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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
*Do at your own risk*

VW OEM PARTS:
1K0-145-770-N – Tiguan Pipe

1K0-971-866-A -- Firewall plug
1K0-971-865-A – Firewall Clip

OR a 2” Qwik Cap from Home Depot

HOSE CLIP: N-103-030-01


TOOLS:
Torx T-30
Torx T-25
Flat blade screwdriver
Channel Locks
Ratchet
Ratchet Extension
7mm socket
13mm socket
10mm socket



1. Remove hose clamp with channel locks by the throttle body (slide to the right) & Remove T-30 screw


2. Unclip the 2 rubber hoses


3. Undo the T-30 screw


4. Use the flat blade screwdriver to pull up the clip....then pull out of the noisemaker inlet


5. Remove the plumbing from the car


6. Loosen up the upper clamp with the 7mm socket & unclip the boost sensor harness (push back on the tab & then slide down)


7. Undo the T-30 screw


8. Remove the (8) T-25 screws holding the belly pan on


9. Push on the tabs to release it from the car & set aside


10. Loosen up the lower clamp with the 7mm socket


11. Undo the lower T-30 screw


12. From under the car, pull down on the stock pipe to remove it from the throttle body hose & then wiggle it free out of the car.

13. What you removed


14. Comparison picture




15. Swap the boost sensor over to the Tiguan pipe with a T-25 Torx


16. Reinstall in the car…sliding the pipe up from underneath the car. Slide it into the throttle body hose FIRST. Then connect the lower intercooler hose. Makre sure everything is lined up, then tighten the 2 screws on the pipe to the engine block. Then tighten down the stock upper & lower clamps. Reconnect the boost sensor harness.






17. Remove the alternator bracket (if you wish)…since it’s not needed anymore. It’s 2x 13mm bolts.


18. After removal


19. These 2 hoses can be zip tied together, OR I used a OEM clip from a Passat/Tiguan to hold them together (since they don’t have the noisemaker from the factory).




20. Now you have a opening for the inlet of the noisemaker.


21. You can cap it off with a $4 2” cap from Home Depot






22. OR you can use the Jetta firewall insert for a cleaner OEM look

23. Remove the weather stripping (just peels off) & foam inserts on the ends


24. Remove the firewall panel…..lift up on the wiper cowl to see the 10mm bolt on the passenger side & the 10mm nut on the driver’s side. Make sure the wire harness on the back side of the panel is removed from the clips on the back, before you remove it.




25. Here’s the noisemaker. It’s held down by (2) T-30 screws. Remove them & then you can wiggle the noisemaker out from under the cowl






26. Now you’re left with a hole in the firewall plug.


27. Remove the upper clip (2 prongs on each side). Push back on the “plug” & wiggle the harness out of it to fully remove it

28. A comparison of the 2 firewall plugs


29. The new firewall plug & top clip




30. Slide the harness into the new plug & snap it into the firewall. Then snap the top clip onto it.


31. Put the firewall panel back in place. Make sure the wire harness snaps back into the clips on the back of the cowl piece as well. Tighten down the 10mm bolt & the 10mm nut. Install the weather stripping & end foam pieces.


32. Finished product






33. Compared to stock
 

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Highly recommended mod! :thumbup: The car sounds so much better without the noise pipe. I find that due to the lack of the resonating engine noise you can hear the turbo more clearly and the engine has a much smoother/mechanical type sound to it. It no longer sounds like you are winding the crap out of the engine when you get closer to redline. I honestly wasn't expecting a very large difference in sound but was pleasantly surprised!

Once again, great job on the write-up. If only every DIY had this many photo's and this much detail...
 

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Great DIY! This is sticky worthy!

What is the OEM part number for the small hose clap? I will include this when I order these parts.
+2 just realized I need to order that as well
 

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why the heck did they put that in there. What useless engineering expense!
I look at each one of those joints in all that pipe work as just extra potential points of failure.

They could have saved expense and put in a small recorded sound of a V8 tied to the throttle position, so when you pressed the loud peddle it played V8 sounds in the cabin.
 

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Nice write up!! Just wondering if the A3 pipe is still able to fitted on MK6 TSI engine? On mk5 many Vortexer use the A3 pipe delete.

Yep cuz that's what I used. I don't recommend it though, if you haven't purchased a pipe yet, I'd suggest getting the Tiguan pipe. If you get the A3 pipe, you will have to cut off one of the mounting arm brackets in order for it to work. This leaves the upper and lower hose clamps and one mounting arm bracket left attached to support and mount the pipe. I know I'd feel much better having one more arm holding this piece in place.

Although, mine hasn't moved or anything in over 2k miles. So, take your chances I guess. I also had to cut the hose that connects the TB to the A3 pipe as it was about 5/16 too long, causing a bend in the hose when everything was tightened down and the engine warmed up the hose. (made it soften up from the heat and crimp)


Hope this helps ya man!
 

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great write up, i mean how hard is this to do/long did it take
I found the install to be very straightforward, just make sure you have all the correct torx bits and a selection of extensions to get at the two bolts that hold the pipe to the engine. I don't think it took me more than about 45min total taking my time. If you've changed your oil before you can easily do this swap. :thumbup:
 
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