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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Front Brake Pads Change DIY

My little contribution to this board...
1) Make sure you have your favorite brake pads

2) View of front calipers


3) Remove clip from caliper, pry up and then out, there is a 'tab' that is sloted into the outside pad clip you can see in the pictures below. You need to pry the clip up till the 'tab' clears the pad clip slot before you can get it outwards towards you. This clip is going to come off with some force, and it very well will scuff off a small portion of the caliper paint.




4) Remove both caliper guide bolts with a 7mm hex key, these guide bolts are covered behind 2 plastic caps on the back side of the caliper.



5) Upon removal of the 2 caliper guide bolts, the caliper will slide out and away from the brake disc and you can then remove both inner and outer pads. Remember to have someting to hold the caliper while its off the carrier, do not let it hang on the brake line.
6) The correct front pads are the 915-3 with 1 sensor on the driver side only. Since there are none I know of available of the 915-3, I used the 915-1 which is the exact same pad pattern with the 1 sensor on the driver side, except that the sensor clip is different. You can choose to 'loop' the sensor and eliminate that feature or you can graft the old stock plug on to the new pad sensor wire like I did (the stock wiring boot covers the wire joint nicely).




7) A good synthetic grease is recommended on the mating surfaces of the pad to the caliper piston/bracket, and the contact surfaces of the pad at the caliper bracket. I use a thin coat and so far the brakes have been silent.

8) Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly, do not over tighten the caliper guide bolts during re-assembly and be careful not to cross thread these bolts as well.
9) A thin coat of anti-seize where the hub meets the wheel is also recommended.

10) Finally, don't forget to torque to the correct rating. I don't know what the torque rating for the lug bolts are on the R32, but I have always run 80 ft lbs on my BMWs and so that is what I used.

Usual disclaimers applies to this DIY, I have attempted to be as detailed as I can, but if you have specific questions, I will be glad to answer based on my experience. Make sure your car is properly supported and secured before you work on it.


Modified by AsianDude at 10:58 PM 7-20-2008
 

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Pads Change DIY - Thanks... Rears?

Thanks so much for the write-up.... I received my new pads from Carbotech and will put them on this weekend....
I did a search for rear brake pad installation and found only MkIV - I have Carbotechs for the rears as well.
Happy Bedding-in
eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Pads Change DIY - Thanks... Rears? (Coyote R32)

Quote, originally posted by Coyote R32 »

I did a search for rear brake pad installation and found only MkIV - I have Carbotechs for the rears as well.

I have a write-up for the rears as well...I will post it in the next day or so...
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Carbotech
 

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Re: Pads Change DIY - Thanks... Rears? (AsianDude)

I'm about to change the pads but I'm next to certain that the replacements I'm getting do not come with the sensor. Can anyone describe the process to 'loop' the connector (is it just splicing the wires together??? - do I need to worry about tripping the sensor and how would I reset?.... or reuse the old sensor in the new pad?
Thanks!!!!
 

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Re: Pads Change DIY - Thanks... Rears? (Judgie)

Quote, originally posted by Judgie »
I'm about to change the pads but I'm next to certain that the replacements I'm getting do not come with the sensor. Can anyone describe the process to 'loop' the connector (is it just splicing the wires together??? - do I need to worry about tripping the sensor and how would I reset?.... or reuse the old sensor in the new pad?
Thanks!!!!

just splice them together and tape them up.
I've got the Carbotec bobcats, They are a nice pad.
 

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I have a 3.6 4mo passat which uses the same front brakes. One tip I would give is this. After I removed the carrier bolts, I needed to compress the piston back into the caliper before I was able to slide it off. I just used a screw driver to pry the caliper towards me compressing the inside pad against the back of the rotor.

Maybe this should have been obvious, but I searched for hours online trying to figure this out. The only forum I could find about my front brakes was this one, but my calipers didn't just slide out and away as easily as it seemed in the write up. Out of frustration, I tried my above method and luckily for me it worked. Hope maybe this will save someone else some frustrations.

Otherwise, great write up and great pictures. Thanks.
 
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