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Seems like a parts availability issue. Seeing as he did all of this with the heads on because he didn't have gaskets leads me to believe he's just using parts he had laying around.

Chris
Less than 10 minutes of searching.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-He...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19e3256b9a

And I found these while searching.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beck-Arnley...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2ee6ef01&vxp=mtr

They make W12 parts, but not W8 lolwut?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Seems like a parts availability issue. Seeing as he did all of this with the heads on because he didn't have gaskets leads me to believe he's just using parts he had laying around.

Chris
Yep, the only money I spent was for some loctite and red RTV. I feel there is a pretty high chance for failure seeing how I had no torque specs for anything among a few other issues. So this is really just another experiment of mine :D. When I do find some spare cash I will talk to some local engine shops about pushing steel sleeves in my spare w8 block. If my modified VR6 rod bearings last then that gives me the option of turning the bad crank I have to fit oversized bearings made for a VR6. I would then see about custom forged pistons and maybe rods too, and really build up one of these engines for a turbocharged application! Im sure I will be able to find some ARP fasteners to replace the main bearing bolts and I think the head bolts on a W8 might be the same as a VR6. I like experiments :p
 

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They were never available to begin with. VW never sold any internal bottom end parts for these motors.
Wha? Wait... What?

They're required by law to supply parts for 10 years after production, but I suppose a way around that would be to have a short block (or even a long block) as the 'replacement part'.

Would a good machine shop be able to narrow the bearings without undue stress? It seems that may be a good way to go about it to prevent distortion. Hell, you could use a junk rod and machine them using that as a jig. The machine shop should be able to chamfer them as well. Were you able to get the side clearance right? I guess you could take a lot of measurements from the originals to try to nail that down.

...Just something to ponder. I would imagine that if you were gentle (to keep from "ovaling" the bearing) that once dressed, they'll be quite satisfactory.



You need to write a letter to VW in Wolfsburg and show them what you've had to resort to. Mmmmmm, maybe not, as you'd be potentially responsible for mass-murder once heads started exploding! :laugh: :beer:
 

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They were never available to begin with. VW never sold any internal bottom end parts for these motors.
I was going to call BS on this but found out they really are available only with the whole block and heads for 10850€.

That's 15k USD. :what::laugh:

Things are so bad that even used main bearings are sold on german eBay. Seriously. "Just some insignificant scratches, only 150€."

Oddly enough one seller claims to have brand new Glyco con rod bearings (Click) but Glyco doesn't list them.
 

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Hacksaw for the win! :thumbup::laugh:
This is the equivalent of Plastic Surgery with a chisel and hammer and coming out like art. :laugh:

You should drop this one in the front and see what happens.
 

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This is fantastic. A buddy on my LeMons team picked up a wrecked W8 Passat and we pondered trying to convert our GTI to RWD using the W8 drivetrain....and possibly using the W8 motor.

Reading this thread is making us look pretty smart for NOT going this route. Although, this looks to be the perfect LeMons motor. No parts availability whatsoever and classic VW reliability. :laugh:
 

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Wha? Wait... What?
They're required by law to supply parts for 10 years after production, but I suppose a way around that would be to have a short block (or even a long block) as the 'replacement part'.
My understanding is that's not uncommon these days, for an automaker to sell just a short block and no individual parts from the assembly. But usually it doesn't cost $15K! I'll be interested to see if this engine works. I thought I was good when I rebuilt a 3T40 Hydramatic last year and it worked, but I didn't have to make my own parts :p

By the way, does anybody know where it's written that automakers have to provide parts for 10 years? I've seen that stated many times, but I've never seen a primary source on it.

-Andrew L
 

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My understanding is that's not uncommon these days, for an automaker to sell just a short block and no individual parts from the assembly. But usually it doesn't cost $15K! I'll be interested to see if this engine works. I thought I was good when I rebuilt a 3T40 Hydramatic last year and it worked, but I didn't have to make my own parts :p
I've deburred the backside of bearings, flattened the thrust bearing on a "double thrust" set of cam bearings (usually one side only has a thrust surface on a Bug engine), done some port work on heads, clearanced engine cases to clear rods, set up rocker arm geometry and some other things but yeah, I can't recall ever using a hacksaw on engine internals! :laugh:

By the way, does anybody know where it's written that automakers have to provide parts for 10 years? I've seen that stated many times, but I've never seen a primary source on it.
Yeah, I shouldn't repeat that, as I can't verify it either. At this point I still believe it, though.
 

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I would imagine that if you were gentle (to keep from "ovaling" the bearing) that once dressed, they'll be quite satisfactory.
new DIY sticky for the W8 forum - "proper # of teeth/inch on your hacksaw blade for bearing install"
future suggestions - "proper hacksaw loading to prevent damaging bearing surface." or "build your own miter saw jig for bottom end rebuilds!"

:laugh:
 

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new DIY sticky for the W8 forum - "proper # of teeth/inch on your hacksaw blade for bearing install"
future suggestions - "proper hacksaw loading to prevent damaging bearing surface." or "build your own miter saw jig for bottom end rebuilds!"

:laugh:
:laugh: :beer:

Hey, for a difference of 15 large, I'd saw them too! OK, I'd try the machine shop, but I don't have several W8 engines sitting around like our now famous OP. :laugh:

I wonder if we could find specs on journal sizes, rod bearing widths and whatnot to try to find something off-the-shelf that's compatible. Something is going to be really, really close. Likely even closer than the VR6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
This gives me so many ideas my head might explode!!!!:laugh:
I just found out that a 1.8t 5spd manual transaxle bolts right up to a w8! Just need to figure out what flywheel bolts up to a w8 crank and piece together a clutch for it. I have to say one of my favorite things about vw's is the interchangeability of parts between different years and models, sometimes it is quite suprising.


haha, I was in the middle of an engine swap in my buddy's 1.8t jetta when I pulled this trans off the donor engine and got a good look at the bellhousing....... DING! it was like a race to get the w8 off the engine stand, on the bench and bolted back to it's other half, then I swear I heard angels singing as I slid them together :)
 

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01a and 01e trannies all bolt up to any engine that came in the 1998-2005 passats, and you are looking for an s4 clutch and flywheel if you go that route you need the bellhousing spacer off the 2.7t or you can go 30v v6 flywheel/clutch and you dont need the bellhousing spacer.
 

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oh hell... i've never got the privilege of tearing down a v8. I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing. Sig'd for geared cams and pallets of beer :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
01a and 01e trannies all bolt up to any engine that came in the 1998-2005 passats, and you are looking for an s4 clutch and flywheel if you go that route you need the bellhousing spacer off the 2.7t or you can go 30v v6 flywheel/clutch and you dont need the bellhousing spacer.
Sweet! Thanks for the info
I will look for a 30v clutch setup
 
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