Re: (Dana @ Ross-Tech)
Ok well long story, I replaced the distributor with hall sensor and it does not have any silly mark on the housing. I checked the cam and crank timing and it was indeed off a tooth somehow, lol, don't know if it jumped or what. Anyways corrected that, and put both at the zero, and noted exactly where that is on distributor. It lines up with the center of the spark plug wire so I know its pretty accurate. Still get the code, tried new ignition coil someone suggested just connected it up and still get the code. I noticed my middle ignition wire just pulls out of the connector is this normal, lol. I don't think this would throw that code though! This is crazy. Car runs a little better but still misses quite a bit and is weak.
Previiously, when it would throw that code, but was still close, it would run perfect just throw the code.
I wish I knew what exactly it does to sense this code. I know the sensor works now, I know everything is timed up, and I have rotated and manipulated the distributor around where cylinder 1 is. If its that close it would run perfectly, just throw code. It still doesn't run right so something else is wrong. But why the P0341?
At least now when I pull the MAF it responds by hesitating, which it did not before. But if I pull the knock sensor connector its supposed to retard the engine 12 degrees. I don't know if that's at idol or what. Either way it doesn't seem to be doing it, or maybe it is? I monitor ignition timing on cylinder 1 and its 12 at idol and goes up as you rev engine, but not that high. I have a tacoma that I was monitoring and it went up to nearly 45 degrees car goes to like 22. At higher rpms like 3000.
Since knock sensor directly affects timing, suspicious of it. I'm about out of ideas though this is insanity. It is indeed an old car, 350k miles on it. But it ran perfectly before and now it acts like this. And it only does it when its hot not cold, seems to have good power then, really wierd. Yes I have checked the coolant temp and intake air temp in vag cam everything checks out good.
No easy way to test knock sensor, I think its sending out the MV signal but who knows exactly if its right or not. Would it even throw a code, I don't know.
About out of ideas. I'm pretty sure the ECU doesn't use only the cam sensor to throw that code. I can rotate distributor, with the cam sensor disconnected, up to 90 degrees and the car will still run. That's much more than the contact surface of the distributor rotor and little post that goes to the wires and cylinders. Somehow it determines its not making contact and advanes or retards timing. It must fire the spark super fast or maybe use the knocking to figure out if cylinder is firing. I dunno! Crazy thing
Thanks
