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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list):

AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWV
AWM


I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...h-everything-you-need&p=64471922#post64471922

For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant


Optional (While your in there) Parts:

- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.


Tools Needed:

- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

GOOD LUCK!!














































































































Finished product:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)
The blue balls are hidden and weigh nothing. IIRC they are required for the EVAP to function properly and not throw codes (since you want to keep the EVAP). You really would only want to remove them if you were doing this entire delete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.

If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!


Amazing DIY.
Eurodyne Maestro 7 is $899.99 :eek: Although for what you can do with it, it seems worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Words cannot describe..
Best DIY, ever?

Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.

One thing though, I was hoping there would be some kind of panoramic shot of the engine bay from above to show the difference in the completed product.
Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend.


mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?

Depends, if you dont have software to delete the CAT, you will prob get one for that, and you may or may not get the one for improper flow for the EVAP flow regulator.

Good write up :thumbup: …… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job

Already changed, my car is the one with the blue TIP :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)
Honestly, working in the bay has become noticeably easier. Things are alot easier to get to, and leasks are easier to pinpoint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.


Yeah, that wasn't my car though. The car had a auto to manual tranny swap and the guy who did it capped off the hardline to coolant neck ports, so im not sure if that led to the nastyness. I fixed that for him when we did the install, you can see the handywork of elbows, clamps, and small hose bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go. :mad:
It goes on, you just gotta work it. Out of the 2 I have done, it really only took me a couple of seconds to pop it on. Perhaps you broke off the reducer/checkvalve like I did in the pic with it wrapped in electrical tape?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
What would be different?
Thanks!
I can't tell you 100% This DIY was done on a AWP and AWD motor. The hose routing is pretty much universal. How and what to remove varies with each car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol
I do have a PDF version that I included with my kits. I have it in 1 file, and a 6 file version depending on your email provider's attachment limit.

Send me some emails and Ill try and send it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
The blue balls are for the Fuel EVAP system. All of the lines are routed on the leftmost side of the engine bay. If you had a leak there, you would smell fuel. It really isnt an integral part of the Vacuum System, but it is connected to the intake to burn off fuel vapors from the fuel tank.

Most vacuum leaks occur under the intake manifold with the smaller lines cracking due to age, boost leaks can cause issue too. I would double check all remaining vac lines and due a pressure test of your intake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.

After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
To my knowledge there is no way to get rid of the improper flow codes other than a chip tuner coding it out or finding someone who can do that to your ecu. no resistor or o2 spacer or anything will help unfortunately :(
I didnt have the code for the SAI until about a few weeks ago. Not sure why it would pop back up. There is a guy that posted in this thread that will do the delete for like $50. Although Im not sure if that will mess with other tuning on the ECU, like Revo or APR
 
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