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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright. My shifter was pretty sticky and sloppy in my project car, and after searching for a diy, I noticed there was not one for the 02A transmission gear selector. I found some information on vortex and expanded that by dissembling my shifter and figuring out which bushings etc to replace. I sourced all of my parts from 1stvwparts.com, it took a week and a half to get here but its cheaper than the dealer and it was the weekend of the 4th.

Parts and corresponding part numbers needed for this project with illustration

#1- Selector Guide: 357711055D
#3- bushing: 357711590B
#4- bushing: 357711124A
#6- cap (ball end): 357711164
#9- bearing bush: 357711590C
#14- bushing: 357711217
#17- damper: 357711901A
#27- bearing bush: 357711166A

I also purchased the Verdict Motorsport Shifter bracket bushings, it is supposed to help the feel of the shift, to make it more "notchy" i guess.


The rebuild parts cost me $18.30 plus shipping and the Bracket bushings cost me $20 plus shipping. This is much cheaper than buying a new box.

DIY as follows:

1. Drop down your exhaust and remove the heatshields and shifter box/cable assembly.
2. Split shifter by bending the 9 or so tabs back and prying it apart with a screwdriver. There is some adhesive or silicone in there but don't worry, it will be replaced.

3. Unbolt the cables from the front of the box via two bolts and remove the two cotter pins from where the cables connect to the shifter.


4. Unbolt the unit from the box

5. Remove the bolt used for adjustment, the retaining clips, the side-to-side spring and all bushings. You should be left with a pile like this:

and one like this:

6. Push reverse spring down and remove the retaining clip, spring and selector.
7. Clean all metal parts in simple green or other degreaser, which will leave you with a pile like this:


New parts in front, old behind them. You can see the wear on the parts.


8. Reassemble shifter in the reverse order, using the new bushings and a liberal application of general purpose grease. For me, everything went back together easily except for the ball end cap, which i had to use pliers to stretch it out in order to put it on the ball.
9. Rebolt the shifter in the box and reattach the shifter cables via the bolts and the cotter pins. Grease the cable ends and anything that touches something else in the shifter box.
10. Run a bead of silicone (I used ultra black cause I had it in my toolbox) around the edge of the bottom piece. Press the piece to the box and fold the tabs you had previously bent back into their original place.
11. Reinstall shifter box, bracket, heatshields, exhaust, and align shifter linkage (via diy on the tex somewhere)
12. Have a beer and then clean up. :thumbup:
 

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Good stuff man!! This forum needs more threads like this :thumbup:
 

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I highly recommend that you pick up the Gruvenparts shift actuator lever. It's a great piece for the O2A tranny
 

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No offense, but the amount of time/effort required to do this, I would have just picked up a MK4 shift tower and shifter box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I highly recommend that you pick up the Gruvenparts shift actuator lever. It's a great piece for the O2A tranny
i was actually debating that piece but at 80 some dollars i dont have the coin right now.

and the shifter feels much better out of the car, but my busy ass hasnt gotten it back in yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
howd you drop the exhaust? lift? jackstands?
Really? You jack the car up and unbolt the cat from the downpipe.

And I put it in the car today and drove and it feels like my mk4, much smoother and more precise. It was well worth my $40
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
there is no particular difference in the mk4 box, correct?
just "newer" parts?


i'd pick up a second one and "fix it up"
just to avoid my car being down so long.
i'm a slow worker. :eek:
it only took me a while because i was waiting on parts, as i ordered them after i had them in front of me. you have the p/ns listed so you wont have to do that. if you arent waiting, it shouldnt take more than a day.
 

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Captain's BB?

Very nice writeup. I will have to ask Dieselgeek if they replaced any of those parts in their Mk3 short-shifter.
That's an interesting bit of frame holding down the towel in your "degreased" pic. Looks like a Burley tandem captain's bottom bracket. If I'm right then you sure have varied interests, factoring in the Hummer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very nice writeup. I will have to ask Dieselgeek if they replaced any of those parts in their Mk3 short-shifter.
That's an interesting bit of frame holding down the towel in your "degreased" pic. Looks like a Burley tandem captain's bottom bracket. If I'm right then you sure have varied interests, factoring in the Hummer.
it is an olllllddd schwin varsity that i am repainting and rebuilding. it had a front freewheel bottom bracket but i changed it over to a regular one piece. i kept all the parts tho, it is a cool technology. and what hummer?
 

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it is an olllllddd schwin varsity that i am repainting and rebuilding. it had a front freewheel bottom bracket but i changed it over to a regular one piece. i kept all the parts tho, it is a cool technology. and what hummer?
Wow, a Varsity. I never would have recognized it. It still looks like there is a tandem's bottom tube where one would expect the chain stays, but I may be easily confused. Do you know what year it was made?

Very cool that you repaint frames. I'm not sure what you mean by a "freewheel bottom bracket" except that I once met someone whose crank arms freewheeled independently. It forced him to lift up the pedals on the upstroke. My Schwinn is a Super LeTour from 1976. Only the frame, fork, stem, levers and brakes are original now. I'd like to convert or replace it with an Extracycle with Stokemonkey.

"Hummer" refers to your vwvortex avatar. My mind has stereotypes associated with Hummer owners and bicylcists and the two don't overlap.
 
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