[Budgeezer]

I have reviewed most of the aftermarket clutch threads and am looking for a solution to clutch creep. I had a Spec 3+ with the SM steel fly wheel installed with my turbo build along with the NLS shim kit. We are about 700 miles in and I am experiencing clutch creep in reverse and 1st. Could it be a faulty throw out bearing (a new OEM was installed with the clutch)? Once in a while the car will get locked in reverse, it will release is the clutch is fully disengaged or your turn off the car.

Any ideas for a solution. I'll have the throw bearing replaced if need be, but I wanted to see how other have address this issue.

TIA

 

[kometmotor]

I am also looking for a solution to this. I have gone through several TOB/slave cylinders and this latest one is giving me this problem as well. (1.8T w/ 02M 6 speed). Reverse and first gear issues only. Hard to get into first sometimes and I have to double pump the clutch. System has been bled many times. Have run several different fluids with no change in symptoms. New master cylinder installed as well.

 

[waabaah]

NLS shim kit

 

[Budgeezer]

Already have the NLS shim installed.!
sent from my phone

 

[GLI_DRIVER]

The NLS clutch shims fixed my clutch creep/hard to get into gear/stuck in reverse BS. I have a spec stage 1 with a steel FW.

 

[Hybrid20v]

I also have this same issue with a Southbend stage 3 endurance. Did not notice the issue until after a 2000 mile road trip. And about 6000 miles on the car since install of the clutch

I also have the NLS shim kit in my car.

If I double pump the clutch I can get it out of first or reverse.

I have checked the PP bolts and they are all tight.

 

[specialkane7]

NLS shim kit. 2500 miles and still no issue:thumbup:

 

[BOUDAH]

I also have this same issue with a Southbend stage 3 endurance. Did not notice the issue until after a 2000 mile road trip. And about 6000 miles on the car since install of the clutch

I also have the NLS shim kit in my car.

If I double pump the clutch I can get it out of first or reverse.

I have checked the PP bolts and they are all tight.

Joe, just out of curiosity, are you on the OEM trans, if so how many miles? Also, do these clutches require a Clitch pedal stop w or w/o that NLS shim which both you and the OP have. The reason im asking is becuase i had the exact same problem with an OEM clutch and steel flyweel. when i dropped my trans , I noticed that the input shaft had about an inch of IN and OUT play. OEM tolerances alow it to move slightly but no where near that much. I will see if i cant find the video i made of it.

Im thinking that perhaps with an oem clutch and Dual mass flywheel, the DM, hides some of these symtpoms until you swap in a new clutch w/ a solid steel flywheel. My input shaft was basically ****ed. I installed a DRP trans and the input shaft is rock solid.

Something to look into to avoid imediately buying a new clutch for XXX thousand dollars.

Food for Thought

-Ellery

 

[Hybrid20v]

Joe, just out of curiosity, are you on the OEM trans, if so how many miles? Also, do these clutches require a Clitch pedal stop w or w/o that NLS shim which both you and the OP have. The reason im asking is becuase i had the exact same problem with an OEM clutch and steel flyweel. when i dropped my trans , I noticed that the input shaft had about an inch of IN and OUT play. OEM tolerances alow it to move slightly but no where near that much. I will see if i cant find the video i made of it.

Im thinking that perhaps with an oem clutch and Dual mass flywheel, the DM, hides some of these symtpoms until you swap in a new clutch w/ a solid steel flywheel. My input shaft was basically ****ed. I installed a DRP trans and the input shaft is rock solid.

Something to look into to avoid imediately buying a new clutch for XXX thousand dollars.

Food for Thought

-Ellery

Ellery,

I think my trans is the original trans so it has 105k on it. I will be pulling the trans on my next vacation I will look at this. I will prob have to check the "Shims" in the trans and end play. See if this solves the problem.

I am just surprised that with the car being as old as it is and the aftermarket clutch being out for so long no one has ever really come up with an answer to this problem

Joe

 

[R32.DEVIANT]

I am just surprised that with the car being as old as it is and the aftermarket clutch being out for so long no one has ever really come up with an answer to this problem

Joe

The problem is the SMF clutch wasn`t designed properly in the first place.

 

[BOUDAH]

The problem is the SMF clutch wasn`t designed properly in the first place.

but everyone has the problem... or atleast ALOT of people have the issue with Single Mass flywheels or otherwise. I know some people with no issues. Im almost willing to bet my thoughts could be a cause of a problem. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Budgeezer]

I am just surprised that with the car being as old as it is and the aftermarket clutch being out for so long no one has ever really come up with an answer to this problem

Joe

Agreed.

I did quite a bit of research before going FI and had contacted a few others that had the same clutch set up (Spec 3+) most indicated that the clutch was good and they did not have any creep issues. I thought with the shim I was being proactive and hoped that I wouldn't have any issues with creep. Unfortunately that was not the case. I am starting to wonder if keep the DM flywheel might have been the better option.

 

[BOUDAH]

I actually swapped back to the OEM flywheel myself.

 

[R32.DEVIANT]

but everyone has the problem... or atleast ALOT of people have the issue with Single Mass flywheels or otherwise. I know some people with no issues. Im almost willing to bet my thoughts could be a cause of a problem. Just my 2 cents.

Not heard of people getting this problem with Sachs or Helix clutches which are well proven and tested here in the UK and Europe.

 

[Budgeezer]

Not heard of people getting this problem with Sachs or Helix clutches which are well proven and tested here in the UK and Europe.

Wish I had done a little more research and known that prior to my build. Good info, thanks.

 

[R32.DEVIANT]

I am surprised anyone recommended a Spec 3+ for a FI build as they tend to fall to bit like the one that was sold with the Blackjack kit buy HPA which lasted about two months in my car.

 

[Arizman3]

I am surprised anyone recommended a Spec 3+ for a FI build as they tend to fall to bit like the one that was sold with the Blackjack kit buy HPA which lasted about two months in my car.

I have HPA's clutch / flywheel kit now in for two years and it's holding up nicely, no creep, no slippage. Granted I'm FT400 with 434 hp and only 377 torque. The clutch engages and grabs nicely. Only problems I have are fueling and 02 sensor problems which is forcing me into another upgrade.

 

[Budgeezer]

I am surprised anyone recommended a Spec 3+ for a FI build as they tend to fall to bit like the one that was sold with the Blackjack kit buy HPA which lasted about two months in my car.

Bought the Spec with my kit from HPA...

 

[BOUDAH]

I am surprised anyone recommended a Spec 3+ for a FI build as they tend to fall to bit like the one that was sold with the Blackjack kit buy HPA which lasted about two months in my car.

Michael you produce like 150 more HP than the 20th kit, lol

 

[R32.DEVIANT]

Bought the Spec with my kit from HPA...

HPA sell Spec clutches which they claim they modified specially for them. There was a supercharged Audi A3 getting a Spec 3+ fitted at the same time that was bought direct from Spec. Both clutches had the same numbers stamped on them and looked exactly the same.....