I'm about to give up on this. After multiple trips to the dealer(speaker replaced, tsb kit installed, something loose inside my door handle,and a couple of other trips with no luck reproducing the problem, and finally as of yesterday dynamat installed)the speakers themselves sound fine, it's door panel that rattles like crazy. I travel out of town at least once a week for work and it is terrible on the highway, however my dealer can't send someone with me to hear it out of town where it is the worst and I'm not letting a tech take my car for a few days as the offered me. I understand that they can't fix it if they can't tell what's wrong but until one of them comes to joplin or KC with me nothing is going to get accomplished. So after all my rambling I'm wondering if anyone else has the same problem. I tried searchig but didn't come up with much. I can tell it is the door panel because when it starts to rattle and I push on it, it goes away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Door panel rattle
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Umm Sorry to hear.
Have you called the VWoa hotline?
I had some issues with my service, where initially they couldn't hear the rattles. As soon as I called the number opened a case, the local service reps got their ears unplugged.
I hope things work out for you. Good Luck !!!
Have you called the VWoa hotline?
I had some issues with my service, where initially they couldn't hear the rattles. As soon as I called the number opened a case, the local service reps got their ears unplugged.
I hope things work out for you. Good Luck !!!
Joined
·
30 Posts
i have the same problem (i'm from Belgium)
Dealer fixed it, but after a few days it was back: only solution he said: new door panel (warrenty).
but first another attempt to fix it...
Dealer fixed it, but after a few days it was back: only solution he said: new door panel (warrenty).
but first another attempt to fix it...
Re: Door panel rattle (E36BMW)
It looks like this thread has sufficient information for door panel removal:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2061286
More manual searching showed this post from Achapman:
"Hi, yeah i had the speaker rattle, been in there 4 times already. I told them if they dont get it fixed im going to do it myself, service manager said "okay". So anyways if they dont get it right im going to do it myself. Yeah it will be great for some nice 3-way comp sets to go in there. or even 2 with a 4 inch mid, but 3 way makes it easier becuase you can run them from a 2 channel amp. Anways when i get the rear door off, ill post more pics. And about taking the door off. Its really easy. 1 torx screw on the side near the tweeter, 3 torx screws under the door, Carefully!!!! remove the handle(where the window up and downs are) then there are 2 more larger torx screws there, When all those are off, just make your way around the edge with your hands, and it will pop off. Then uplug the wires and tada!!"
Check out this thread for a copy of the TSB, for skin tightening torques and foam installation:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/show...&vc=1
search for "CLICK FOR TSB".
Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. I got lucky with a blunt putty knife. Slide it between the panel and the plastic upper cover where the power door windows/locks is located. If you tap up quickly, you'll force the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in slightly up. Be careful to not press up too much, or you'll break off the two tabs that stick down towards the door panel midrange cover (away from you). You should remove this piece evenly on all sides. Once you take off the PDL/PW assembly (removing the two electrical connectors), you'll see the handle you pull when you close the door. If you carefully twist it on the right side, it'll come right out and then you'll have a straight shot at the two torx head screws.
Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. They're not easy to get out. I used a modified curtain hangar and some pliars. Don't try needle nose by themselves or the clip will surely snap off. Even the guy's post above (pictures) has one of the clips stuck in the door panel (look at the lower A-pillar side of the panel, it's missing the black clip). It's FAR FAR easier to get the clips out now and then get the door panel in with the clips in the door than it is to try and align the clips into the slot while reinstalling the door panel.
I couldn't believe the TSB that VWoA specifies to solve the rattle problem. It's basically four big blocks of foam at strategic locations. It seemed a bit overkill (too large foam). As far as most of us are concerned, the TSB application DOS NOT WORK. I got some 1/8" thin x 5/8" wide grey foam insulation (1-side sticky), and placed it all around the contact surfaces of that big black piece of styrofoam. I also placed some foam on the door at the three plastic contact locations of the door panel (they're flat areas, near the top of the door panel), don't know if it's necessary.
I don't blame the dealer at all for the fix not working; they're only paid from VWoA if they precisely follow the instructions. Too bad VWoA doesn't let the dealer use their own judgement and diagnostic abilities to make their own call as to where and how the foam should be applied. They only get paid if they follow the instructions, and only the alloted payment for which the TSB specifies. I wonder if multiple applications are attempted, only the first is paid (and the dealer "eats" the labor charge).
I had problems with a buzzing sound near the security LED. A huge piece of foam was placed there, but it didn't make a difference so I figured only touching pieces can vibrate (doh!). I wrapped a piece of the foam tape right near the contact area of the panel (makes a ridge) to the door, near the LED (it's shaped). That has to be where it's vibrating.
UPDATE: **YES** the rattle is completely fixed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif So, I put some foam at the following locations:
1) flat area just underneath the top of the door (plastic pieces wedge between this and the window register). There are three areas.
2) The piece of plastic on the door panel that seems to touch the door, right under the LED. It makes a ridge
3) The entire mating surfaces of the black foam surrounding the woofer (yes I had to take it out and applied foam on all contact surfaces).
Now, what I hear is clipping when too much bass is applied. Oh well...
![]()
Some post-assembly notes:
1) Be sure to properly align the power connector that goes into the windor regulator. It is a weird connector with a purple hinge that actually has to be pulled up to remove (after pushing in on the locking mechanism), and to re-insert you have to make the hinge pulled out, press in (until the door ajar light illuminates), then gently push the purple hinge down to lock it.
2) The power window connector assembly is a PITA. To remove it, you have to pull really hard on the spring-loaded part. To re-insert it, you have do pull on it again. If memory serves, it's the cyan part.
3) I originally didn't follow step 1 above, so I had to pull the door panel off again. Of course, the round clip was again stuck in the door, so I had to remove it with my curtain-hangar trick and brute force using pliars. I used a curtain hangar because it distributes the pulling force over the entire connector, instead of on just one side.
4) There is now an even gap of 1/8" between the door and the panel all the way down the outer panel (as viewed from opening the door). Previously, with the dealer application of foam, the top standoff on the panel was touching the door, whereas all other standoffs were away from the door (tapered from top to bottom).
5) When the dealer tech reinstalled the door panel, he forgot to push the upper door panel exterior underneath the tweeter. You'll see the fold of plastic that is obviously meant to reside UNDER the tweeter cover. I think you could use a dull plastic putty knife to carefully reinsert it, even if the door panel is already assembeld. It's not really required, but I'm a perfectionist; what can I say?
6) I noticed that the areas mentioned in the flat areas on the door near the top. Those had some scratches, some penetrating the paint. I applied some touch-up paint, and that's also what gave me the idea of installing foam there.
So I am convinced my rattling was coming from the area near the LED, as the upper gap is now larger (but lower gaps are now less actually) and no more rattling. Now I can get back to enjoying my car. I'm tempted to tell the dealer of this fix, but it may be heard on deaf ears. BTW, the door panel TSB seems a bit crude of a patch; no wonder it doesn't fix most rattles.
Note also that with the door open, the door panel did not rattle with bass. It was just when the door was closed.
Modified by RobNC at 7:35 PM 9-17-2005
It looks like this thread has sufficient information for door panel removal:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2061286
More manual searching showed this post from Achapman:
"Hi, yeah i had the speaker rattle, been in there 4 times already. I told them if they dont get it fixed im going to do it myself, service manager said "okay". So anyways if they dont get it right im going to do it myself. Yeah it will be great for some nice 3-way comp sets to go in there. or even 2 with a 4 inch mid, but 3 way makes it easier becuase you can run them from a 2 channel amp. Anways when i get the rear door off, ill post more pics. And about taking the door off. Its really easy. 1 torx screw on the side near the tweeter, 3 torx screws under the door, Carefully!!!! remove the handle(where the window up and downs are) then there are 2 more larger torx screws there, When all those are off, just make your way around the edge with your hands, and it will pop off. Then uplug the wires and tada!!"
Check out this thread for a copy of the TSB, for skin tightening torques and foam installation:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/show...&vc=1
search for "CLICK FOR TSB".
Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. I got lucky with a blunt putty knife. Slide it between the panel and the plastic upper cover where the power door windows/locks is located. If you tap up quickly, you'll force the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in slightly up. Be careful to not press up too much, or you'll break off the two tabs that stick down towards the door panel midrange cover (away from you). You should remove this piece evenly on all sides. Once you take off the PDL/PW assembly (removing the two electrical connectors), you'll see the handle you pull when you close the door. If you carefully twist it on the right side, it'll come right out and then you'll have a straight shot at the two torx head screws.
Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. They're not easy to get out. I used a modified curtain hangar and some pliars. Don't try needle nose by themselves or the clip will surely snap off. Even the guy's post above (pictures) has one of the clips stuck in the door panel (look at the lower A-pillar side of the panel, it's missing the black clip). It's FAR FAR easier to get the clips out now and then get the door panel in with the clips in the door than it is to try and align the clips into the slot while reinstalling the door panel.
I couldn't believe the TSB that VWoA specifies to solve the rattle problem. It's basically four big blocks of foam at strategic locations. It seemed a bit overkill (too large foam). As far as most of us are concerned, the TSB application DOS NOT WORK. I got some 1/8" thin x 5/8" wide grey foam insulation (1-side sticky), and placed it all around the contact surfaces of that big black piece of styrofoam. I also placed some foam on the door at the three plastic contact locations of the door panel (they're flat areas, near the top of the door panel), don't know if it's necessary.
I don't blame the dealer at all for the fix not working; they're only paid from VWoA if they precisely follow the instructions. Too bad VWoA doesn't let the dealer use their own judgement and diagnostic abilities to make their own call as to where and how the foam should be applied. They only get paid if they follow the instructions, and only the alloted payment for which the TSB specifies. I wonder if multiple applications are attempted, only the first is paid (and the dealer "eats" the labor charge).
I had problems with a buzzing sound near the security LED. A huge piece of foam was placed there, but it didn't make a difference so I figured only touching pieces can vibrate (doh!). I wrapped a piece of the foam tape right near the contact area of the panel (makes a ridge) to the door, near the LED (it's shaped). That has to be where it's vibrating.
UPDATE: **YES** the rattle is completely fixed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif So, I put some foam at the following locations:
1) flat area just underneath the top of the door (plastic pieces wedge between this and the window register). There are three areas.
2) The piece of plastic on the door panel that seems to touch the door, right under the LED. It makes a ridge
3) The entire mating surfaces of the black foam surrounding the woofer (yes I had to take it out and applied foam on all contact surfaces).
Now, what I hear is clipping when too much bass is applied. Oh well...
Some post-assembly notes:
1) Be sure to properly align the power connector that goes into the windor regulator. It is a weird connector with a purple hinge that actually has to be pulled up to remove (after pushing in on the locking mechanism), and to re-insert you have to make the hinge pulled out, press in (until the door ajar light illuminates), then gently push the purple hinge down to lock it.
2) The power window connector assembly is a PITA. To remove it, you have to pull really hard on the spring-loaded part. To re-insert it, you have do pull on it again. If memory serves, it's the cyan part.
3) I originally didn't follow step 1 above, so I had to pull the door panel off again. Of course, the round clip was again stuck in the door, so I had to remove it with my curtain-hangar trick and brute force using pliars. I used a curtain hangar because it distributes the pulling force over the entire connector, instead of on just one side.
4) There is now an even gap of 1/8" between the door and the panel all the way down the outer panel (as viewed from opening the door). Previously, with the dealer application of foam, the top standoff on the panel was touching the door, whereas all other standoffs were away from the door (tapered from top to bottom).
5) When the dealer tech reinstalled the door panel, he forgot to push the upper door panel exterior underneath the tweeter. You'll see the fold of plastic that is obviously meant to reside UNDER the tweeter cover. I think you could use a dull plastic putty knife to carefully reinsert it, even if the door panel is already assembeld. It's not really required, but I'm a perfectionist; what can I say?
6) I noticed that the areas mentioned in the flat areas on the door near the top. Those had some scratches, some penetrating the paint. I applied some touch-up paint, and that's also what gave me the idea of installing foam there.
So I am convinced my rattling was coming from the area near the LED, as the upper gap is now larger (but lower gaps are now less actually) and no more rattling. Now I can get back to enjoying my car. I'm tempted to tell the dealer of this fix, but it may be heard on deaf ears. BTW, the door panel TSB seems a bit crude of a patch; no wonder it doesn't fix most rattles.
Note also that with the door open, the door panel did not rattle with bass. It was just when the door was closed.
Modified by RobNC at 7:35 PM 9-17-2005
Re: Door panel rattle (RobNC)
Something i found on the internet.
![]()
| Quote, originally posted by http://snopes.com/autos/grace/rattle.asp » |
A man goes to a car dealership one day after inheriting a good deal of money (or after a great business deal, whatever -- he has a lot of money somehow). After looking around the lot, he picks out the nicest, newest, fanciest, most expensive car he can. He pays cash up front and drives out of the dealership in the new car. On his way home, he starts hearing a rattling sound -- something must be wrong. So he turns around and goes right back to the dealer. The dealer is of course very sorry, and offers to either fix the car or let the man take a different one while they order a replacement. The man really wants the car, so he just has the guy fix it. Two hours later, the mechanics give the car back, saying they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. The man is a bit wary, but he drives home. Whatever the rattle is, it has stopped. A day or so later, the rattle starts again. He takes it to the dealership, and they still can't find anything wrong with it. This continues for a number of weeks -- sometimes the rattle even goes away on its own. Anyway, after nearly two months of it, the dealer is very upset -- he doesn't want to get a bad reputation. So he orders a replacement and exchanges it with the man for the malfunctional car. Then he orders the mechanics in the shop to do a complete tear-down to figure out the problem. They begin taking the car apart, piece by piece, but they can't find anything -- until they take apart the door. Inside, they find a piece of metal pipe, along with a note. Written on the note, in a scrawling, worker's hand is: "So, you finally found the rattle, you rich son-of-a-bitch." |
Something i found on the internet.
Re: Door panel rattle (RobNC)
"Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. "
Are there pics of the above panel? I would be greatful if I could see what the "the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in" look like and possibly a pic of the recess they install in so that I can see how they are retained in the door panel.
If pics don't exist I'll take some when I remove the door panel and post them here.
![]()
"Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. "
These look like your graden variety pinetree shaped clips??? If so the Eastwood door panel pliers below should work...
"http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2565&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=2565"
"Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. "
Are there pics of the above panel? I would be greatful if I could see what the "the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in" look like and possibly a pic of the recess they install in so that I can see how they are retained in the door panel.
If pics don't exist I'll take some when I remove the door panel and post them here.
"Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. "
These look like your graden variety pinetree shaped clips??? If so the Eastwood door panel pliers below should work...
"http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2565&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=2565"
Re: Door panel rattle (hatzie)
I didn't get pics of the door handle clips; I didn't have my camera when I did my door. However, I need to do the passenger door since now it's rattling like mad. I called VW about it, and they said take it to the dealer. Dealer said they'd re-apply the TSB, I said don't worry about it. I don't blame them, it's a bad fix design from VWoA or VWoG (?).
you just have to be extra careful in removing the door handle holder assembly (the thing you pull to close the door). Lots of gradual tapping with a putty knife between the door panel and the plastic surround that contains the power windows switches.
Regarding the panel holder clips, yes they are the pinetree-shaped clips. You could use something like a 5-in-1 tool with a 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep cutout in the center tip to more safely remove the clips from the door. After doing this kind of stuff for years, you develop a technique to sharply jar the door panel apart so that you don't need any such tool. It's not always the case on a lot of thin MDF-like materials used by some Japanese makes (for which I've had to literally glue back together).
I need a reminder to re-do the door panel and this time take some pics!
![]()
(just add that to the list of crap to do this weekend
![]()
)
| Quote, originally posted by hatzie » |
| "Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. " Are there pics of the above panel? I would be greatful if I could see what the "the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in" look like and possibly a pic of the recess they install in so that I can see how they are retained in the door panel. If pics don't exist I'll take some when I remove the door panel and post them here.
"Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. " These look like your graden variety pinetree shaped clips??? If so the Eastwood door panel pliers below should work... "http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2565&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=2565" |
I didn't get pics of the door handle clips; I didn't have my camera when I did my door. However, I need to do the passenger door since now it's rattling like mad. I called VW about it, and they said take it to the dealer. Dealer said they'd re-apply the TSB, I said don't worry about it. I don't blame them, it's a bad fix design from VWoA or VWoG (?).
you just have to be extra careful in removing the door handle holder assembly (the thing you pull to close the door). Lots of gradual tapping with a putty knife between the door panel and the plastic surround that contains the power windows switches.
Regarding the panel holder clips, yes they are the pinetree-shaped clips. You could use something like a 5-in-1 tool with a 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep cutout in the center tip to more safely remove the clips from the door. After doing this kind of stuff for years, you develop a technique to sharply jar the door panel apart so that you don't need any such tool. It's not always the case on a lot of thin MDF-like materials used by some Japanese makes (for which I've had to literally glue back together).
I need a reminder to re-do the door panel and this time take some pics!
(just add that to the list of crap to do this weekend
Joined
·
336 Posts
My 2.5L Jetta's front-passenger door panel rattles as well. It is driving me crazy. When it rattles, I can lean over and if I just put pressure on the door panel, the rattle goes away. Initially I thought it was the B-pillar rattling.
I may have to give this a shot or wait until my 5k-mile oil change and have the dealer take a peek.
Modified by carlos_31820 at 12:00 PM 8-10-2006
I may have to give this a shot or wait until my 5k-mile oil change and have the dealer take a peek.
Modified by carlos_31820 at 12:00 PM 8-10-2006
Joined
·
661 Posts
Re: Door panel rattle (hatzie)
I created a new DIY due to the above referenced DIY having broken pics. You can find it here and it should answer all the questions ya had.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2749615
| Quote, originally posted by hatzie » |
| "Okay, now the guy above (Achapman) didn't specify HOW to remove the inner door handle. " Are there pics of the above panel? I would be greatful if I could see what the "the (5 or 6) tab clips that are holding the assembly in" look like and possibly a pic of the recess they install in so that I can see how they are retained in the door panel. If pics don't exist I'll take some when I remove the door panel and post them here.
"Note that you may have some of those panel hole clips (round) stuck into the door. " These look like your graden variety pinetree shaped clips??? If so the Eastwood door panel pliers below should work... "http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2565&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=2565" |
I created a new DIY due to the above referenced DIY having broken pics. You can find it here and it should answer all the questions ya had.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2749615
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