BackgroundI, like many others, drive a MK5 Jetta with the 2.5L engine. It is well observed that the vacuum pump (for cars with the 09G Tiptronic transmission) is an incredibly common cause of an oil leak. I happen to be one of those drivers. Unfortunately, mine was becoming worse, as I noticed more and more oil and dirt collecting on my splash guard every few weeks when I removed it to check for said oil. I looked everywhere for a "how to" guide, only to come up empty. Every time I looked through another post about this subject, I kept finding little tips or the thread would turn into bickering about different methods of replacement. I decided it was about time someone made a detailed guide on how to do it.
I decided to do it myself. This is my first time doing this repair. Owning this car has been an incredible learning experience for me (as well as working in a shop for a while now) but regardless, I hope with this guide I can pass along what I've learned to others.
This guide will show you how to replace your leaky vacuum pump using only common hand tools. All of these tools can be found from local hardware stores to your Snap-On representative. You will not need to pull your transmission or loosen the transmission bolts to the engine block! So, sit back, relax, and enjoy reading this lengthy post knowing that you won't have to spend more than $25 (plus some shipping) on fixing that oil leak.
The Tools and Supplies
For parts, you will need the following
- ECS Tuning Vacuum Pump Hardware Kit (3 main bolts and gasket) - $14.95
- 70mL tube of Victor Reinz Reinzoil silicone gasket sealant - $9.80
- [OPTIONAL] A used vacuum pump, Volkswagen Part #07K145100 B, C, or H (all at a glance look identical anyway) can be found for $50-$80 on eBay (You can simply reuse your current one as long as you clean any oil and contaminants out of it while it is apart before you put the cover plate back on)
For tools, here is what I used
- (Unpictured) A LED lamp with headstrap
- 2 different length magnetic ratcheting drivers
- T20, T25, and T30 Torx bits for ratcheting drivers
- 10mm wrench
- a set of adjustable grip pliers (I have two pictured obviously, but it's only to remove the intake clamps)
- 3/8" ratchet
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3/8" 6" socket extension
- 3/8" 3" extension
- 3/8" - 10mm, 13mm, and 14mm sockets
- 1/4" - 6" flex extension
- 1/4" - 3" extension
- 1/4" - swivel joint extension
- 1/4" - 10mm, 12mm, and 1/4" sockets
- a few pairs (okay... maybe a box) of latex gloves
- paper towel/rags
- a can of degreaser
- a can of brake cleaner or similar compressed cleaner
- GoJo or similar pumice soap for afterwards
- something to chalk your wheels to prevent them from rolling (you'll learn why below)
- lots of patience
- a few hours of free time
Now let's get to work!
Here is what I am using to show you. This is the engine bay of my MK5 2005.5 Jetta 2.5L daily driver and project.
Let's get started! PUT YOUR WHEEL CHALKS IN PLACE NOW BEFORE YOU FORGET!:banghead: also, pulling your E-Brake and leaving it on will be beneficial as well.
Start by removing the engine cover and intake tubes. For removing the MAF sensor clip, push down onto the top of it, and hold it down while simultaneously pulling the clip, then simply pull the MAF plug out of the housing.
Use your T20 and a corresponding ratcheting driver to remove the Torx bits from the intake tubes and ducts, and unclamp the intake hose from the throttle body to the MAF. Then, remove the engine cover entirely by pulling up to free it from the 4 grommets that hold it into place. Once the cover is out, remove the battery.
Use your 1/4" ratchet and one of your extensions with a 10mm bit to loosen the terminals. Begin with the positive, then the negative. Tuck them away by twisting the negative cable so it is hidden behind the fuse box and find a place by the left headlight to tuck the positive cable. Then move onto the retainer at the base of the battery.
For this I used my 3/8" ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 13mm socket.
Now, remove the 3 bolts that retain the battery tray, circled below (potato quality)
For this, switch out the 13mm socket with a 10mm socket on your 3/8" ratchet and extension.
From there, unclamp your breather hoses from your intake hose. And then, unclamp your intake hose from your throttle body. Once that is out of the way, you'll have this wonderful space to work with.
The arrow is pointing to where the pump is located, and the 3 circles are what is on the transmission that we still need to move before we start at the pump.
Unclip the plug going into the gear selector from the TCM for starters. Much like the MAF plug, it will help by pushing the plug inwards first before simultaneously pulling the clip and plug out.
Then remove the cable from its plastic retainer. There are no clips holding it in, it's basically a plastic fold that holds the TCM cable into place.
Now to remove the shift linkage. This is very simple. To do this, insert your 10mm wrench under the rubber grommet at the end of the selector cable and pry upwards. Nothing will break, it is much like the engine cover grommets. Once the cable is pried off of the transmission selector, unclip the cable retainer from the transmission.
To do this, push the two tabs inward like seen in the picture above, then pull the cable upwards. It may feel like it is stuck in there pretty good, but wiggle it a little bit and it will come up.
Then, once the selector cable and TCM cable are out of the way, use your 12mm socket and remove the actual lever. You only need to remove the top nut, do not mess with the bottom one. Finally, to give your hand some extra room, unclip the cable from its retainer (picture with arrow below) and tuck away.
When that is out of the way, we have this...
As you can see, we now have a much more clear view of the pump and the oil leak it has caused by just looking at all of the oil and dirt stuck in there.
Onto the actual removal!
First, unplug the brake booster line that comes out of the side of the vacuum pump. No fluid will come out. You simply twist 90 degrees and pull it. (If the little rubber grommet doesn't come off with it, don't worry about it, we'll mess with that later.
Tuck the brake booster line behind the transmission for now to keep it out of the way.
Now onto the part that requires incredible patience and tolerance. We'll start by getting the bottom bolt out of the way, so grab your T30 Torx bit and 1/4" socket for your 1/4" drive ratchet and combine them. DO NOT USE THE ONE PIECE VERSION (unless it is similar to the one on the left)
The reason you don't use the type on the right is because it doesn't allow for wiggle room. Even though there is incredibly low room to move, the two piece one on the left allows you slightly more room to work with when your hand is underneath the vacuum pump.
(I actually tried gluing it to the socket lol, didn't hold though :laugh
Before you try to fit the bit into place, have your 1/4" ratchet with 3" extension and swivel joint ready to go. This is so when you do find that sweet spot and get it to fit, you don't have to spend much time fumbling around trying to attach multiple things with one hand.
Feel around with your fingers on your right hand so you can find the bottom bolt for the pump. Once you find it, use your left hand and maneuver it under the pump to put the bit with socket in place. This does become painstaking (I almost gave up here) especially if it is dirty from the oil and dirt. But, you'll eventually get it to fit.
Once it does fit, hold it in place! While holding it with your left hand, use your right hand to push the male end of the ratchet with the swivel joint into place. When you finally get the socket and joint clicked together, push on it so you don't lose the fit of the torx bit and bolt. Then, while still applying pressure to the socket to keep it in place, break loose the bolt. Finally, you can loosen it until you feel like there are no more threads being unscrewed, and reach your hand in to grab the bottom bolt.
Now that the bottom bolt is free, switch to your ratcheting driver again and this time use a T25 Torx bit to remove the 4 screws holding the cover plate onto the vacuum pump. Some oil may come out, but again, don't worry. Once off, simply pull out the plastic "turbine" piece as well as the cylinder itself until it won't come out any farther.
Go back to your ratchet and remove the final two T30 bolts holding in the pump, as seen below.
Once those are free, you may or may not have noticed there is a small bracket that also holds the pump in that happens to be connected to the solid black tube.
The arrow shows the relative location. Simply loosen the nut (not all of the way, I believe it is just a 10mm nut though) until you can move it out of the way. (For reference, it only overlays the left and bottom pump holes before you bolt them on again. I'll rephrase this later.)
Another picture for reference. This is with the pump removed and the bracket is hanging loose. As you can see, the bottom hole of the bracket lines up with the bottom hole for the pump.
Now is the fun part! Time to wiggle out that dang pump. This is for you to figure out in terms of exact location, because the tolerances may very well be different than my crusty old engine. Use the picture below for reference.
By using the gear selector stud and the notch as a pivot point in a sense, you will be able to work the pump out of its location. Take your time though and don't get too frustrated!
Here is what you are left with when you remove the pump! As you can see, the bracket is much more apparent here. Spray some degreaser on some paper towel or rags and wipe the contact surface clean, then go over it with brake cleaner on a rag or paper towel to ensure no residue is left behind.
Time to see what the issue was...
It's very apparent from looking at the gasket that the source of the leak was between the engine block and gasket, not the backplate of the pump. Regardless, it's time to break out that tube of Reinsoil sealant!
Old and new (used) pump for reference
Time to reassemble!
Put a small even bead around the raised lip of the gasket. This will be the side that is pressed against the engine block. A clean surface, as well as clean gasket with sealant, should prevent any leaks for a LONG time.
Do the same for the contact surface of the replacement pump.
Now, together, it's time to work them back into place. Take the gasket and pump together and like how you removed it, you now need to re-insert the pump using the gear selector stud as the pivot. Here's the picture again for reference. Re-insert the pump more from the side again.
Fun Fact: Because you have to rotate the pump slightly clockwise to get it back into place, it also is the same direction the gear selector turns at. The notch got caught while I was doing it and switched my car into reverse and it started rolling out of my garage. :laugh: I had to yell for my mom to pull the E-Brake. THIS IS WHY I SAID CHALK YOUR TIRES AND PULL THE E-BRAKE BEFORE HAND!
(NOTE: The pump cylinder does not have to be pushed into place yet to bolt the pump back into place)
Once you have it in place, Grab that flexible extension and the T30 torx and socket combo bit I had you devise and put the right pump bolt into place without tightening down entirely. Just thread it in there a few turns. Once in place, double check the retainer I mentioned earlier, and make sure it is not in between the new gasket and vacuum pump. The order should be as follows before you bolt the final two bolts into place, engine block -> gasket -> vacuum pump -> retainer IN THAT ORDER. If you do not do that properly, expect oil EVERYWHERE when you start your engine again.
Now get that 1/4" ratchet and 3" extension and swivel back to where it's in close reach.
Once the order is correct, put the left pump bolt roughly into place. Then, using your left hand again, guide the new bolt and T30/flexible extension combo into the bottom hole. Once threaded, hold the setup into place and attach the ratchet to the end of the flexible extension and tighten down as much as you can. From there, work out the flexible attachment with your right hand (while still holding the bit and socket into place with your left) and attach the swivel and 3" set up we used earlier and tighten the bolt until you feel it's as tight as can be without stripping it. Then do the same for the other two that were just loosely threaded into place earlier.
Grab that piece of plastic you pulled out of the pump earlier and give it a good cleaning to make sure there's no dirt. Take the plastic turbine and pull out the cylinder so you can rotate it (for me I was able to re-insert the plastic at about 90 degrees to work around the selector stud) and re-insert the plastic.
Slowly rotate while pushing in the cylinder until it locks into place. It does this because it has to lock into a sprocket for the upper chain.
Now, take the rubber seal and make sure that isn't dirty either and give it a nice uniform coat of sealant ON ONE SIDE. Then put the side with sealant facing into the pump.
Same with the cover plate. Make sure it is clean, and follow the imprint left from the seal before it was taken apart and follow it with a small bead of sealant.
Screw back on the cover plate with the 4 - T25 screws, going until you feel like the screw won't go any farther unless you strip it.
Then, attach the brake booster line, ensuring the rubber grommet is in place and is fitting snug.
Time to re-assemble! By now, you should know how the rest of your car goes back together, but if you're stuck, just follow the guide in reverse for the exact order of re-installation.
Once you're finished, I'd recommend a fresh oil change as well to ensure any dirt doesn't get ground into the internals of your engine (since there was an opening to the timing chain)
Here is my lower end after changing my oil today after work (since I could take a good look from under a lift)
No fresh oil in sight! This is the cleanest my engine has probably been in a LONG time, and hopefully this helps keep it that way for a while.
Total time: Less than 4 hours
A special thanks to VW NUTTS for giving me direction on the process. Without his detailed description, I wouldn't have been able to piece together everything.
Discuss and comment below! :beer: