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DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

1355283 Views 852 Replies 290 Participants Last post by  vdubguy97
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I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list):

AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWV
AWM


I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...h-everything-you-need&p=64471922#post64471922

For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant


Optional (While your in there) Parts:

- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.


Tools Needed:

- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

GOOD LUCK!!














































































































Finished product:

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Leaving Evap

I am about to do this delete but I am wanting to leave my Evap system alone. If i follow the first part of this guide do any of the lines intersect the EVAP system? or should I be fine. ? thanks for any help. :laugh:
You'll be fine. As you can see the evap system is separate:

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What will happen if I only remove the sai, n249, and pcv systems and run a separate line for the evap?
What will happen if I only remove the sai, n249, and pcv systems and run a separate line for the evap?
I've done that - and removed the evap line to the intake leaving just the one to the throttle body. No issues.
I've done that - and removed the evap line to the intake leaving just the one to the throttle body. No issues.
awesome. i will be doing this soon
Since I just got chipped(Unitronics), I also got the CAT SAI and EVAP deletes in the program....my question is do I still have to run resistors since those got deleted already? I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure:confused:
Since I just got chipped(Unitronics), I also got the CAT SAI and EVAP deletes in the program....my question is do I still have to run resistors since those got deleted already? I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure:confused:
well... search would tell u this, but ill make it a touch easyer for you....... yes u need resistors even if u had the deletes done in your software and removed the physical parts. with out resistors your car will not adapt the fuel trims and such properly. all that happens with out the resistors is ull have a car that runs ok and dosnt get a cell the way your setup now. if you use the search button or read this whole thread u should find plenty of info showing why its important to have both a software delete and resistors to get things running properly.
thank you for being kind and not blasting me to hard:thumbup: I DID read every post in this thread I just didnt recall anybody saying they had the deletes and resistors(maybe I did just didnt catch it) now I know, thank you sir
So far I have removed everything but the evap system. Are there any negative effects of removing the evap system, or risks? I don't have emissions testing in my area, so I'm not worried about that.
Question here there is a picture of the evap lines being capped off after removal behind coolant ball.... Tell me if I'm wrong but wont that cause vapor lock since the vapors have no whre to go but through the gas lines or shooting your gas cap off at the pump.Please correct me if I' wrong on that one so I can correct it or not.
Need Help...I did the full delete and now i have a very bad idle. Goes up to around 1000rpm and then down to 500rpm and eventually car dies out. I can drive, but once i come to a stop it almost dies unless giving some gas. No codes pop up.
Sounds like you might have a vac leak somewhere
Question here there is a picture of the evap lines being capped off after removal behind coolant ball.... Tell me if I'm wrong but wont that cause vapor lock since the vapors have no whre to go but through the gas lines or shooting your gas cap off at the pump.Please correct me if I' wrong on that one so I can correct it or not.
13k miles with this method and 0 issues.
I cut mine back to the pump and left them un-capped. no issues, slight gas smell on the odd day.
I didn't want to seem like a smart ass or anything just trying to figure out the best way to do it. Is there any way to permantely delete codes with VAD mobile anyone???????
Sounds like you might have a vac leak somewhere
Where would it be tho. Tried spraying the hoses with carb cleaner to see if the idle changes or dies but nothing. I also changed the spark plugs which helped for a few seconds then it started idling bad again. Also plugs were really black when i changed them.
That only works on N/A engines.. try pressure testing it:thumbup:
That only works on N/A engines.. try pressure testing it:thumbup:
Will that find vacuum leaks all the way to the intake manifold?
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