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I wonder if there's any chance of finding someone from Southern California to do this for me? I'm considering taking my car with me when returning to Europe next year but I don't have the tools or facilities to do the swap myself. :(
 

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I wonder if there's any chance of finding someone from Southern California to do this for me? I'm considering taking my car with me when returning to Europe next year but I don't have the tools or facilities to do the swap myself. :(
I’d give you a hand if you were in New England. Was very easy to do!


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I have all the stuff to do it for over a month now. The lights and harness from Germany but I’m scared I’m gonna **** it up. I guess I’ll just start and follow the pics and instructions and hope for the best.


Kurt
 

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I have all the stuff to do it for over a month now. The lights and harness from Germany but I’m scared I’m gonna **** it up. I guess I’ll just start and follow the pics and instructions and hope for the best.


Kurt
It’s really straight forward. The hardest part is going through the flexible tube between the car and the trunk. Buy some extra long zip ties and that works pretty well. Otherwise, all the routing is pretty easy. I did my wife’s Tiguan about a month ago and my R about a year ago.


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It’s really straight forward. The hardest part is going through the flexible tube between the car and the trunk. Buy some extra long zip ties and that works pretty well. Otherwise, all the routing is pretty easy. I did my wife’s Tiguan about a month ago and my R about a year ago.


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Any advice for removing all the panels? That’s what scares me the most.


Kurt
 

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Take off the top piece and the two side trim pieces first. Go slowly. If you’re familiar with the spring clips they take a bit of force to get out. Next go for the main panel. Release this panel symmetrically across the car, make sure to start on the bottom closer to where the light/button (SEL/P) so you can release the harnesses. With the car portion, take off the top and side portions of the rear hatch gasket (car side). This will give you good access for wiring. I used a coat hanger (bent properly to not scratch the car) to fish the wire from the tail light up through the panel. Then zip ties through the flexible tube. I would honestly use the tutorial in this thread as much as possible. He’s done a great job. Be very cautious when removing the one side of the flexible hose. That’s probably the hardest part of the job. Be neat and use lots of zip ties. If you got your harness from Zero815, it should fit like a glove. Oh and before you even start, familiarize yourself with the harness light hookup so you’re not wasting time trying to figure that out while the cars apart.


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Discussion Starter #29
Harness light hookup? What do you mean? And thanks for the tips!


Kurt
Just look over the harness from ZERO815 and make sure you see how they clip together, and clip to the factory harness. Careful on the small harness connectors, if they clip solid together they are hard to undue so make sure you clip them in when ready (there's a tiny little punch hole that you need to push in to release the small clips if you do and it will come apart).

Follow the guide as much as you can. The accordion grommet is the toughest part as suggested but once the roof liner is dropped down you should be able to see underneath and how to unclip at least the bottom portion of the grommet, the top (hatch side) you can leave connected if you want. You won't screw things up its honestly pretty straight forward but just take your time.
 

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Just look over the harness from ZERO815 and make sure you see how they clip together, and clip to the factory harness. Careful on the small harness connectors, if they clip solid together they are hard to undue so make sure you clip them in when ready (there's a tiny little punch hole that you need to push in to release the small clips if you do and it will come apart).

Follow the guide as much as you can. The accordion grommet is the toughest part as suggested but once the roof liner is dropped down you should be able to see underneath and how to unclip at least the bottom portion of the grommet, the top (hatch side) you can leave connected if you want. You won't screw things up its honestly pretty straight forward but just take your time.
He actually labeled all the connectors for me on the harness. They say “right inner. Left inner etc”. That’s pretty cool. Thanks.

One more thing. I have Scandinavian DRL activates. I should deactivate those before coding I assume?

Thanks guys for the help.


Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #31
He actually labeled all the connectors for me on the harness. They say “right inner. Left inner etc”. That’s pretty cool. Thanks.

One more thing. I have Scandinavian DRL activates. I should deactivate those before coding I assume?

Thanks guys for the help.


Kurt
Hey Kurt, I had the same. It did mess them up a bit after coding with the new requirements but I did work around it later by changing a couple options that ZERO815 helped me out with. If you're dead set on it, do the coding as instructed and if something doesn't quite work let him know and he'll help you though it. I think it was as simple as changing a couple of channels that were set as day time running lights (Tagfahrlicht) but because the new lights and harness are effectively moving some of those around the left over Scandi coding was wrong for the new european setup. However, I also did some other changes to personalize my lights so you actually might be okay. Give it a try and see what happens.

This is the instruction I got from ZERO815 that helped me troubleshoot fixing my coding:
"Please double check Leuchte16 and Leuchte17 coding. I guess Lichtfunktion B/C/D/E/F 16/17 contains Tagfahrlicht/DRL. All lines should be as in my pdf. Only Lichtfunktion A as Blinken links(left) or rechts(right) Hellphase(Turn signal on) active, the rest needs to be not active."

Good luck!
 

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Hey Kurt, I had the same. It did mess them up a bit after coding with the new requirements but I did work around it later by changing a couple options that ZERO815 helped me out with. If you're dead set on it, do the coding as instructed and if something doesn't quite work let him know and he'll help you though it. I think it was as simple as changing a couple of channels that were set as day time running lights (Tagfahrlicht) but because the new lights and harness are effectively moving some of those around the left over Scandi coding was wrong for the new european setup. However, I also did some other changes to personalize my lights so you actually might be okay. Give it a try and see what happens.

This is the instruction I got from ZERO815 that helped me troubleshoot fixing my coding:
"Please double check Leuchte16 and Leuchte17 coding. I guess Lichtfunktion B/C/D/E/F 16/17 contains Tagfahrlicht/DRL. All lines should be as in my pdf. Only Lichtfunktion A as Blinken links(left) or rechts(right) Hellphase(Turn signal on) active, the rest needs to be not active."

Good luck!



Kurt
 

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Thanks [mention]mattchatr [/mention] and [mention]ZERO815 [/mention] for the write up with pics, wiring harness and answering all my questions. I’m stoked!!






Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Is there a link to order the adapter? Those look REALLY good.


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Search for ZERO815 user on this forum and PM him for details. He's not a sponsor so can't advertise pricing or otherwise.
 

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Another happy customer...

Just a quick thank you to @ZERO815 for speedy production and delivery of the harness plus all the email support over the last week or so... and to @mattchatr for his writeup on the EU tail lights retrofit and very useful pictures.

It all went smoothly apart from myself not doing my homework correctly and getting a set of UK (LHD) tail lights, that don't have a fog light (which I legally need over here) :p So after a couple of hours of playing with ODB11 and coding and email exchange with @ZERO815 he asked "Do you have a fog light in there at all?" :-D Fortunately, I was able to get an inner left one quite cheaply on a local auction site, 3 minutes swap, and now I have a fully operational set of EU tail lights on an MQB NA Tiguan.


One question though. I noticed that my new fog light goes off when I switch high beams on. This feels strange for me. I would like to have the foglight on when I am in a limited visibility situation and there's noone in front allowing me to ue high beams. Is this a normal setup? I am going to see if I can make it stay but maybe someone has already figured it out?
 

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Another happy customer...

Just a quick thank you to @ZERO815 for speedy production and delivery of the harness plus all the email support over the last week or so... and to @mattchatr for his writeup on the EU tail lights retrofit and very useful pictures.

It all went smoothly apart from myself not doing my homework correctly and getting a set of UK (LHD) tail lights, that don't have a fog light (which I legally need over here) :p So after a couple of hours of playing with ODB11 and coding and email exchange with @ZERO815 he asked "Do you have a fog light in there at all?" :-D Fortunately, I was able to get an inner left one quite cheaply on a local auction site, 3 minutes swap, and now I have a fully operational set of EU tail lights on an MQB NA Tiguan.


One question though. I noticed that my new fog light goes off when I switch high beams on. This feels strange for me. I would like to have the foglight on when I am in a limited visibility situation and there's noone in front allowing me to ue high beams. Is this a normal setup? I am going to see if I can make it stay but maybe someone has already figured it out?
A stab in the dark here, but in Europe the headlight switch is different with 2 positions for fogs, first pull is front fogs, pull again for rear fog, did you install this? If you didn't and and are using the NA switch (with just one pull for front fogs) and then wired in/coded the rear fog to work with the front fogs then the fogs turning off when engaging high-beams is expected as the front fogs will do this on all vehicles. In Europe with the two stage/pull switch, I believe the rear fog stays on but front fogs are disabled. It's been a few years since I had my mk4 GTi (in the UK) but I believe this is what happened on mine (front fogs off with HB, rear fog stayed on when turned on).
 

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A stab in the dark here, but in Europe the headlight switch is different with 2 positions for fogs, first pull is front fogs, pull again for rear fog, did you install this? If you didn't and and are using the NA switch (with just one pull for front fogs) and then wired in/coded the rear fog to work with the front fogs then the fogs turning off when engaging high-beams is expected as the front fogs will do this on all vehicles. In Europe with the two stage/pull switch, I believe the rear fog stays on but front fogs are disabled. It's been a few years since I had my mk4 GTi (in the UK) but I believe this is what happened on mine (front fogs off with HB, rear fog stayed on when turned on).
Hi. Yes. I did change the light switch to one with 2 positions for front and rear fog lights. Also coded it properly.
 
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