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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I posted this in the Golf/Jetta Forum as well bc some of them dont venture to the 1.8T side of things. So hopefully this may help some of you.
Well basically I have been having troubles with the dub... Back n forth to dealers, various people checking it out, all in all erratic idles, and occasional lean codes. Well we all know most likely a vac leak. So i finally got tired of it and figured out a way to go about and attempt to solve my problems. I tried everything i knew n heard of about vac leaks from fogging with a flammable substance to just oldschool grab n wiggle. Well this is what i came up with. For a more permant solution go to HD or Lowes and get 2.5 Conduit pipe and find a PVC pipe cap that will slide in and pipe glue it together) Also i recommend not pressurizing the MAF like i did just go around it, remove it and go on the TIP.

I have since changed the below requirements to a PVC pipe and plug cap for a more suitable solution. I have made three sizes, 1.8t, TT/VR6 and one for my Truck


Materials:
1 Drill
2 Drill Bits (1 as pilot hole, 2nd size of Air Fitting)
1 dogfood or soup can (clean and roughly the size of the MAF)
1 Transition coupler (Most of us have intakes so there you go)
1 Air hose fitting
1 Nut to thread on Air hose fitting
2 rubber washers
3" Thread tape
1 Air compressor / Bike pump
X feet of Air line to reach from pump to MAF
Directions
1. Take the can and drill a hole in it on the bottom. Now take and smooth the rough edges flat, wash the can to dispose of any left over shavings (becareful can might be sharp)


2.Now place rubber washer on air fitting, thread tape the fitting and screw it into the bottom of the can. Take the nut and the other rubber. Place the rubber washer on the inside of the can on the Air Fitting Threads. Now tighten down.

3. Now place the transition coupler over the can, tighten hose clamp. Now take the can w/ coupler and attach to the MAF or if you removed the MAF (recommended) Place it in the TIP and Tighten clamp.

4. Most Aircompressors have two guages. One for the Tank pressure and the other for line pressure.

5.Turn the line pressure down to zero if the tank is already full. If its empty turn it all the way down and go ahead and start charging the compressor.

6.Now attach air hose to the can with the fitting. By now your tank should have some air in it. Turn it to about 10-15psi (Most AC gauges go about 15lbs as their lowest reading, so by now hopefully you have a Boost Gauge in car) go check your gauge. At about 10-15lbs you should hear your leaks i heard mine at 10.

7. Find/Found Vac Leaks Decompress, fix problem, Refill fix other problems if you have more then one leak, decompress and fill again till no leaks are found... PLEASE make sure you decompress before you attempt to fix a line or you could poke your eye out kid... This is what i came up with.

Well i hope this helps atleast a little. At 20lbs the PCV tends to blow oil into the intake and the oil cap tends to leak air also so try not to go that high... Im sure there is a way to cap the PCV side so not to recirc some oil (As if the car was running) back into the intake runner. As it does for emmision purposes. My car idles awesome again, starts great now, runs great, boost excellant, and pulls 19" of vac at idle and 21 on decel now.
Also as always: I nor VWVortex take any responsibilities for injuries to yourself, dub, or bystands wondering why the **** your giving your car a *******.



Modified by theswoleguy at 9:33 AM 11-22-2006
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)

great set up. looks a lot like the vag tool. the vag tool comes with a plug that you install into the intake boot in place of the pvc....so no gurgling
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (djpj06)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

its nice to see people do productive things.
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (djpj06)

Quote, originally posted by djpj06 »
great set up. looks a lot like the vag tool. the vag tool comes with a plug that you install into the intake boot in place of the pvc....so no gurgling

can use a hose clamp as well to stop it from leaking. good pics.
 

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wanna take a road trip to tx? ill let you do further testing on my car.
 

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Re: (beachball6)

egh, I need to pressure test my setup once its all back together, but damn, just got rid of all the intake piping, and slap'd a k&n right on the turbo.... looks like its goin back on. good write up though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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people keep calling this type of test a "vac test", but when in reality it's a "pressure test"
Does anyone know how to actually do a "vac test"? Is there anything that would be found by a vac test that wouldn't be found by a pressure test?
Funny true story (and related)..
A trucker chick (yes.. chick) stoped at friends lumberyard early one morning to drop off a load of wood. After scaring off the yard guys with her foul odors, she went to her cab, pulled a can of cat food from the floor and preceded to eat the thing with a plastic spoon..
That's one way to clean the inside of a can for this project
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote, originally posted by transient_analysis »
people keep calling this type of test a "vac test", but when in reality it's a "pressure test"
Does anyone know how to actually do a "vac test"? Is there anything that would be found by a vac test that wouldn't be found by a pressure test?
Funny true story (and related)..
A trucker chick (yes.. chick) stoped at friends lumberyard early one morning to drop off a load of wood. After scaring off the yard guys with her foul odors, she went to her cab, pulled a can of cat food from the floor and preceded to eat the thing with a plastic spoon..
That's one way to clean the inside of a can for this project

im sure if you have a vac leak this pressure test will find it, doin the same thing just with boost, some vac leaks seal under decel, and off set by boost, thus is why its usually really noticable at idle where its more ambient pressure and the hole(s) opens up. O yea and quiet disgusting. lol i say just wash it out lol


Modified by theswoleguy at 8:29 PM 7-3-2006
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (JacksSmirkingRevenge)

Quote, originally posted by JacksSmirkingRevenge »
May I suggest adding Chris' as well.
pressure testing your intake

i used this method and it works great also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (rep ny)

Quote, originally posted by rep ny »

i used this method and it works great also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Great write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Just to add some info, when I did the boost leak test on my DSM some time ago, I used a piece of pvc pipe and put a valve from a tire on top and sealed it with JB Weld. I like the idea with can too, would never think of it

A question thou, are you sure it's a good thing to pump it up to 15 psi?
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)

great write up i will try that out but on another note i was wondering if you could send me a list of your upgrades i like the idea that your still useing a ko3 and geting that much whp and im sick of being wasted by sti's and evo's it seems like every new sports car has more then 250 hp even the new cobalt ss so 200 whp just aint going to cut it any more so if you have a chance hit me back i could use another 60 horses and i would like to have a set up that has been tried and tested
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (GTI MK4)

stis and evos will still be hard to press on, i crept on a newer body sti about two weeks ago, license plate V8Killa. There still fast. I will be going big turbo this was just buyin time.
**My turbo is well ragged out well beyond past its efficiency.

With that disclaimer ill tell you all you want to know
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)

This thread was recommended to me by a VW Tech http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Looks like i'll be trying this is a few days.
 

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Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (the brit)

The way to cap the PCV system so you don't blow air into the crankcase is to pull the little black check valve out of the TIP and plug it with something, just leave the valve aside. This is the only place (unless you have leaking rings, valve guides, etc.) that pressure will go into the crankcase.
 
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