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Re: FAQ - Carbs (the12for12)

Quote, originally posted by the12for12 »
A.IGNITION
2.Aftermarket ignition control: Simply buy an MSD 6A(L) or Crane HI-6 ignition box and use the magnetic pick ups from the stock distributor and you will have a working ignition.
The typical belief of the ignition boxes is that they do not have a built in ignition advance.
However, the MSD has a nice built in feature that is not found while reading the instruction manual. By reversing the magnetic leads, the MSD can give you a nice timing advance curve. You simply set the ignition at you want at idle (stock is around 10-15 degrees BTDC). As you blimp the throttle, you will find that the timing jumps to around 20-35 degrees BTDC.


Well I have been speaking with MSD about this option of reversing the magnetic leads on the MSD 6 box for a "Nice Advance curve" and here's what they told me on the phone
Yes you can reverse the leads and it will advance the timing but the problem with this is
In the normal (per instructions) position of the wires the spark happens at the beginning of the timing cycle and it works great on 99.9% of all cars
but by reversing the leads, yes, you give the car a timing advance but now the spark happens at the end of the timing cycle and you will have one hell of a time getting the timing tuned properly if at all
So basically Yes it dose advance the timing but it really doesn't do it properly and more than likely it won't function correctly
 

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I have a set of weber dcoe 45's available and I want to build an ABA w/276 cam hd springs etc.

Just wondering if I was to run a 28-30mm chokes and appropriate jets etc would these carbs be okay for my application? Or am I not seeing the big picture? I have read the first page of the FAQ and saw this chart. I was going to jet according to the bold text ( I understand that it is for a 40, but I can get all these sizes of chokes etc... for the 45's)

I just really dont want to go through the hassle of selling these.

DCOE40

upto 90 BHP; 28; 112; F16; 180; 45F9; 35; 150
upto 120 BHP; 30; 120; F16; 180; 45F9; 35; 150
upto 135 BHP; 32; 125; F16; 180; 45F9; 40; 150
upto 145 BHP; 34; 135; F16; 180; 45F9; 40; 150

Weber DCOM caruburetors require slightly richer idle jets and bigger main jets

DCOE45

upto 145 BHP; 34; 135; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 175 BHP; 36; 145; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 210 BHP; 38; 155; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 220 BHP; 40; 165; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
 

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Well last night my 83 GTI came alive with the 16v swap and the webers WOW big difference from the 1.8/8v to the 2.0/16v the power band is ridiculous after 4k rpm’s. i do need to work the kinks out of it before SOWO.... then is party time..... wooo hoo!!!!!
 

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here is something i didn't see mentioned. tack signals? if your eliminating the factory ecu then how is your cluster picking up tach readings???
i have a ce1 car and goiing to do the carb setup but didn't have that portion covered....
 

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here is something i didn't see mentioned. tack signals? if your eliminating the factory ecu then how is your cluster picking up tach readings???
i have a ce1 car and goiing to do the carb setup but didn't have that portion covered....
With the MSD setup the 6AL has a tach output that works just fine.
 

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Are the grounds in this diagram with respect to the engine? or can I just ground to the chassis?
You can just ground to the chassis... Just ground it well. Bad grounds will give you very bad days. :)
 

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THe MSD 8980 is no longer available from MSD. you can still find them on ebay.

I have created a new diagram for those who would use the new 8982. MSDs replacement.

It works about the same except it allows for either 10 or 25* retard for starting below 1300RPMs

you can add pills for the top end if you plan nitrous or just want to back down your timing at high RPMS.

This is version 1 so I may change it if I see any errors. notice the Violet start retard wired needs 12V to activate it. (switched)

 

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I have something I'd like to add to the FAQ. It's a recurring theme that I'd like to address.

IF YOU'VE SWAPPED OUT YOUR EFI BECAUSE IT'S , AND YOU THINK CARBS WILL BE EASIER...YOU WILL SOON BE DISAPPOINTED AND DISILLUSIONED.

Carb 'kits' for these cars (such as the ones currently for sale by BFI) do NOT come jetted for your engine, and even if they did, it would be wrong. Every engine requires different jets, and every carb will tune differently due to slight differences in casting (especially since there is far less effort put into their design and manufacture now). If you expect to enjoy your carbed car, you MUST learn how to tune it. Shops with talented carb tuners are very few and far between now, and if you cannot tune it yourself, then you will be parting your car out very shortly. We here in the carb forum would appreciate dibs on your equipment.

Thank you.
 

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I have a set of weber dcoe 45's available and I want to build an ABA w/276 cam hd springs etc.

Just wondering if I was to run a 28-30mm chokes and appropriate jets etc would these carbs be okay for my application? Or am I not seeing the big picture? I have read the first page of the FAQ and saw this chart. I was going to jet according to the bold text ( I understand that it is for a 40, but I can get all these sizes of chokes etc... for the 45's)

I just really dont want to go through the hassle of selling these.

DCOE40

upto 90 BHP; 28; 112; F16; 180; 45F9; 35; 150
upto 120 BHP; 30; 120; F16; 180; 45F9; 35; 150
upto 135 BHP; 32; 125; F16; 180; 45F9; 40; 150
upto 145 BHP; 34; 135; F16; 180; 45F9; 40; 150

Weber DCOM caruburetors require slightly richer idle jets and bigger main jets

DCOE45

upto 145 BHP; 34; 135; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 175 BHP; 36; 145; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 210 BHP; 38; 155; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
upto 220 BHP; 40; 165; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
The trick here is that a 40 with a 32mm choke will actually flow more air than a 45 with a 32mm choke. I know, it sounds backwards, but that's physics for you. You're probably best to run a 34 at smallest in the 45s. Properly jetted, most folks are doing just fine on 36s. If you're going to be running cams, you may even want a 38 or 40.
 

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im ganna be putting r1 carbs on my 1.8l 16v and im ganna be using a holley fpr because im using this fpr do i have to change my fuel pump or accumulator? btw the fpr regulates from 1-4 psi i was told to only feed the carbs with 3psi.
 

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Can someone school me on how to set up my fueling. I'm having a hard time understanding what I need to do with my current set up. I have a mk1 on cis. So I'm assuming I would just bypass all the stock junk running a line straight from the tank to my carter to my fpr to the carbs?....am I missing something?
 

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Can someone school me on how to set up my fueling. I'm having a hard time understanding what I need to do with my current set up. I have a mk1 on cis. So I'm assuming I would just bypass all the stock junk running a line straight from the tank to my carter to my fpr to the carbs?....am I missing something?
You can get a Malpassi Filter King FPR that includes a fuel filter, then you've got both FPR and filtration in one neat-looking unit. The glass filter bowl is a nice touch, too.

If this is a budget build and you haven't bought the Carter pump, you can use the stock in-tank transfer pump and run it through the FPR. Several folks on here have run their that way with success. I plan on trying that with mine. I bought the Filter King, will be keeping/using the stock in-tank pump, and deleting the high-pressure pump that sits under the passenger side in front of the rear axle.
 
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