Dog Bone Mount
Mount used in transverse mounted engines
aka Pendulum Mount
See "Motor Mounts"
Dry Sump
INA Dry Sump Kit $2999 USD
E85
See 'Fueling'
ECU
ECU Codes
Nefarious Motorsports said:
US Market Volkswagen
2000 Golf/Jetta: AWD
06A 906 032 CL
06A 906 032 CM (notes - auto)
2001 Golf/Jetta: AWW
06A 906 032 DL
06A 906 032 DM (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 GH (notes - auto)
2002+ Golf/Jetta: AWP
06A 906 032 HS
06A 906 032 LP
06A 906 032 NK
06A 906 032 SK
06A 906 032 RN (notes - 6spd manual)
06A 906 032 SM (notes - 6spd manual)
06A 906 032 LQ (notes - 5spd auto)
06A 906 032 NL (notes - 5spd auto)
06A 906 032 SL (notes - 5spd auto)
1997-1999 Passat: AEB
8D0 997 557 HX
8D0 997 559 BX
1999-2001 Passat: ATW
4B0 997 020 AX
4B0 997 020 X
4B0 997 020 BX (notes - auto)
4B0 997 020 CX (notes - auto)
2001 Passat: AUG/AWM
4B0 997 019 MX
4B0 906 018 DA
4B0 906 018 DN
4B0 906 018 DQ
4B0 906 018 FX
4B0 906 018 CM
1999-2000 Beetle: APH
06A 906 032 A (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 B (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 S (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 Q (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 E
06A 906 032 R
06A 906 032 C
06A 906 032 P
2001.5 vw passat
4B0 906 018 CL
2001+ Beetle: AWV
06A 906 032 FD
06A 906 032 DP
06A 906 032 GB
06A 906 032 KQ
06A 906 032 PT
06A 906 032 EM (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 DN (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 GA (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 KR (notes - auto)
06A 906 032 PR (notes - 5spd auto)
06A 906 032 PS (notes - 6spd tiptronic)
2002 Beetle Turbo S: AWP
1C0 906 032
06A 906 032 LS (notes - 6spd manual)
06A 906 032 QA (notes - 6spd manual)
US Market Audi
1997-1999 A4: AEB
8D0 907 559
8D0 907 557 P
8D0 997 557 HX
8D0 997 559 CX (notes - auto)
2000 A4: ATW
4B0 997 020 X
4B0 997 020 AX
4B0 997 020 BX (notes - auto)
4B0 997 020 CX (notes - auto)
2001 A4: AWM
4B0 997 019 NX
4B0 997 020 EX
2002 A4: AMB
8E0 909 518 F
8E0 909 518 G (notes - auto)
TT: AJQ
8L0 906 018 J (notes - Quattro)
8N0 997 018 BX (notes - Quattro)
8N0 997 018 DX (notes - FWD)
8N0 997 018 EX (notes - Quattro)
8N0 997 019 AX (notes - FWD)
TT: APX
8L0 997 018 DX
8N0 997 018 CX
8N0 997 018 FX
8N0 997 018 KX
TT: AUQ,ARY
8L0 997 018 CX
8L0 997 018 EX
8N0 906 018 AQ
8N0 906 018 BR (notes - FWD, manual)
8N0 906 018 CN (notes - auto)
8N0 906 018 CR (notes - Quattro, manual)
8N0 997 019 RX
8N0 997 019 SX
8N0 997 020 FX (notes - FWD, manual)
8N0 997 020 RX (notes - manual)
8N0 997 020 TX (notes - Quattro)
8N0 997 020 SX
8N0 997 020 QX (notes - auto)
TT: BAM
8N0 906 018 CG
8N0 906 018 H
8N0 997 018 PX
8N0 997 018 TX
TT: APP
8N0 997 018 HX (notes - APP)
TT: AUM
8N0 906 018 AP
8N0 997 019 X
8N0 997 020 EX
ME7/7.5 Software
Learn about ME7
Learn about ME7 (part2)
Wideband ECU power requirements (different from Narrowband)
Narrowband -> Wideband conversion harness
* If you have a narrowband o2 sensor, you'll want to convert to wideband so you can use the much better and more advanced wideband files made by all the major software companies. They are more powerful, smoother, and give you more options.
jwalker's wideband conversion thread
2001 Transport's wideband conversion thread
Injector FAQ
* Cross references injectors with available software
2-Step
...explanation of 2-step
WOT Shifting
...explanation of WOT shifting
Tweaking ME7/7.5
Lemmiwinks Guide
Standalone
* Vipec
Vipec knowledge dump for 1.8t
* Autronic
* 034 EFI
* ....
Electrical
Good sources for aftermarket wiring
* Waytek
* Wiringproducts.com
* Grainger
* Amazon/ Ebay
* Sonic Electronix
* Fastenal
* McMaster-Carr
How to build a beefy replacement for the mk4 fuse box that is on top of the battery
mk4 alternator wire/ fuse problem
* read this if you 'appear' to have alternator problems
How to get an RPM signal for use in gauges, standalone systems, controllers, etc
Building a replacement for the stock fuse distribution block on top of the battery
How to build a replacement B+ wire from parts at your local auto parts store
Adding After Market Electronics Safely
Relays - Hella relays are recommended. Use only sealed relays if installing under hood.
Fuses - Always !!! add an appropriate fuse to aftermarket accessories. Set the fuse rating to about 50% more current than the device is expected to pull. Again, if installing under the hood use a sealed weatherproof fuse. Fuses are generally not very fast acting (from an electrical point of view) but good enough to prevent you from melting wire and whatnot in case of device malfunction or short circuit.
Circuit Breakers - This is an optional accessory that can be added in front of the fuse, generally connected very close to the battery. I recommend rating this to 200% of your expected current output. The reason I like to use circuit breakers is it protects you from short circuits. In case of short circuit it will trip the circuit breaker immediately before your fuses blow. When you fix the wiring fault, the circuit breaker will auto-reset.
On that note, you want a Type 1 circuit breaker. Type 1 circuit breakers will auto reset (aka cycle) when the wiring fault is removed.
Type 2 circuit breakers require you to remove power from the circuit breaker to reset it, then you can reconnect power. I think this is very inconvenient for most situations.
I generally use a combination of fuses and circuit breakers to make a robust solution.
Wire
Wire needs to be sized to the job. This is the responsibility of the wire gauge. Also, wire can handle very high currents for very short periods of time. You size the wire so that it can handle the constant load + 100% for safety margin. Also, it takes a thicker wire to handle the same load over a longer run.
eg. According to the chart below, we can use 12AWG wire to handle a 15A load for 8.5 feet. If we had a 12 foot run we would want to step up to 10AWG wire instead.
Sizing wire to the current and distance load
Insulation material must be taken into consideration. If you are mounting this under hood, you want to have a chemical and abrasion resistant insulation material that will stand up to continuous over 200F temperatures.
Core material should generally always be copper. There are very few reasons to use aluminum wire. It has higher resistance, breaks easier, but IS LIGHTER and CHEAPER. In other words, just stick with copper. It's better, lol.
Crimps
When you crimp something, use the proper tool. Crimps must have the proper shape in order to have good reliability and strength. In an automotive environment, solder is not a replacement for crimps. Solder can break with vibrations. Crimps are strong mechanical connections. However, soldering crimps is a wonderful idea if you are willing to take this extra step.
Tape
Electrical Tape - Use Scotch 33 or 88 tape for all automotive electrical tape needs. They stand up to temperature without getting gooey, they stretch better, they don't harden up over time, and they have thicker backings so they are stronger than average tape. Scotch 88 has a thicker backing than Scotch 33.
Friction Tape - This is an excellent tape to wrap a wire bundle that you want to add abrasive protection to. I recommend 3M Temflex Cotton Friction Tape.
Splicing Tape - This tape is not very sticky to most things, but is stretchy as can be and bonds securely to itself. This is a great tape to seal something up with. I recommend Scotch 23.
If you want to wrap a wire bundle I recommend wrapping it with splicing tape to seal it up from the elements then wrap that in friction tape to protect it.
If you want to connect multiple bundles the old fashioned way you can learn to lace the wire. This is done using lacing tape. If you don't want to do it old school, use your electrical tape and tape them together every 8 or so inches.
Heat Shrink
This is a very professional way to seal and protect wires. This is sold in adhesive and non-adhesive styles. In 2:1 shrink and 4:1 shrink. In various colors, diameters, and thicknesses.
I recommend Raychem. That heat shrink is by far the highest quality I've worked with. 3M is a close second. Many of the other brands seem to have far less abrasion resistance than I like.
All of the electronic valves in the car that are directly controlled by the ECU are switched 'low side'. This means the ECU connects ground to that device in order to complete the circuit.
SAI
This is a three part system designed to speed up catalytic converter warm up time.
DELETE: If you delete any part of this system you will get a "SAI improper flow" code due to the computer not seeing expected output from the oxygen sensors when the SAI pump should be running. In order to remove this code you must get it 'coded out' in software. If you do not code out you will get a check engine light but will not have any performance detriments.
The most common reasons to delete is due to a failing expensive component or for hose simplification in the engine bay.
1) Combi valve on the side of the head. This is a vacuum operated valve that allows the SAI air pump to 'push' air into the exhaust ports. Vacuum is controlled by the N112. There is a small (~3/4") hole drilled across the head that connects all four exhaust ports.
If you delete the combi valve you must plug this port with a block off plate that properly seals itself against the head.
2) SAI air pump. This is an electric air pump that sucks air in from the the intake tract. Air comes after the air filter but before the MAF, so it is unmetered air. The electrical connection for this pump is driven by a relay, not directly by the computer. The relay is driven by ECU pin 66.
If you delete the SAI air pump it does not need to be resistored.
3) N112 Valve. This is a electric pneumatic valve that controls vacuum to the Combi Valve. It pulls vacuum directly from the intake manifold. The electrical connection is driven directly by the ECU on pin 9.
If you delete the N112 Valve you must replace it with a 1W 330 ohm resistor. If you do not resistor it you will get a code plus you will not get fuel trims (block 32)
N249 Valve
Discussion about removing the N249
This electric pneumatic valve controls the Diverter Valve by controlling vacuum and pressure. It also connects to the vacuum reservoir on top of the valve cover so that the diver valve can be opened when there is no vacuum present in the intake manifold.
If you delete this you must replace it with a 330ohm 1W resistor. Furthermore, you must run a vacuum line from the intake manifold to your diverter valve. If you don't resistor this you will throw a code, but your fuel trims will still adapt.
Summary
Pulled from
here
Keeping the N249 smooths out coming off throttle transitions to a minor degree.
Keeping the N249 allows a bit faster respool (to a minor degree) during gear changes
Removing the N249 removes the vacuum canister and a fair amount of vacuum hoses (in addition to removing the N249).
If you remove the N249 you must resistor in order to keep fuel trims
The N249 can open only under a negative pedal position slope. No other condition will cause the N249 to open.
A negative pedal position slope does not necessarily mean the N249 will open under all circumstances.
The N249 will not protect against overboost.
----------------------------------------------------------------
All N249 Logic can be seen
here in the official Bosch Logic Diagrams.
The operation of the N249 can be seen
here. When the LED turns on that is the N249 activating. The boost gauge is manifold pressure.
You can see the entire system working
here. This shows RPM, Throttle Body Position, Charge Pipe Pressure, Intake Manifold Pressure, MAF flow (g/s), MAF voltage (1v is zero flow)
"The N249 provides for the ECU to open the DV even if the intake manifold pressure is positve above ambient air pressure. The reason for doing this is to reduce pumping losses while at light load cruise, and other conditions, to increase fuel economy. The other reason for having the ability, is to dump excessive boost if the wastegate fails closed."
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...l-economy.html.
http://s4wiki.com/wiki/N249
Manifold Actual Pressure Sensor
aka MAP
Shows actual pressure of charge pipe
Stock MAP is 2.5 bar absolute. Stock max range of absolute pressure is 2550 mbar / 22.5 PSI.
Stock MAP - Small orifice - PN: 038906051B
* AWW or AWP engine codes from model year 2002+
Stock MAP - Large orifice - PN: 038906051
4 bar absolute MAP: PN: 0281006059
* This is a euro spec part for cars such as the 2010 VW AMAROK 2.0 TDI. Only use this MAP sensor if your tune calls for it.
* Uses the small orifice design, same as the AWW/AWP fitment
Coil Pack Harness
How to test coil pack harness (for 4-wire coil packs)
Water Temp Sensor
aka CTS
aka Coolant Temperature Sensor
Reprogram Cluster to show REAL temperature
Another link showing how to make your gauge read the true value
The stock cluster on our cars has a big dead spot around 190F. I think anything from around 76C-106C (168F - 222F) or so will register as 88C (190F). This is to give the general public the warm fuzzies that their car is at the perfect temperature all the time. But for people who really want to know what's going on, it's akin to a sharp stick in the eye. This mod will allow you to use your in-cluster water temp sensor to show you the REAL temperature.
These original came in a black color. The later, improved model is green on top, aka Green Top.
If you were to pull the connector and have the flat side on your left - like a "D" - then the pins are numbered:
upper left - pin #1
lower left - pin #2
upper right - pin #3
lower right - pin #4
You can measure the resistance between pin 3 and 4 to get an approximate temperature.
0°C/32°F - 5000 to 6500 ohms
10°C/50°F - 3500 to 4500 ohms
20°C/68°F - 2250 to 3000 ohms
30°C/86°F - 1500 to 2000 ohms
40°C/104°F - 1000 to 1500 ohms
50°C/122°F - 700 to 1000 ohms
60°C/140°F - 525 to 650 ohms
70°C/158°F - 375 to 500 ohms
80°C/176°F - 275 to 375 ohms
90°C/194°F - 200 to 275 ohms
100°C/212°F - 150 to 225 ohms
N80 Valve
This electric pneumatic valve and charcoal filter diverts fuel vapor from the gas tank into the intake manifold. This is for emissions purposes. This is known as part of the EVAP system.
If you delete this you must replace it with a 330 ohm 1W resistor or you won't get fuel adaptations.
N75 Valve
This electric pneumatic valve controls boost pressure to the turbo wastegate.
If you delete this you must replace it with a 330 ohm 1W resistor. Furthermore, you need to use some other means to control the turbo boost pressure. If you don't resistor this you will get a code, but your fuel adaptations will work.
Crank Position Sensor
This sensor tells the engine how fast the motor is turning. In other words, you can directly correlate the pulses from this sensor into RPM's. The crank position sensor wheel has ___???____ windows per revolution.
Diagnosing the Crank Sensor:
When the crank sensor fails and causes an out-of-sync situation with the ECU the ECU cuts response to the throttle in order to prevent major engine damage. This throttle cut generally happens within a certain RPM range.
Another symptom you may also notice is that your tach (RPM) gauge hangs at a higher rev even though the car's speed is slowing. This symptom is due to the throttle being restricted by the ECU, as previously described.
Yet another symptom is the car wont start on cranking. This is because the ECU cannot determine how fast the crank is rotating due to the failed or failing crank sensor. This problem is further exacerbated by the electrical interference the starter is throwing out as you are cranking the engine which further confuses the ECU. This starting symptom is commonly incorrectly diagnosed as a failing starter throwing out extra electrical interference. However, this is rarely the case and is simply a failing or failed crank position sensor.
If the sensor is fine the problem can be mechanical. The crank position wheel is attached to the crankshaft via press fit and then secured with a screw. The screw can come loose, the screw can fall out, or the screw can shear off. Also, during old maintenance on the car the wheel can be bent by a careless mechanic which can throw off the crank balance a bit, increase the likelihood of the screw problem previously mentioned, or simply confuse the crank position sensor. This mechanical problem is typically not seen on cars turning stock RPM's (under 7500) and stock displacements. It is far more common on stroker setups or setups that turn high RPM's (over 7500). Both of these setups cause increased vibrations on the crank and in turn, put more stress on this crank position wheel. The fix for this problem if you are building a high RPM or stroker setup is to tack weld the screw in place or fully weld the entire position wheel in place.
You can get a replacement crank sensor for $20 online. It's a cheap fix for a big problem.
Fuel Pump
Controlled by the 409 relay under the dash. Battery side is pin 30. Fuel pump side is pin 87.
Pin 87 and 30 are the two 'big' pins in the relay
Relays and Major Fuses
See here for images
--Under Dash--
Above the '75x' terminal, relay 53 - Dual Tone Horn Relay
Above the '30' terminals, relay 100 - Current Supply Relay
Above the '30a' terminal, empty on a 1.8t
Above the '87f' terminal, relay 409 - Fuel Pump and o2 sensors
Next to 409 relay, empty on certain models - Wash/Wipe Relay
Above and to the left of the 53 relay, relay 173 - Not sure of function???
--Relay box on firewall, on driver's side--
Relay 428 - ECU switched power
Relay 100 - Not sure of function???
--Fuse box on top of battery--
From left to right when you open the fuse cover
1) Generator aka Alternator
2) Interior Relay Panel
3) Cooling Fans and Control Module
4) Fuel Pump or Glow Plugs
5) Secondary Air or Coolant Pre-Heating
6) Cooling Fans
7) ABS
8) ABS Pump
MKIV FUSE LIST
1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 > (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
14. Interior lights, central locking system (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
16. A/C clutch, after-run coolant pump (10A).
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A).
36. Fog lights (15A).
37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).
43. Engine control elements (10A) including front and rear o2 sensor heaters
44. Heated seats (15A).
Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery:
S162. Glow plugs (coolant) (50A).
S163. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A).
S164. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A).
S176. Relays panel interior (110A).
S177. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp.) (110A).
Generator (GEN) (120 Amp.) (150A).
S178. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A).
S179. ABS (30A).
S180. Coolant fan (30A).
Oxygen Senors
aka: o2 sensors
See "Oxygen Sensors"
FAQ - How to check 12V sources and Grounds
Example of checking engine bay grounds on a TT - Mk4 is very similar.
How to test for parasitic drain
Fabricate a test lamp consisting of a 12v lightbulb, socket, wiring, and alligator clips. With the battery fully charged, disconnect the positive cable and connect the test lamp between the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable. If you have a parasitic drain, the lightbulb should be brightly lit.
Starting at the main fuse panel on the top of the battery, disconnect the fused red wiring one-by-one. When the lightbulb goes out (off), you've found the circuit causing the problem. If this circuit feeds the interior fuse panel located to the left side of the dashboard, reconnect the wire and start removing fuses one-by-one until the light goes out.
Hint, the wiring leads should be long enough for the lightbulb to reach the interior of the car so that you can observe it when you start removing fuses.
Engine Codes
Large list of engine codes and details
1.8t (and other) engines info
Block Codes
- 06A
* Came on 1.8t's with transverse arrangements (eg. golf, TT, jetta, Beetle Turbo, seat leon cupra R, A/S3, etc)
- 058
* Came on 1.8t's with longitudional arrangements (eg. Passat, A4, etc)
Head Codes
- AQA
- ARZ
- AUM = AUQ
* Very similar to AWP engine
- AUM
* TT225
* 20mm Wrist Pins
- AWP
* Wideband
* Small port
* w/ SAI provisions
* Came with VVT
* Wideband
* Late model = valve cover vent is 25mm OD
* Early model (>= 2002) = valve cover vent is 20mm OD
- AWW
* Small port
* w/ SAI
* Past -> Early '01 was narrowband, Late '01 -> Present was wideband
- ADR
* Big Port
- ADL
Is the European version of the AEB engine code. The main difference is that it came in a mixture of big port and small port configurations. Was released exclusively in a longitudinal engine.
- AJL
* Big Port
- AEB
* Big Port
* No port for combi valve
- AGU
* Big Port
Cross Section of an AEB
Special thanks to Speeding-G60
More AEB cross sections
15
AT_HOAT_Hybrid_Silicates_Phosphates_Glycerin.pdf[/url] Great Article by ECS Tuning all about VW/ Audi Coolant Systems[/url]
