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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First, a big thanks goes to Ampiler for his advice. Probably wouldn't have done this without his posts and suggestions. :beer:

Some of you may have seen this already, but I figure I'll move everything into a separate thread so they're not in bits and pieces all over the forum. This post is about the LED DRL/turning signal set available on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221128437357#ht_2082wt_879). I understand there may be several versions of these LED sets around, so anybody who's interested should double check with the eBay seller before placing an order.

The actual product looks like this:

Each housing comes with a stock plug that connects directly into the stock turning signal harness, as well as a short wire used to power the LED DRLs.

The package looked like this when I received it:

The package comes with just the two housings + a small bag of wire you'll need to hook up the LED DRLs to a power source. Each housing contains 12 large LEDs in 2 rows of 6. DRLs in the top row, turn signals in the bottom row. It does NOT include the smaller clear reflector so if you have the NA stock amber turn signals, you'll have to source those separately.

The original installation instructions are available here. It's in Chinese but the pictures are pretty much self-explanatory: http://club.autohome.com.cn/bbs/thread-c-905-12169132-1.html.

Tools you'll need: flashlight, wire stripper/cutter, torx driver with T20 bit, a guide wire or wire hanger for guiding the wire, means of connecting wires (I mostly went with the heat shrink tube route), some zip ties for organizing the wire in the engine compartment.

The LED turn signals are completely plug n play with no errors, and will work with or without wiring the LED DRLs (so even if you make an epic screw-up, at least you'll still have LED turn signals :laugh: ). The turn signal LEDs are exactly the same as the ones in the mirror housing in terms of color, but brighter. The LED DRLs switch off automatically when the turn signals are on.

Power for the DRL LEDs are basically wired the same way as the Achtuning/LEDCapsule ones: make a T-connection to join both sides and then run the wire to the power source you wish to tap into (see the install link above for pics). The easiest way to do this would be to cut the wire in two, the shorter one being just long enough to run from the passenger side light to the driver side light. Use the longer one for the driver side light/power source and just splice the shorter one onto it.

Initially, I wanted to run the wire to the engine compartment fuse box, but that turned out to be the wrong answer (at least with 2.0T models) because the turbocharger require cooling after driving, so the fuse box there (and battery) will continue to carry a charge until that's done and the car completely turns off. If the LEDs are hooked up to anything in the engine compartment fuse box, it'll end up staying on for maybe 10-20 minutes after turning off the car. Therefore, your only options are either splicing into the wires for an existing light in the engine compartment, or guiding the wire through the firewall and tap the driver side fuse box instead. I'm completely risk-averse so I went with the driver side fuse box route.

Note that if you have a V6, then you won't have the issue described above and the engine compartment fuse box becomes a valid (and much better) option.

Guiding the power wire through the firewall was a bit of a pain because I have a manual transmission car. In automatic/DSG cars, there's a relatively easily accessible hole that leads to the engine compartment covered with a rubber grommet where the clutch pedal would be. Now, since I actually have a clutch pedal, I don't have the luxury of that option. If you have an automatic or DSG I'd imagine the process would be much easier (see LEDCapsule's install instruction for the Achtuning LED product for some pics on this).

Assuming you're ready, you should remove the black undertray at the bottom of the dashboard. There are 3 torx screws along the front (towards you) edge. Once those are off, just push out the single tab right by the center screw and you can wiggle the whole thing down. You don't have to do this but it only takes a minute to do and will make the job much easier.

Guiding the wire from the outside in without removing the battery and its tray is tricky, so I went from the inside out. With an automatic/DSG car, you would probably just follow LEDCapsule's instructions, just in reverse. With my manual car, I had to use the other access point where most of the wires come through:

(note the black wire coming through the same hole as the big cable loom)

The supplied wire is relatively narrow (maybe 18 awg) so if you're careful with your guide wire, it'll easily slip in beside the cable loom without any damage to the rubber seal.

Once the wire is in, it's just a short hop to the driver side fuse box. The supplied wire isn't all that long. I barely had enough left at this point to get me to the fuse box, so you definitely want to be careful with your wiring or maybe have some extra wire on hand in case you need them.

(Tapped the 25A fuse at the bottom left)

Once that's done, you're finished. No coding required and no errors, although you will still need a vagcom to turn off DRL if you don't want them running at the same time as the LEDs. The LED DRLs will come on when the car is powered on (key in, ignition on or off), and turn off when the key is out of the ignition on/power on position.

Some bad iphone pics.





They project quite a bit of light, on par with the fogs:


They don't really blend together like the pics suggest. I just don't have a good camera on hand at the moment. It does give off that Golf R look, which is pretty cool.

EDIT: Some more pics




Update: It's been about a month since my installation, and as usual for a Pacific Northwest fall season, it's pissing torrential rain just about every day. Having had more rain in a month than most other places get in a whole year, glad to say the lights are still working perfectly. I did open up the grill to see if there's any water ingress and everything looked just fine. I have no doubt these housings will last as long if not longer than the OEM ones.
 

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Awesome!!
So where did you get that small reflector? Did you already have the Euro turns, or did you buy it separately. Do you know the part #?
 

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that looks so nice.. its tempting. hows the quality on these?

i never did any wiring of any sorts, how wasy was it to hook it up to 25A?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Awesome!!
So where did you get that small reflector? Did you already have the Euro turns, or did you buy it separately. Do you know the part #?
Yeah I already had the clear turns so I didn't have to worry about the smaller reflector. You can order the small piece separately. The part number is 3C8807717 and 3C8807718 I believe.

that looks so nice.. its tempting. hows the quality on these?

i never did any wiring of any sorts, how wasy was it to hook it up to 25A?
The construction of the housing looks solid. I didn't see any flaws with the build quality. But just to be OCD, I applied silicone to the seams of the lights before installing. I did notice the OEM clear turns I took out had some condensation/mildew along the top edge so I guess being German built doesn't make them bulletproof either.

The trickiest part is probably running the wire in a sensible way in the engine compartment and then getting it through the firewall. Once the wire is inside the car it takes only a minute to open the fuse box and plug it in. There's no extra clutter since its just another wire in a sea of wires under there, and once you replace the undertray everything is out of sight.

And the last time I wired anything was probably in shop class back in high school, and that's a long time ago.:laugh: So I think most people can do this if they took the time.
 

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This just got me all excited to do mine. Hopefully I don't have to work late today because I just want to get this install done already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dug out the old Canon and took some pics today in good old crappy Pacific Northwest weather. See first post.

Do they have the option to dim when you turn on your lights as in the UK not this is a legal requirement?
You mean have them turn off when the low beam turns on at night? Not if you wire them into the fuse box. You may choose to tap into a parking light wire so you can control them using the European light switch you have there. I'm not too sure about how that would work but Ampiler did this so you can ask him for tips. :beer:
 

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Quick question. Once I went on e-bay to check out pricing of this item I noticed that there is a listed price and under it you see "Approximate C $...". What does that mean? Do I add up both numbers to figure out the total cost of the item?
 

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Quick question. Once I went on e-bay to check out pricing of this item I noticed that there is a listed price and under it you see "Approximate C $...". What does that mean? Do I add up both numbers to figure out the total cost of the item?
All that means is how much it would be in Canadian $'s. The link is from ebay.ca which is Canada eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
It's the cigarette lighter fuse, the most convenient one to use as far as I know.

Edit: the diagrams you had there seems to suggest it's the windshield washer system fuse. Hmm, I was pretty sure I had the right one... Oh well, it doesn't really matter that much as long as it powers on and off when you need them to. :laugh: Both the cigarette lighter and the washer will power on when the key is in acc power mode (one indent before ignition), and will turn off when ejecting/removing the key. If you don't want to tap into an existing fuse, you can just buy a bag of spare fuses from the dealership and choose an unused slot to use instead. Test around and see what works for you.
 

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I know this may be redundant, but, this IS the "plug and play" version for the DRLs that you and Ampiler have installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221142014568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I emailed this eBay seller for clarification, and I think something is getting lost in translation as this was our eBay communication:

Thanks for your support on our products.
For the item - 321020184230
YES, the installation is easy. the forum user with white CC is buy from our DRL.

For the cheaper DRL, we do not sell this version anymore.
Customers feedback as very complicated wire connecting.


2012/11/17 eBay Member: earfreeus
autoparts0523,您好!

I understand there are 2 versions of your DRL for CC. Is this the version that is Plug & Play into the stock turn signal harness/plug without splicing wires? Will wire to the parking lights just like this user - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-CC&p=79016328&viewfull=1#post79016328

Also, what is the difference with this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321013485073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

==================
I'd like to wire the same as Ampiler, hooking them up to the parking lights. Maybe Ampiler can chime in and confirm that these are the correct ones.

Would make for a nice XMas present to myself ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Would it matter what AMPs the fuses are? :sly:
Well, the LEDs draw so little power it's unlikely to matter. To be safe, I'd still avoid avoid tapping into any fuses that power critical systems or with a high power draw.

I know this may be redundant, but, this IS the "plug and play" version for the DRLs that you and Ampiler have installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221142014568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Yes, the posting you have there is correct. I think the seller is trying to say that he has now switched back to selling the version we have on our cars because for a while in October he shipped a different kind of unit that had much more complicated wiring (the one that was listed for $185 in your link) and I guess many buyers (including me) complained and asked for an exchange. So if you buy them now you should be getting the same thing as we do.
 

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Baye, I see you have HIDs on your reflectors. Are those 4300k or 5000k? Also, what temperature do you think are the LED. I am about to do both at once and I wanted to get an HID that is close in color.
 

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How bright is the white DRL, viewed from directly in front of the car, versus off to an angle ? (Are they very noticable in the daytime, when viewed straight-on?) Same question about the amber turn signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Baye, I see you have HIDs on your reflectors. Are those 4300k or 5000k? Also, what temperature do you think are the LED. I am about to do both at once and I wanted to get an HID that is close in color.
They're Hoen's xenonmatch bulbs, not HIDs, so I don't get pitchforked by the HID police around here. As for temp, the LEDs are 6000k, I believe.

How bright is the white DRL, viewed from directly in front of the car, versus off to an angle ? (Are they very noticable in the daytime, when viewed straight-on?) Same question about the amber turn signal.
It's kinda hard to describe since I can't seem to get a photo that accurately represents what they looks like in person, mostly because the individual diodes tend to become blurred together in the photos despite being pretty distinct when viewed in person. Ampiler's original post gives you a pretty good idea: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-CC&p=79014235&viewfull=1#post79014235

In terms of look, they're pretty much just like the Golf R DRLs. They do become more subdued when viewed from off-center, although you still wouldn't miss them if I drove across in front of you.

The amber turn signals are exactly the same as the DRLs except for the color, which is to say they're definitely brighter and more noticeable than the stock bulb.
 
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