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I have a 2015 GTI, APR Stage 1 wit airbox mods and a clubsport exhaust. I've been running a few Track Night America events and have had issues with the EPC or the EPC + Engine light coming on late in the event. I'm running at PIR and general this has happened in the 3rd session of the night. I'm usually running right up to redline, but not blowing past and on the front and back straights I'm usually maxing out at 110mph. Friday night, third session I was about 3 laps in, through turn 9 and running down the back straight, just passed 100mph not close to redline and both the EPC and engine light came on, but it didn't go into limp mode. Bailed on the session and went back to the paddock to shutdown/cool down. Restarted and the EPC light was off, but not the check engine. This has happened at my last two track nights and with another coming up in a couple weeks I'd like to get whatever the issue is sorted. Any thoughts? Tried search the forum, but couldn't find anything related to redline/high speed or trackdays.
Your best bet first step is to run a scan with vagcom and see what’s causing the cel and epc light to come on.
 

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You may have just saved me a fortune. 2016 mk7, 61k miles. Have not driven it anywhere in a while due to COVID and WFH. Went to go into the office Friday, EPC light within 1/4 mile down the road. Pulled codes, only one of consequence was the 15202, stuck actuator module for the turbo. Confirmed that I have a PZEV GTI, in MA

I had called the dealer the other day and he mentioned they had a lot of EPC lights lately for turbo issues, and thought the warranty was 70k for the turbo. Either way, potentially good news. Thanks for posting all of this info. Wish me luck.


Sounds about the same as what happened to me. Wasn't really driving the car much for the past several months, decided to go out for a ride and the light came on. As for the warranty, it does depend on the state and how they deal with the emissions. For example in NY a ULEV has a different enforced warranty compared to the PZEV. The PZEV is quite a bit longer.

Anyway, I wish you luck!

FYI - The dealer installed a reman turbo. From looking through other posts, this seems to be typical of VW once you are out of the 3/36 or 5/60 VW warranty periods. Although I would have liked to have a new turbo, as long as this one works I am happy. If it breaks again in the next 88K miles they have to put in another. Sounds like they won't have any trouble finding reman turbos :rolleyes:
 

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Hey guys! I just wanted to say that I fixed my wastegate issue by just spraying a whole lot of lubricant(non-flamable) directly on the wastegate linkage and trying to make it moved by hand. I don't know the cycle yet but when you open your hood, the wastegate tries to do a couple of cycles (fully open and then close) to I tried to help it by hand and it wasn't moving a lot. After 2-3 times spraying a lot of lube and a complete night of sleep I tried to help it move again and it just uncloged completely and I really felt it open like 3 times as much as before. I then drove off and no more EPC light/wastegate actuator codes. It has been a couple of days now since. So for me at least the problem really look like it was just the wastegate linkage that got stuck. I have to say I was out of warranty so spending just 20$ on a can of lube instead of over 1500$CAD to change the turbo is a relief.
Glad that worked for you! :thumbup:

Before I found out about the emissions warranty, I spent the good part of a Saturday trying to free it up. I was able to get in the tight space and adjust it and eventually free it and use the Vag-Com to confirm all of the voltage readings were good and I was able to rerun the adaption. Then I went for a test ride and all was good for about a half hour. As soon as I was turning back into my neighborhood the light came back and it was stuck again. :facepalm:
 

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Your best bet first step is to run a scan with vagcom and see what’s causing the cel and epc light to come on.
P130A00 - Hide cylinder
Intermittent
Date: 2020-07-31 19:37:08
Mileage: 85442 km
Priority: 2
Malfunction frequency counter: 2
Unlearning counter: 255
Engine speed: 4957.50 1/min
Normed load value: 80.0 %
Vehicle speed: 158 km/h
Coolant temperature: 106 °C
Intake air temperature: 66 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.359 V
Dynamic environmental data: 209628110E0311EC0411DC03C6202F0F3D10C006D2141CABAD11DB07FF
P023400 - Turbo/Super Charger Overboost Condition
Intermittent
U112300 - Databus error value received
Intermittent
P164B00 - Oil pressure switch Malfunction
Intermittent
P008700 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low
Intermittent
P044100 - EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Incorrect Purge Flow
Intermittent
P039B00 - Cylinder 1 Pressure Too High
Intermittent
Date: 2020-07-31 19:37:08
Mileage: 85442 km
Priority: 2
Malfunction frequency counter: 2
Unlearning counter: 255
Engine speed: 5015.00 1/min
Normed load value: 100.0 %
Vehicle speed: 158 km/h
Coolant temperature: 106 °C
Intake air temperature: 66 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.339 V
Dynamic environmental data: 20962813F62729396003041464000014650001146600231467000F14680023
P052A00 - Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced
Intermittent
 

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Glad that worked for you!

Before I found out about the emissions warranty, I spent the good part of a Saturday trying to free it up. I was able to get in the tight space and adjust it and eventually free it and use the Vag-Com to confirm all of the voltage readings were good and I was able to rerun the adaption. Then I went for a test ride and all was good for about a half hour. As soon as I was turning back into my neighborhood the light came back and it was stuck again. :facepalm:
For anyone who doesn't have the warranty, try applying so nickel based anti-seize. Find one on amazon good for 2400f and apply it to the moving parts of the linkage. Once you get it free, go beat the **** out of you car so the wastegate moves a lot and become very hot. It's been 2 weeks for me and everything is fine.
 

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EPC & Overheating!

Hello forum I have a GTI 2016 automatic no mods .
I have never had an issue since I got this car with around 33k miles and know I am around 43k miles.
I drove to the bank and after I got back to my car I saw the EPC light come one, I did a quick google search on my car and said it was fine to move
Then a few minutes later I got a message of not going above 4k rpm's
I notice than my car's AC was not as cold as it was before and shortly a few seconds later I got an over heating message and I saw the needle move almost all the way to the right side.
I stopped the car, but everything seem normal no leaks or weird smells. I let the car cool down for a couple of hours and I have drove it for a while now and no lights in the dashboard now, and it seems to rev and pull normal again.
The only thing that might have affected this is that the night before I washed my car with a a high power pressure hose and since I never use it I kind did a little too much on the front of the grills maybe I wet a temperature or ambient sensor?
Any advice? I would try to find a mechanic tomorrow! :)
 

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Hello forum I have a GTI 2016 automatic no mods .
I have never had an issue since I got this car with around 33k miles and know I am around 43k miles.
I drove to the bank and after I got back to my car I saw the EPC light come one, I did a quick google search on my car and said it was fine to move
Then a few minutes later I got a message of not going above 4k rpm's
I notice than my car's AC was not as cold as it was before and shortly a few seconds later I got an over heating message and I saw the needle move almost all the way to the right side.
I stopped the car, but everything seem normal no leaks or weird smells. I let the car cool down for a couple of hours and I have drove it for a while now and no lights in the dashboard now, and it seems to rev and pull normal again.
The only thing that might have affected this is that the night before I washed my car with a a high power pressure hose and since I never use it I kind did a little too much on the front of the grills maybe I wet a temperature or ambient sensor?
Any advice? I would try to find a mechanic tomorrow! :)
Look up what codes the car gives with a scanner. If the codes are related to the wastegate actuator the dealership will tell you that you need to change the turbo BUT YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT although if it is covered by the warranty go ahead. If you do not have a warranty, just use some wd-40 and spray the wastegate linkage with it to clean it. Then, apply some nickel based lubricant(rated 2400f) on the linkage and you'll be fine.
 

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2015 GTI 2.0
85,000kms
fuel pump replaced under recall in 2017

Recently I've had a few issues with my car after driving it for 30 minutes or so. Car seems to be running fine and starts mine on cold start but after trying to start the car when its hot it stalls and if it does start sounds really rough until it gets going. This happened and the EPC light came on and then went away. No check engine light ever came on.

the codes that came up are
P008700 Fuel rail/System pressure too low
P157000 ECM disable
P044100 EVAP emission control sys incorrect purge flow
P261000 ECM internal engine off performance

any thoughts?

Thanks
 

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Look up what codes the car gives with a scanner. If the codes are related to the wastegate actuator the dealership will tell you that you need to change the turbo BUT YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT although if it is covered by the warranty go ahead. If you do not have a warranty, just use some wd-40 and spray the wastegate linkage with it to clean it. Then, apply some nickel based lubricant(rated 2400f) on the linkage and you'll be fine.
I am going through the same issues on my 2015 Golf 1.8T that was parked since late July... I bought the hi-temp lubricant and will soak the arm in WD40 first, but do you access it from the top of the engine, or below? So far I haven't looked under the hood yet and will need to spend some time one of these days. Any input?

Also I noticed that for those that have dead actuators they are available on both Ebay and other sites as stand alone parts (no need to get the whole turbo replaced unless you want to upgrade it):


Do we have any feedback on these replacements? Are they just as bad as the originals or is it an upgraded design?

I will try Attanasio's suggestion first, then if it fails I will bite the bullet and get a replacement.
 

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My GTI is still under the drivetrain warranty period, but never the less, I will start applying lubricant to the wastegate linkage - as a preventive measure.
 

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I have a 2017 GTI with 57,000 miles on the Odom... recently had the EPC light come on and had gone through the motions to sort it out. I’ve taken the car to three dealerships. All of which had no definitive answer as to what the cause was. No other lights come on to accompany the EPC light. Closest I have to an answer is that it’s related to something on the clutch switch circuit. Now it doesn’t come on all the time. When it does come on it goes off as soon as you turn the car off and once it’s back on as soon as you shift it goes off. It may continue to come on and off a few more times or it just won’t. Now I have played around a had the light on driving at a higher speed and just CUT the engine off, then back on. While in gear the EPC LIGHT remains on until the clutch is depressed. So it seems to me that it’s directly related to the clutch somehow. Any input? Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 2017 GTI with 57,000 miles on the Odom... recently had the EPC light come on and had gone through the motions to sort it out. I’ve taken the car to three dealerships. All of which had no definitive answer as to what the cause was. No other lights come on to accompany the EPC light. Closest I have to an answer is that it’s related to something on the clutch switch circuit. Now it doesn’t come on all the time. When it does come on it goes off as soon as you turn the car off and once it’s back on as soon as you shift it goes off. It may continue to come on and off a few more times or it just won’t. Now I have played around a had the light on driving at a higher speed and just CUT the engine off, then back on. While in gear the EPC LIGHT remains on until the clutch is depressed. So it seems to me that it’s directly related to the clutch somehow. Any input? Thanks in advance.
There’s also a good chance the epc light turn on due a stuck wastegate actuator. They usually turn on during a cold start and the first 5-10 after you drive the car. Wastegate actuator known to get stuck when the left undriven for an extended period of time. I would tried to find someone who has access to vag com and see what exact code you get.
 

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@TruEarner387 : Hi.

So - it's very difficult to make suggestion based on the information in your post: In your exercises with the dealers, did they happen to give you a copy of their ODIS report - which is the dealer diagnostic tool? If not, are you able to find a forum colleague that lives near-by that has a diagnostic device? The kind of information that's in a scan report would greatly benefit finding for a possible fix to your problem - I reckon

Don
 
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There’s also a good chance the epc light turn on due a stuck wastegate actuator. They usually turn on during a cold start and the first 5-10 after you drive the car. Wastegate actuator known to get stuck when the left undriven for an extended period of time. I would tried to find someone who has access to vag com and see what exact code you get.
I recall the first dealer not knowing anything because the EPC LIGHT wasn’t in when I hit there and they couldn’t get it to come on while in their poss. They thought it to be the crank position senors. Which it was not. The cold doesn’t seem to have a bearing on it coming on or off. It literally pops on randomly, then again when in motion cutting the engine off the light remains on after restart until I press the clutch pedal down. Only after pressing it down will it then go off. However if I leave the car in gear and do this it will stay on and hitting the gas and all of that doesn’t affect anything. As soon as I change gear it goes right off. It really feels like it’s directly related to the clutch. What specifically I can’t determine.
 

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@TruEarner387 : Hi.

So - it's very difficult to make suggestion based on the information in your post: In your exercises with the dealers, did they happen to give you a copy of their ODIS report - which is the dealer diagnostic tool? If not, are you able to find a forum colleague that lives near-by that has a diagnostic device? The kind of information that's in a scan report would greatly benefit finding for a possible fix to your problem - I reckon

Don
I don’t have a copy of the scan report at the moment. The scans taken I do remember onky showing the time in which the light came on and nothing else really. I did bring the car to the dealer with the EPC LIGHT still on and left the car running in which time they did a diagnostic test where they concluded at that time that it is something on the same circuit as the clutch starter switch, or the switch itself. The car has had no issue starting and still requires the clutch to be depressed to start. Which says the switch is ok, but perhaps there’s something on the circuit. I replied to another comment where I did a few things to see what would happen if I cut the engine while driving with the EPC LIGHT on. Where I found that the light stays on after restart until I press the clutch down to change gears. Signaling to me that the clutch pedal itself is a factor in the EPC LIGHT coming on and off.
 

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There’s also a good chance the epc light turn on due a stuck wastegate actuator. They usually turn on during a cold start and the first 5-10 after you drive the car. Wastegate actuator known to get stuck when the left undriven for an extended period of time. I would tried to find someone who has access to vag com and see what exact code you get.
I wonder if this is what’s happening on my son’s TSI? EPC usually within the first minute or two of driving. VCDS scan will show overboost codes on a few cylinders. Switching off ignition will clear it...and it’s not every time. I recently replaced the diverter valve as I was getting this weird shuddering at low speed in first and reverse (this is the 6-speed tiptronic on his Golf). What’s the option for fixing a stuck waste gate actuator? Is it serviceable/replaceable or do I need to look into a new/lightly used IS12?
 

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I wonder if this is what’s happening on my son’s TSI? EPC usually within the first minute or two of driving. VCDS scan will show overboost codes on a few cylinders. Switching off ignition will clear it...and it’s not every time. I recently replaced the diverter valve as I was getting this weird shuddering at low speed in first and reverse (this is the 6-speed tiptronic on his Golf). What’s the option for fixing a stuck waste gate actuator? Is it serviceable/replaceable or do I need to look into a new/lightly used IS12?
There’s some diy info on here about soaking the linkage of the actuator with penetrant oil and then coat it with hi temp anti-seize after.
I spray penetrant oil/applied anti-seize on the linkage and didn’t remove anything. It helps.

Check this:

 

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There’s some diy info on here about soaking the linkage of the actuator with penetrant oil and then coat it with hi temp anti-seize after.
I spray penetrant oil/applied anti-seize on the linkage and didn’t remove anything. It helps.

Check this:

Awesome, I appreciate the reply. I picked up a lowish mileage IS20 so that’s going into the TSI regardless. I will however use the link you provided to help me go through everything on the IS20 and it’s wastegate before installing.
 
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