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It's easy make sure you use proper tools there is a video in YouTube how to do it.

But when you screw the main bolt in to the driving axel, make sure you use proper tools and of how hard you tight it. I did a mistake and did it too tight and had to redo it. Also you will need alignment after that

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I highly suggest using F A G (they manufacture the OEM units) or SKF brands. [Thank you vortex for the censorship, lol]
There are a few other good brands out there, but in our professional experience, those are the best two wheel bearing brands out there.

Take your time and as suggested above, do NOT over tighten the axle bolt when installing it.
If you purchase a kit from ***, it will come with an OEM Ruville bolt that has the appropriate locktite on it.

You typically do not need to do an alignment after installing new wheel bearings.
The exception to this is if your wheel bearing has an abnormally large amount of play.
If you have that much play in your wheel bearing, you should check over a lot more than just doing an alignment.
However, it doesn't hurt to get an alignment at least once a year, especially if you put a lot of miles on your car or just drive in an area with really bad roads.
 

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Yes you have to get it done or your tires will be chopped with in few weeks it few months

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No offense or anything, but could you possibly explain how the suspension alignment is altered by the wheel bearing being bad?

If the wheel bearing was really, really bad (to the point that the camber is offset by several degrees) I could see that affecting the alignment.
But, if you let it get to that point, you aren't going to make it very far down the road without destroying your car.

However, if you replace your wheel bearing when it is making the typical noise that it does, your suspension's alignment isn't going to be altered.
The only way that your alignment would need to be changed after changing the wheel bearing is if the car was originally aligned when the bearing was bad.

The wheel bearings on our cars are a hub assembly that is designed to be replaced without altering the alignment of the vehicle.
 

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I'm no pro mechanic in any way.. I'm just telling you from my own experience.

When you remove wheel bearing, you need to remove Lowe ball joint and see atach few other things. The only thing that it says attached is the shock.

When I had Todo both sides I noticed crazy tire ware on the car right away. And prior to that I had alignment done. I got new tires put on and went for alignment right away because I didn't want 700$ to go to waist. My camber was off not much but a little it would make a huge difference of tire ware in the long run.

I'm not telling you or anyone Todo.. I'm just telling you what I did and I'm giving you pointers so you don't end up like me.

Mario

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I'm no pro mechanic in any way.. I'm just telling you from my own experience.

When you remove wheel bearing, you need to remove Lowe ball joint and see atach few other things. The only thing that it says attached is the shock.

When I had Todo both sides I noticed crazy tire ware on the car right away. And prior to that I had alignment done. I got new tires put on and went for alignment right away because I didn't want 700$ to go to waist. My camber was off not much but a little it would make a huge difference of tire ware in the long run.

I'm not telling you or anyone Todo.. I'm just telling you what I did and I'm giving you pointers so you don't end up like me.

Mario

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I understand where you're coming from. Back in the day I used to do a lot of work in my parent's driveway and sometimes I had to figure out how to do things a little differently.

From a professional's perspective however, you do not need to do an alignment after replacing a wheel bearing on a VW Mk5, Mk6 (PQ35 chassis vehicles) or B6 Passat, CC, Tiguan (PQ46 chassis vehicles).
Even if you do remove the ball joint, as long as you don't disconnect the other side of the control arm (which is not necessary at all to replace a wheel bearing), you aren't altering the wheel alignment.
The factory ball joints can only be bolt back in one way and offer no adjustment. Now if you had SuperPro adjustable ball joints (which I do), you would need to readjust them on the alignment rack.

It sounds like you had a bad shop perform the alignment before you replaced the wheel bearings, and that's why your tire was wearing improperly.
If a mechanic attempts to perform an alignment with a bad wheel bearing (where camber is affected), the alignment specs will constantly change while trying to set the alignment.
We won't attempt to do an alignment if we notice this happening because it's impossible to correctly set the alignment specs.
 

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2021 HiHy Platinum AWD
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I'm no pro mechanic in any way.. I'm just telling you from my own experience.

When you remove wheel bearing, you need to remove Lowe ball joint and see atach few other things. The only thing that it says attached is the shock.

When I had Todo both sides I noticed crazy tire ware on the car right away. And prior to that I had alignment done. I got new tires put on and went for alignment right away because I didn't want 700$ to go to waist. My camber was off not much but a little it would make a huge difference of tire ware in the long run.

I'm not telling you or anyone Todo.. I'm just telling you what I did and I'm giving you pointers so you don't end up like me.

Mario

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
No you don't need to remove the ball joint, you don't need extra room that you would need with a strut replacement, that you need for a wheel bearing/hub assembly. Remove the axle bolt, remove the brakes, then remove the 4 bolts for the bearing/hub assembly and reinstall.... it's pretty straight forward to do.




What you need to be careful is the torquing of the axle bolt, as a grade 10.3 bolt doesn't require as much torque as a Grade 8.8 bolt (the grade is stamped onto the head of the bolt).
 

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No you don't need to remove the ball joint, you don't need extra room that you would need with a strut replacement, that you need for a wheel bearing/hub assembly. Remove the axle bolt, remove the brakes, then remove the 4 bolts for the bearing/hub assembly and reinstall.... it's pretty straight forward to do.

What you need to be careful is the torquing of the axle bolt, as a grade 10.3 bolt doesn't require as much torque as a Grade 8.8 bolt (the grade is stamped onto the head of the bolt).
:thumbup::thumbup:

This post makes me happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Continuing challenge. Does anyone know where I can get the bolt that holds the hub on? I need one of the four triple square bolts that connect the assembly from the back.
 

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Continuing challenge. Does anyone know where I can get the bolt that holds the hub on? I need one of the four triple square bolts that connect the assembly from the back.
The hub didn't come with enough bolts?

Anyway, WHT000237A
 

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It's easy make sure you use proper tools there is a video in YouTube how to do it.

But when you screw the main bolt in to the driving axel, make sure you use proper tools and of how hard you tight it. I did a mistake and did it too tight and had to redo it. Also you will need alignment after that

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An alignment after a wheel bearing? Explain why
 

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All great info in here. I installed a Rein from FCP on my CC and it's held up well.

I highly suggest using F A G (they manufacture the OEM units) or SKF brands. [Thank you vortex for the censorship, lol]
There are a few other good brands out there, but in our professional experience, those are the best two wheel bearing brands out there.

Take your time and as suggested above, do NOT over tighten the axle bolt when installing it.
If you purchase a kit from ***, it will come with an OEM Ruville bolt that has the appropriate locktite on it.

You typically do not need to do an alignment after installing new wheel bearings.
The exception to this is if your wheel bearing has an abnormally large amount of play.
If you have that much play in your wheel bearing, you should check over a lot more than just doing an alignment.
However, it doesn't hurt to get an alignment at least once a year, especially if you put a lot of miles on your car or just drive in an area with really bad roads.
Charles, curious as to why you warn against over tightening the axle bolt. The current OEM part is non-ribbed and has a 147ft lb + 180* torque spec, which I have never been able to achieve. I usually go 147 ft lbs + 90*. With such a high torque spec, I'm curious as to why over tightening this would be a concern?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
All great info in here. I installed a Rein from FCP on my CC and it's held up well.



Charles, curious as to why you warn against over tightening the axle bolt. The current OEM part is non-ribbed and has a 147ft lb + 180* torque spec, which I have never been able to achieve. I usually go 147 ft lbs + 90*. With such a high torque spec, I'm curious as to why over tightening this would be a concern?


Was able to get 147 + about 120 degrees with a 24" breaker bar. 180 is ridiculous.
 

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Was able to get 147 + about 120 degrees with a 24" breaker bar. 180 is ridiculous.
I know, right?? I have a few VW tech friends and they don't even get to 180* at the dealership. I tried as hard as I could and I was fearing the U joint breaking on my 1/2" breaker bar. I had 48* total and the breaker bar was flexing like crazy reducing my effective leverage.
 

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All great info in here. I installed a Rein from FCP on my CC and it's held up well.

Charles, curious as to why you warn against over tightening the axle bolt. The current OEM part is non-ribbed and has a 147ft lb + 180* torque spec, which I have never been able to achieve. I usually go 147 ft lbs + 90*. With such a high torque spec, I'm curious as to why over tightening this would be a concern?
You could cause damage to the threads or if you can manage it, damage the bearing assembly itself.
You can definitely overtighten an axle bolt with enough leverage, most people simply don't have that big of a wrench.

I stepped out into the shop and grabbed a quick pic of a handful of the wrenches that one of my technicians uses. For reference, I wear a size 11...

 
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