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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Simple and Easy . . . . . . . . .

CUT THIS MUCH OFF ONE SIDE. . . . ABOUT 4 INCHES.


CUT THIS MUCH OFF THE OTHER SIDE. . . . ABOUT 4 INCHES.


TURN IT OVER SO YOUR LOOKING AT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE REBAR AND DO WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO TO RIP OFF THE SMALL SECOND LAYER AREA ON BOTH ENDS OF THE REBAR


MOUNT ON AS NORMAL. . . . 4 - 13MM BOLTS . . . THERE IS NO NEED TO DRILL NEW HOLES FOR THE EURO RAD SUPPORT TO SCREW INTO BECUASE IT WILL FIT TIGHTLY SQUEEEEEEZED INTO THE NA REBAR

YOU WILL BE LEFT WITH THIS. . AND A BUNCH OF LITTLE PIECES OF CUT OFF METAL. . . . THROW IT IN THE GARBAGE. . I HAD A LITTLE TROUBLE WITH ONE. . . NOTE THE WAY IT IS DEMOLISHED




Modified by polofreaks at 2:12 PM 7-15-2009
 

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Re: (polofreaks)

yeah..i'd definitely paint it. the euro rebars are just cheaper metal. a few winters in the northeast and it was toast. i probably took it off and cleaned/painted it every summer too.
quick question...do you have any problems mounting the grille or headlights with those end tabs cut off? i'm not even sure if anything gets attached to those tabs on the rebar though.
 

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Re: (polofreaks)

yeah that would be a problem cutting off the little tabs along the top with a normal grille set up, but im pretty sure it would still work just cutting it off the ends and those 2 center pieces
 

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Re: (beacom)

i have a little problem my boytold me to buy the euro rad support because i have some euro gold headlights which cant fit in a regular gti rad support.The problem is the rad support is 200 and the rebar is close to 100 is there any cheaper i can go
 

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Re: (volksunited)

yeah on the passanger side of the car there is a section you can just cut out of the rad support takes like 10 minutes and then you can get them to fit, driver side fits with some screwing around.
theres A DIY for it im just to lazy to look for it lol
 

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I noticed above it was said that the Euro core support is sandwiched and squeezed into place and thus requires no holes drilled into the NA rebar, but mine is not squeezed, and as a result there is no structural support for the weight of the assembly (radiator/condenser/fluids/core support) other than the 2 single bolts now holding onto the fender edges.

Does anyone have some picture guidance or links, or personal experience on how to modify the NA rebar with drilled holes to bolt the Euro core into place and be structurally secure? Or is this not possible without a true Euro rebar?

Thanks,
Brian.
 

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how do you tell if it is oem?
 

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no the radiator I have is aluminum and has no lower ears. its for a euro model. the lower NA bar for the original was removed and the euro core replaces the area removed. I just want to know the layout to drill my NA rebar to bolt the euro core to it so the assembly is supported properly.
 

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the lower NA bar for the original was removed and the euro core replaces the area removed. I just want to know the layout to drill my NA rebar to bolt the euro core to it so the assembly is supported properly.
Do you have any pics? I never had to drill anything when running a euro rad with NA rebar. There are two holes on each side under the headlight mount holes that the euro rebar typically bolts to. Not sure if an NA rebar matches up with it even if you drilled holes.

 

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yes thats them! without anything bolted to those locations there is no structural support for the core assembly other than the 2 fender edges at the top. Themk4 and mk5 and 6 and now 7 all have similiar designs as the euro core for the mk3 and these 2 locations are where the rebar for those cars bolts to, as is the rebar mounts for the euro rebar of the mk3.

If there is no way to bolt the NA rebar to this location by drilling some holes or some other way, I have to assume the Euro rebar is my only choice.
 
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