Just use the butter knife to pry the trim off then use the torx to unscrew it all. Wiring info is in the link and on back of the deck. You need to splice into the rear speaker wires. Stuff the speaker wires down behind the climate controls so you can pull them later. You can either tap the factory speaker wires and use a short length of speaker wire and mount your line out converter in the radio cavity, then use long RCAs from the LOC to the amp in the trunk Or..........tap the factory speaker wires with long speaker wire and mount the LOC in the trunk and use shorter RCAs to the amp or if you're using an amp with speaker level inputs and no LOC is needed, it's upto you
Pry off this piece under the climate controls from the front then remove it.
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now pry this piece off from the pass side of the dash
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You have to remove the glove box. Unscrew the torx screws from the inside and underneath. unclip the wires as you pull it off. If you didn't notice there's 1 screw for the glove box under the climate controls.
Now pry the kickpanel and doorsill up. Pull the wires from under the radio through here then over the glovebox and down through the door sill into the trunk.
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Hook up your speaker wires to the line out converter. You can use the large triple square bolt under the seat for a ground if you have the tool, this is your best bet. Hook up the amp, sub, whatever, then connect the power to the battery. I drilled a hole in the front battery box and ran the power wire in it, do this however you want for your install. Put it all back together, check all connections and you are all set.
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This setup here requires a little more than this DIY, but it's a start
![]()
Modified by blackvento36 at 1:48 AM 2-15-2008
Modified by blackvento36 at 1:59 AM 2-15-2008
EDITED: New info on remote connection
Overall, It was pretty simple but took way more time than usual (about 6 or 8 hours over 2 days). The MKV is put together very well, I actually managed to not break any trim peices or scratch anything up. This post is assuming you are using the factory head unit but the actual wiring may change for cars with different options. (see below)
Tools and Items needed:
Sub and amp (obviousely)
Correct amp wiring (kit)
line out converter (if amp has no speaker level inputs)
butter knife
flat screwdriver
Torx bit/driver (either T20 or T25 i forget)
10mm wrench
ratchet, long extension and 13mm socket
Multimeter or 12v test light
M10 or 10mm triple square bit (optional for grounding to rear seatbelt bolt)
little metal doorsill clips(dealer? see below)
Patience
First off, you will need these clips, They are pretty much one-time use and will be garbage when you pull the doorsills up. I am guessing you can get them from the dealer. If you cant fint them right away, the sills do stay on without them but you are better off having them.
Get Power and remote-turn-on to the trunk
First you have to remove the battery and box cuz it's tight and you will need the space. remove the top and front of the battery box, unhook the battery cables with the 10mm wrench then use the ratchet, long extension and 13mm socket to unbolt the clamp on the engine side of the battery, then undo the back of the box. The buttom does not need to be unbolted.
In back of the blanket on the firewall there is a rubber wire grommet with what looks like "cow udders". You will see some oem wires coming through it but there is an udder that you can snip and run your power wire through. I drilled a hole through the firewall after I switched to 0awg wire, it's too big for the udder, but 4awg should be fine
EDIT: The 6disk GLI stereo has NO REMOTE, I confirmed this myself by checking all wires in the head and even the prongs on the stereo thatt do not have wires in the harness.
Now you have to pull the driver side door sill up. first insert a flathead screwdriver here
Then lift it up just enuff to get your fingers in from both sides, then pull it up.I butchered some of the clips when I pulled it the first time which is why I recommend having spares. The whole sill is one piece from front to back so just follow it down to the back seat. You will find a small styrafoam piece in the front of the doorsill, either toss it or drill a hole through it to stick the wires. The piece where the hoodlatch release handle is held does NOT need to come out. you can just stick the wires up through the bottom
The bottom of the backseat has to come out a little as well, it is only velcroed and snapped in. Pull it up from the front until it pops out, then push the seat toward the rear to release it from the hooks in the back.. It's hard to get all the way out from under the seat belts so popping it out a little will do.
route the power and remote wires through the plastic piece with the hoodlatch release handle, run the power through the fire wall. Then run it to the back under the seat, then through the trunk. Put new clips in the sill and pop it back on. Put the battery back in but do not connect amp power yet. You can now stop for the day or keep going. EDIT: run the remote wire up through fuse panel on the left side of the dash and to slot 41, it is empty and not used for anything in Jetta's but does have 12v running to it for the ignition, GTIs/Rabbits use this for the rear wiper, but you can still tap it. Use "Add a circuit" or whatever the hell it's called from the parts store.
Get the audio source to the amp and install your ground while you're at it
Now you have to remove the head unit. I didnt take pictures of this but it's all detailed here. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2111976 Just use the butter knife to pry the trim off then use the torx to unscrew it all. Wiring info is in the link and on back of the deck. You need to splice into the rear speaker wires. Stuff the speaker wires down behind the climate controls so you can pull them later. You can either tap the factory speaker wires and use a short length of speaker wire and mount your line out converter in the radio cavity, then use long RCAs from the LOC to the amp in the trunk Or..........tap the factory speaker wires with long speaker wire and mount the LOC in the trunk and use shorter RCAs to the amp or if you're using an amp with speaker level inputs and no LOC is needed, it's upto you
Pry off this piece under the climate controls from the front then remove it.
now pry this piece off from the pass side of the dash
You have to remove the glove box. Unscrew the torx screws from the inside and underneath. unclip the wires as you pull it off. If you didn't notice there's 1 screw for the glove box under the climate controls.
Now pry the kickpanel and doorsill up. Pull the wires from under the radio through here then over the glovebox and down through the door sill into the trunk.
Hook up your speaker wires to the line out converter. You can use the large triple square bolt under the seat for a ground if you have the tool, this is your best bet. Hook up the amp, sub, whatever, then connect the power to the battery. I drilled a hole in the front battery box and ran the power wire in it, do this however you want for your install. Put it all back together, check all connections and you are all set.
This setup here requires a little more than this DIY, but it's a start
Modified by blackvento36 at 1:48 AM 2-15-2008
Modified by blackvento36 at 1:59 AM 2-15-2008
