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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Go to the last page for recent pics!

Hey all!

I thought I'd drop into this forum and introduce myself. I am a new owner of a 2013 Golf R, slated for delivery in about 30 days. Signed the deal on September 29th so let's see what happens!

I'm very excited to get this puppy because:

1.) My first VW
2.) My first 'new' car

I plan to do some mods on it in the future but right now, I'm going to enjoy the great stock action and do a proper 'break-in'.

I was skeptical of getting a Volkswagen because of the electrical gremlins but when I test-drove the GTi with the DSG today, I immediately was in love with everything and threw down my order for an R.

So stay tuned and perhaps, all of you wizards will teach me the VW way as I started with a Mitsubishi and know my car inside and out.

I will definitely be asking about engine mods, chip tuning, etc. etc.

For now, here are the mods I had in mind (As of Nov 14, 2012):

- Stage 1 ECU flash (Done by Concept1 using APR; Oct 19, 2012)
- Soundaktor Delete (Feb. 9, 2013)
- Stage 1+ with high pressure fuel pump upgrade
- Titanium vs. Stainless Steel exhaust system
- Carbonio vs. Volkswagen Racing Intake
- LED tail lights (Installed)
- Interior improvements (Gauge cluster, carbon fiber trim, new shifter/short shift kit maybe)
- Haldex Competiton Controller (Installed)
- H&R Sport Springs (Installed)
- 19x8.5 Volk LE37 ET35/Hankook V12 235/35/19 with fender screw mod (Summer setup)

Enjoy this thread and see what transpires! ;)

- Don
 

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Of the four VWs I've owned so far, 3 of which were MK5+, the only thing I would classify as remotely electrical gremlin-esque was a driver's side door lock on my R32 that would randomly keep locking itself over and over after the first lock. It was replaced under warranty and never happened again. I know that older VWs definitely have some gremlins, but I don't think you have much to worry about in a modern one.

That said, if you plan to do any diagnostics or logging or changes to modules not available via the MFD, grab VCDS (was VAG-COM) and a cable from Ross Tech. It is invaluable and pays for itself quickly, especially if you end up getting more VWs in the future.

(sent via mobile)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Of the four VWs I've owned so far, 3 of which were MK5+, the only thing I would classify as remotely electrical gremlin-esque was a driver's side door lock on my R32 that would randomly keep locking itself over and over after the first lock. It was replaced under warranty and never happened again. I know that older VWs definitely have some gremlins, but I don't think you have much to worry about in a modern one.

That said, if you plan to do any diagnostics or logging or changes to modules not available via the MFD, grab VCDS (was VAG-COM) and a cable from Ross Tech. It is invaluable and pays for itself quickly, especially if you end up getting more VWs in the future.

(sent via mobile)
That's good to hear. I was a bit leery at first, especially since a good friend of mine had a mid-2000's Jetta and her window would roll down at exactly 61kph. Not 60 or if you pass it at 62; 61 on the dot.

I have to learn about this VAG-COM dealie. Is it just a diagnostic machine or like a codebook? I naively called it 'vahge-com' and not 'vahg-com' during the sales pitch and we got snickers.


Thanks!

Congratulations on the purchase. Hope all goes well. :thumbup:

Where's the future MOD list? :p
Here's to a great future! Lol I guess that would help, right? :facepalm:

Will edit original thread and if any one has ideas, feel free to throw 'em in and see what happens. :wave:
 

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I have to learn about this VAG-COM dealie. Is it just a diagnostic machine or like a codebook? I naively called it 'vahge-com' and not 'vahg-com' during the sales pitch and we got snickers.
It's an OBD2 cable with built-in authentication stuff in it that provides you with a sort of physical license to use the VCDS software, if that makes sense. It's like those hardware dongles they used to require to run 3D modelling software way back when. It lets you communicate with the various electronic components and modules in the car to do things you can't really do any other way without going to a dealer.

For example, if you want to get LED tails like they get in Europe, you have to make some code changes to the Central Electronics module or else you'll get bulb-out warnings (LEDs having lower resistance than the normal bulbs and all). The software is usually really great about detailing what each byte in the coding chain does for each module. You can do things like change the number of times tapping the blinker flashes the signal, remote opening/closing of windows with the key, disabling the horn honking when you lock the car, etc.

It also allows you to scan the car for fault codes (and lets you clear them) and things for troubleshooting issues. In addition, you can turn on real-time logging of various blocks of information to assist with tuning or troubleshooting. You can export this log data to a flat file for import into other data manipulation tools for graphing and whatnot.

If you head to Ross Tech's site, it'll explain more. I linked to the cable I got a while back. It does everything you could want.

Even though I'm in my 30's, I still like to say "vadge-com" because I have the maturity of a 13-year-old sometimes. :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's an OBD2 cable with built-in authentication stuff in it that provides you with a sort of physical license to use the VCDS software, if that makes sense. It's like those hardware dongles they used to require to run 3D modelling software way back when. It lets you communicate with the various electronic components and modules in the car to do things you can't really do any other way without going to a dealer.

For example, if you want to get LED tails like they get in Europe, you have to make some code changes to the Central Electronics module or else you'll get bulb-out warnings (LEDs having lower resistance than the normal bulbs and all). The software is usually really great about detailing what each byte in the coding chain does for each module. You can do things like change the number of times tapping the blinker flashes the signal, remote opening/closing of windows with the key, disabling the horn honking when you lock the car, etc.

It also allows you to scan the car for fault codes (and lets you clear them) and things for troubleshooting issues. In addition, you can turn on real-time logging of various blocks of information to assist with tuning or troubleshooting. You can export this log data to a flat file for import into other data manipulation tools for graphing and whatnot.

If you head to Ross Tech's site, it'll explain more. I linked to the cable I got a while back. It does everything you could want.

Even though I'm in my 30's, I still like to say "vadge-com" because I have the maturity of a 13-year-old sometimes. :laugh:
Oh thanks for the great info about VAGCOM, Scotty. Looks like further research is needed before I start tinkering with the engine. I plan to do a Stage 1 chip after I'm done the break-in period and was leaning towards GIAC (http://www.tunerworks.com/products/index.cfm/category/354/). I saw a Unitronic video on YouTube that had WAY more gains but I have yet to determine who has a reputable tuning company.
 

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Oh thanks for the great info about VAGCOM, Scotty. Looks like further research is needed before I start tinkering with the engine. I plan to do a Stage 1 chip after I'm done the break-in period and was leaning towards GIAC (http://www.tunerworks.com/products/index.cfm/category/354/). I saw a Unitronic video on YouTube that had WAY more gains but I have yet to determine who has a reputable tuning company.
Most all of the tuning company software is reputable. Do your homework, of course, as there's several threads here about various tuners and their software and hardware offerings. The consensus seems to be go with whatever's closest to you so you'll have support that's easily accessible in case you need it. There are a lot of different things to consider when finding a tune. You can find all that information here in this forum! :thumbup:

I currently have APR's stage 1 flash on my R, and once I get the last couple of parts acquired I'm going stage 2+. On both my old R32 and GTI I had Revo with an SPS Plus switcher and loved it. APR, Revo, GIAC, Unitronic, UM. You have choices (dependent on location, of course), and everyone has an opinion. Same goes for hardware. I read a lot of personal reviews and look at installs to see things like build quality, price, ease of install, etc. It helps me make more informed decisions.

Couple things you'll want to do right off the bat:

- disconnect/remove Soundaktor
- get a short shifter (I got a Dieselgeek one, my DIY for it is in the DIY sticky)

I hated the stock shifter after I threw in the DG one. It was night and day difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Most all of the tuning company software is reputable. Do your homework, of course, as there's several threads here about various tuners and their software and hardware offerings. The consensus seems to be go with whatever's closest to you so you'll have support that's easily accessible in case you need it. There are a lot of different things to consider when finding a tune. You can find all that information here in this forum! :thumbup:

I currently have APR's stage 1 flash on my R, and once I get the last couple of parts acquired I'm going stage 2+. On both my old R32 and GTI I had Revo with an SPS Plus switcher and loved it. APR, Revo, GIAC, Unitronic, UM. You have choices (dependent on location, of course), and everyone has an opinion. Same goes for hardware. I read a lot of personal reviews and look at installs to see things like build quality, price, ease of install, etc. It helps me make more informed decisions.

Couple things you'll want to do right off the bat:

- disconnect/remove Soundaktor
- get a short shifter (I got a Dieselgeek one, my DIY for it is in the DIY sticky)

I hated the stock shifter after I threw in the DG one. It was night and day difference.
The great part is that APR, GIAC, and Unitronic are all available in Calgary. :D My usual place to go to has GIAC but I may be leaning towards Unitronic because of their ridiculous gains for the money.

I'm unsure of the reptuation though...

- I was reading more about this Soundaktor in the "Things I learned about my Golf R today..." thread. That's actually quite sad and will be doing the disconnect.
- Is there any big advantage to the SS? Why didn't it come stock like that? Will engine reliability be sacrificed? (First manny tranny for me so bear with me)
 

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I'm was in the exact same boat as you. First VW, first manual. I went with Apr tuning and am now stage 2+. Car is a beast. Im going to install the hpa short shifter soon without any idea how its going to feel for me, but as A LOT of people have said, the different is night and day so I bought it. Haha.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm was in the exact same boat as you. First VW, first manual. I went with Apr tuning and am now stage 2+. Car is a beast. Im going to install the hpa short shifter soon without any idea how its going to feel for me, but as A LOT of people have said, the different is night and day so I bought it. Haha.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
Fellow n00b, keep me updated on your SS upgrade! :thumbup:

How's the APR tuning treating you? Dependable and getting the results you want?
 

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Is there any big advantage to the SS? Why didn't it come stock like that? Will engine reliability be sacrificed? (First manny tranny for me so bear with me)
The biggest advantage is clearer, crisper shifts. The old shifter always felt sort of vague and soft (still much better than the old Focus I used to have). The short shifter I got introduces a more positive, clicky feel so that you are certain of each change. It just gave me more confidence when shifting.

They didn't come stock like this because, as you can tell, people's tastes vary in terms of the amount of notchiness they are willing to accept. Me, I love notchiness and feel that it just jives better with me. Other folks like smoother shifts, which is fine, too. The stock one was just a way to offer something relatively sporty without being notchy. I thought they were being a bit conservative with the feel, but then again VW is known to be a bit conservative with their cars (reporting power figures, especially).

You can't do any damage to the engine itself with a short shifter. The only thing you have to watch out for is the transmission, obviously, because if you don't get the home/alignment part down correctly, you can potentially do some damage. Fortunately, it's actually pretty hard to do that if you're careful. I'd never put in a shifter before, and the DG was my first. I took my time and nothing bad has happened. In fact, it's only gotten more enjoyable!

(sent via mobile)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The biggest advantage is clearer, crisper shifts. The old shifter always felt sort of vague and soft (still much better than the old Focus I used to have). The short shifter I got introduces a more positive, clicky feel so that you are certain of each change. It just gave me more confidence when shifting.

They didn't come stock like this because, as you can tell, people's tastes vary in terms of the amount of notchiness they are willing to accept. Me, I love notchiness and feel that it just jives better with me. Other folks like smoother shifts, which is fine, too. The stock one was just a way to offer something relatively sporty without being notchy. I thought they were being a bit conservative with the feel, but then again VW is known to be a bit conservative with their cars (reporting power figures, especially).

You can't do any damage to the engine itself with a short shifter. The only thing you have to watch out for is the transmission, obviously, because if you don't get the home/alignment part down correctly, you can potentially do some damage. Fortunately, it's actually pretty hard to do that if you're careful. I'd never put in a shifter before, and the DG was my first. I took my time and nothing bad has happened. In fact, it's only gotten more enjoyable!

(sent via mobile)
I guess I'll have to see how livable the stock throws are and decide from there.

Definitely will disconnect that soundaktor first. Do you have a store that you recommend for OEM Euro parts? I found OEMPlus but if you know a place that's a bit cheaper and ships to Canada, it would be greatly appreciated!

- Don
 

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I used to use OEMPlus a while back. I primarily use ECS Tuning for most of my OEM needs and have been for many years. I've always been happy with them. However, I ordered a set of LED tails from them, and after I'd had them on a while noticed that one of them was cherry instead of tinted. The box it came in said tinted and not cherry, so I E-mailed them a few pics, and they sent out the correct one quickly with a free return label. It was painless, and they were super easy to deal with. Also, depending on where you are in Great Canadia, you have access to HPA, and while pricy they have great aftermarket stuff. If my Google-fu is right, 403 is Alberta, which makes HPA about 13 hours from you. So a bit of a drive, haha.

(sent via mobile)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I used to use OEMPlus a while back. I primarily use ECS Tuning for most of my OEM needs and have been for many years. I've always been happy with them. However, I ordered a set of LED tails from them, and after I'd had them on a while noticed that one of them was cherry instead of tinted. The box it came in said tinted and not cherry, so I E-mailed them a few pics, and they sent out the correct one quickly with a free return label. It was painless, and they were super easy to deal with. Also, depending on where you are in Great Canadia, you have access to HPA, and while pricy they have great aftermarket stuff. If my Google-fu is right, 403 is Alberta, which makes HPA about 13 hours from you. So a bit of a drive, haha.

(sent via mobile)
ECS Tuning? Check. Will see how they fare up against OEMPlus.

Yup, you are correct; Alberta FTW!

HPA is in British Columbia so about 10 hours... Less if you pedal to the medal lol.
 

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i hope you don't get the euro seats. so i am the only one in canada.. just kidding. maybe i can help you get one.. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i hope you don't get the euro seats. so i am the only one in canada.. just kidding. maybe i can help you get one.. :thumbup:
I'm actually pretty happy with the current seats. I just find the clutch too deep but have to get used to it. Still stalling. :banghead:

after seeing some logged runs, my opinion would be to stay away from unitronic.
I think I'm leaning towards GIAC. Especially with that switch function. :thumbup:
 

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oh cool.. the stock seats are great.. but the euros are just fantastic.. clutch is slippery when my shoes are wet. hill assist stalls me.. i will turn that off..
 
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