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2018 Golf GTI Autobahn | 1993 VW Corrado SLC
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to say, what I did last week probably did more to change my subjective impression of this car's quality than anything else, for the better. For me, nothing says bucket of **** more than a loose, rattly/noisy interior.

I thought I'd post a new thread for this because I'm so psyched, but also so that a probable cure for most of these problems won't get lost in those old, mile-long threads. I'd gotten this idea then never gotten around/forgotten to try it out, until Mike at Tyrolsport suggested it, so :beer: to Mike, too.

The answer was electrical tape. I took a roll of it (Tartan 1710 if you want specifics) and applied it to the front and back sections of the door striker. The tape strip is about half an inch wide, which is about perfect for the striker in terms of where it contacts the latch. I probably looped the striker sections about 5-6 times each, which may have increased the thickness of each section (and the overall width of the striker) by a couple of mm. When I closed the door, the difference was immediately obvious - it was pulled in further, and seemed to shut more quietly and 'firmly'(?) than it ever had. Looking at the shiny black trim at the upper rear section of the door, it was obvious that the door was pulled in at the top by an amount roughly equal to the thickness of that trim piece. The protrusion of that trim piece on my driver's side had always been obvious compared to other cars and even to the passenger side. Fortunately, (it was always flush) the lower section of the door hasn't changed position relative to the body at all, as far as I can tell.

I've done a fair bit of highway driving since doing this, and wind noise from that upper rear corner of the door has disappeared. I have a suspicion that the occasional drops of water that used to seep past the seals, or drop in when you'd open the door, are also a thing of the past now. As a side benefit, I think that creaking noise you get over driveways and ramps where there is a twisting motion in the body, may also be significantly reduced, as the rubber seals are pressed together more firmly now, but I'll have to play with that a little more to be sure.

The door banging - man, I really used to hate the car for this every time I'd go over a serious bump, of which there are many here. Any hit where the vehicle would drop first - like a recessed manhole cover - would really provoke it. I'm not sure whether it is the restricted lateral or the restricted vertical motion of the door post electrical tape 'mod' that does the trick for this problem, but either way, it's got you 'covered'...sorry...:eek: Anyway, this one is vastly improved too, maybe on the order of 90%. I think that over the worst bumps you can still get a little noise, so I may add another tape loop. I may add some to the passenger side door too, though the problems were not nearly as bad there. I added some to the hatch striker too, and it closes more snugly and with a more solid clunk, too. My impression is that there's now less noise from the rear, too, but I'm not sure. If you do it to the hatch striker, be careful not to add too much tape as it will prevent the plastic flap from coming up and the hatch wont close properly. 3-4 loops there, I think.

I will post a crappy cell phone pic once my T-mobile gallery stops acting up, and I could get a better one today with my camera if anyone wants, though I think/hope it should be fairly clear where I'm talking about applying the tape.

By the way, I had previously had both VW TSBs for these problems performed, with little or no success; the one where they add shims behind the seals, and the application of white lithium grease on all contact points - the tolerances in my car were too great for a little grease lube to dampen things out.

For those of you who have these problems - try this out - I think for many of you it will be the best 5 minute fix you ever did; as soon as you shut the door from the outside, you'll know you fixed it.

Hope this helps.:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will take some later today. Disclaimer: not trying to say I'm who's done or thought of this, I just don't remember reading it in those long threads! In principle it's very similar to moving the striker, which some have done, though I think with mixed results - maybe because doing that changes the contact on one side, but doesn't give you the same tight fit as this, which effectively makes the striker wider.
 

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X2 pics would be great:thumbup:
A Picture would be great so we can reference how you did it per how you said. I personally am not sure what you mean and would like to see pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
White lithium grease and you don't have to have ugly ghetto tape around your door
Geez man, try reading above: it doesn't work, at least not for all. And the tape is practically invisible - nothing ghetto about it...as if WLG sprayed all over the place, especially on a dark car, doesn't look like ****
 

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Geez man, try reading above: it doesn't work, at least not for all. And the tape is practically invisible - nothing ghetto about it...as if WLG sprayed all over the place, especially on a dark car, doesn't look like ****
Agreed, plus getting it on your clothes isn't great either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is the cell phone pic; will take a better one later, as well as some of the door itself and the hatch striker, but this should be good enough to let you see what I mean, and that it is nearly invisible. I wrapped the straight section of the striker that is nearest the outside (ie, the bottom of the pic), as well as that bent rear section nearest the driver, (ie at top of pic.) The front section completing the metal loop doesn't come into contact with the latch. I think the only reason it's even slightly visible at the rear is because I cut the tape somewhat unevenly back there, revealing a little line. I would say this is better than the white lithium grease lube even if that works for you, because this is so much LESS messy and ghetto looking than that, and it's permanent - you'll be reapplying WLG all the time since it evaporates over time and is simply worn away through contact. Bottom line was, for me, the WLG didn't come close to curing the problem, anyway.




 

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In for pics.

I will try anything to not take my car to the dealer. The clunking and creaking of my drivers door is driving me crazy!
 

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Good stuff! I tried teflon plumbers tape, but it's a little too soft for what we need, and the white looked busted lol. Will have to try this out, hopefully it won't get too messy in the summer. Either way can't be any messier than the grease I tried! Thanks for posting.
 

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Can't really see it in the picture. Will wait for better pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I will go take some now, but it's on there! You just wrap it around each of those two sections.

EDIT: FFFUUUU....camera batteries are charging. But in the meantime, here's a crude piece of work to show you where the tape is, inside the circled areas.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Somewhat clearer; the tape is in each of the two sections circled above - adds a mm or 2 of thickness to those parts of the striker, and that did the trick.
 

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saweeeeeeet.

Def. going to try this.

It just ruins my day every time I drive on the highway and hear all the damn wind noise coming from the doors.
 

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Somewhat clearer; don't know why they came out so blurry...I will try again later when I go back down, but I'm not sure what else I can show you guys - the tape is in each of those two sections - adds a mm or 2 of thickness to those parts of the striker, and that did the trick.
Nice!! now won't the tape start peeling off every time the door strikes it? Or is contact minimal?
 

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That's what I'm going to go with. Is it in a paste-like form or in a spray can, absoluteczech? Any particular brand you went with over another?
I just did the black electrical tape mod, and you can't hardly see it. Works fine. The grease gets everywhere and doesn't last that long.
 

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I had this problem in the first 5K miles, and the Li grease worked great, but needed one reapplication. At about 5-6k miles the problems all went away by themselves. On my car at least, it seemed to be a bedding in/wearing in process. I have not needed any Li grease since then ( now at 11k) and everything is fine.
 
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