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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been parked and tinkered with but it's come down to I need this car to be reliable and become my daily driver if I'm going to keep it. Also is losing its parking space... After 4 years of lots of dreaming no driving...well...let's just say it's not going anywhere. I'm selling my MK3 to make it happen.

Because of the timeframe and the fact that my skills with anything under the cylinder head are very limited I started inquiring at a local shop. They said they'd research and get back to me (they haven't) but they wanted to know why I wanted to keep the 1.8 head on with the ABA bottom end? I said because of the wiring etc. and it just seemed like the way to go from what I've seen on here. The guy (who definitely knows his stuff) said why not just do the full swap (2.0 L) because the fuel system is antiquated on the older vw's.
Aren't there issues with hood clearance? I mean I know it's been done but...
What do I do? Also how much will I be looking at to have this done and have something reliable...Got a couple of grand to spend.

Many thanks.
 

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Re: FV-QR (A1steaksauce)

Quote, originally posted by A1steaksauce »
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4773933
get a bentley, a few friends that know their stuff and have at it.

X2
Paying any Shop to work on a A-1 is a waste of $. You will get very little value for the $ spent. These are very simple cars to work on. Go the the local self service wrecking yard & spend a day or 2 taking stuff apart & putting it all back together. If you can do it there, you should be able to do it even better at home. If you can't learn all about A-1, or just don't like getting dirty, sell it. Most A-1's need lots of little attention & an owner who can "read" them. Most "mechanics" at shops now, have no clue if they can't read the problem off the OBD scanner or VAGcom. That's why they don't like CIS FI. Mein 2 Reichspfennings
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: FV-QR (531sb2)

the current motor has about 189K...i had the head rebuilt and put it back on myself...after all that i think i didn't clean out the holes in the bottom end well enough and the head didn't torque down right. coolant loss. that's when i gave up last time...got the wagon for school instead. the motor just sounds tired...right now it's not starting again so i think the used injectors i got rusted over yet again...not enough fuel getting to it...doh...i'd be ok with the regular 8V motor for now but i have to figure out why fuel isn't reaching.

here's what i've done myself: i have bentleys etc. maybe i'll look for help...the thing is i'd have to find a cheap place that will allow me to store and work...
on this car: (definitely the simplest of the three but axles, transmission, bottom ends...eh?)
took everything from the cylinder head up off and on.
starter
alternator
hoses
radiator
on my golf:
front brakes
starter
timing belt
other various.
passat:
alternator
 

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987 Posts
Re: FV-QR (intro)

If it has been sitting for 4 years.Possibly the fuel pump got gummed up.
So start at the relay,pump.If you hear it turn on .Pop out a injector and catch the fuel.2 reasons volume and quality of the fuel.
Thats where I would begin.
thinking of it there is a fuse too make sure that is good.You temp jump at the relay just to kick the pump on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: FV-QR (mk1dubbn)

thanks guys. i've done the fuel pump jump etc...to drain the tank before and all that...

so you're saying if i didn't rebuild the bottom end at the same time as the head i could be having problems?
 

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Re: FV-QR (intro)

Very well can happen.How much ring ridge did you have.If you some pics I have a broke down 1.6 in my shed.
Ring Ridge is where the piston rings stop and change direction.Take your
thumb nail and run it down the first few inches of the cylinder wall,You should feel the diference.This would tell you how much to bore/glaze break.
(45-60 degrees.)
Look on the bottom side of your bearings that will tell you if they are standard.
Make shure all the rods are stamped to match them back up when you
put them back in.You will also need to get them back in the same cylinder.
Its not rocket science it is easy.if you took the head off I think you can handle the bottom end.
Sorry if I jumped around.
 

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Re: Engine swap must happen or I'll lose this car... (intro)

Or just snag a jh at the wrecking yard,drive it with that engine in it.Rebuild the original one do a good job on it then swap them back.The jh is super reliable.I am getting 30 mpg out of a 020 2h tranny.
The JH was in the cabby too.
 
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