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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol
I do have a PDF version that I included with my kits. I have it in 1 file, and a 6 file version depending on your email provider's attachment limit.

Send me some emails and Ill try and send it out.
 

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Does ANYONE know the part number for the "T" that fits in between the 3 hoses highlighted here?



I broke the nipple off while trying to replace the hose from the manifold to this "T" fitting because of a leak and need to pick this part up TODAY if possible!

Also, does anyone know if the leak that was and still is there would be hurting my max psi?
 

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Thanks for the reply to my question,

I think that's what I'm going to have to try because I went to the dealer and they could NOT find the equivalent part! After looking at their diagram for about 10 minutes and talking about it we finally found the PCV system on a DIFFERENT diagram :). He showed me the "part" that I would have to buy and its $180! Its that whole system of piping including hard pipe and their connectors. They were very friendly but said it doesn't look like they sell just the T fitting anymore. I have an AWD engine code and the more I thought about it the more I think that the OEM equipment for my vehicle is different then what they now sell in their parts... the two hoses that intersect the same T fitting that are NOT broken off both have hose clamps on them. Can anyone else confirm that not all engine codes have the 'all-in-one' hose mess as a single part?

To the OP this is probably the best write-up I've seen on Vortex. Every detail photographed and explained thoroughly. Thank you for this!
 

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awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck :thumbup:
 

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awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck :thumbup:
Another good info reply... thank you good sir. That's encouraging too... so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.

Thanks a lot man.
 

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"blue balls" vac

HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
 

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so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.
I was just giving you a suggestion based on what info i read. If you have two severed vacuum lines that need to be connected, a brass or plastic connector is the best bet if you can't easily replace the hose. If you could in some way try and take a more detailed picture, i could maybe get a better idea. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
The blue balls are for the Fuel EVAP system. All of the lines are routed on the leftmost side of the engine bay. If you had a leak there, you would smell fuel. It really isnt an integral part of the Vacuum System, but it is connected to the intake to burn off fuel vapors from the fuel tank.

Most vacuum leaks occur under the intake manifold with the smaller lines cracking due to age, boost leaks can cause issue too. I would double check all remaining vac lines and due a pressure test of your intake lines.
 

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On the subject of the T-fitting that intersects with that 4mm hose coming from the manifold and the straightthrough part of the Tee to the PCV system....

Does anyone know the diameter of the hose coming from the N249 to that tee fitting?
 

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After utilizing my great sense of deduction ;-) I think I have the dimensions of that "T reducer".

Measured the outer diameter of the through hoses, they were about 1/2".... and I already knew the inner diameter of the vac hose leading to the manifold as a 4mm. I was looking today and I think the exact T I need is a

9mm x 4mm x 9 mm which is roughly equivalent to standard 3/8" x 3/16" x 3/8".

This is for anyone that might have this question in the future. Refer to my picture above circling the area where this T resides...
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.

After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.
 

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Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
The only thing I have resistored is my SAI. I have kept everything else plugged in. No codes. I did however keep my EVAP system. I didn't feel it would be a good idea to delete it. I kept one of the check valves to the system and ran a vac line to it.

If you need resistors I have quite a few of them (No I won't be charging the prices that I have been seeing online.... 4-6 bucks for one? oh no... I will set anyone up w/ a good deal while I have them). PM me if you need some.
 

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any chance you can make a kit without the block-off plate? and whatbout shipping to canada?

I'm having a pretty hard time getting the parts individually locally, so this kit is pretty balls for me. Good write up btw..
 
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