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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Time to fix an oil leak!

Have any of you replaced your Oil Filter Housing Assembly (the part that the oil filter housing screws on to)? How difficult was the job? How did you get the part out/in easily? Thanks!

(Yes, I have searched. There doesn't seem to be much about this.)

 

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Haven't replaced mine, but the PO did (not sure who overtightened it). I replaced the filter housing with ECS' billet aluminum housing. I'd love to relocate the filter to make oil changes easier. Good luck.
 

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I'd really love to have a spin-on. The 1.8T setup seems attractive, but nailing down the specifics of what exactly is needed seems tough. I was hoping the part numbers would show up in the balance shaft deletion thread that has been bouncing around in here recently, but the jurry is still out on it. I know there are cars running around with that setup, but haven't seen enough to take the plunge on it as a DIY yet.

--Matt
 

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I've done this.

Basic steps:

1) remove engine cover
2) remove intake manifold
3) drain coolant and oil
4) remove oil cooler
5) remove oil filter housing.

I'm going to replace some seals this weekend possibly... I'll try to take pics along the way to give you some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've done this.

Basic steps:

1) remove engine cover
2) remove intake manifold
3) drain coolant and oil
4) remove oil cooler
5) remove oil filter housing.

I'm going to replace some seals this weekend possibly... I'll try to take pics along the way to give you some ideas.
You can't take it out from the under the car? Do you really need to remove the other parts? Thanks.


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You can't take it out from the under the car? Do you really need to remove the other parts? Thanks.


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Given the amount of space, I would say incredibly unlikely, though not impossible.

I'll share with you two images that might change your mind...




And when you do get that intake pipe off...



You have to get the oil cooler off (silver box) and the bolts for it are behind that wiring harness. The only space you have to work in is the space you created by removing the intake pipe, which isn't very much.

Haven't consulted the Bentley to see what it says... But I'm pretty sure it would say go in from the top.
 

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Given the amount of space, I would say incredibly unlikely, though not impossible.

I'll share with you two images that might change your mind...




And when you do get that intake pipe off...



You have to get the oil cooler off (silver box) and the bolts for it are behind that wiring harness. The only space you have to work in is the space you created by removing the intake pipe, which isn't very much.

Haven't consulted the Bentley to see what it says... But I'm pretty sure it would say go in from the top.

majic great info here. Where did you get that patch placed around the intercooler hose that leads to the throttle body. I recently changed out my thermostat and noticed a hole in that exact same spot from the bolt that protrudes there. Been looking for a fix for about week and stumbled upon this thread with the pics.
 

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I'd really love to have a spin-on. The 1.8T setup seems attractive, but nailing down the specifics of what exactly is needed seems tough. I was hoping the part numbers would show up in the balance shaft deletion thread that has been bouncing around in here recently, but the jurry is still out on it. I know there are cars running around with that setup, but haven't seen enough to take the plunge on it as a DIY yet.

--Matt
Matt - Start with IE. Here's a link to the adapter plate, other parts will be necessary, but IE know's what all you'll need.

http://www.performancebyie.com/inte...block-to-06a-oil-filter-housing-adapter-plate

You may also want to talk to Dave, as he's done this on his current Golf R Stage 3 build....

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...4-s-CW-4dr-Build-Part-2-Built-engine-GTX3076r

DUB
 

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majic great info here. Where did you get that patch placed around the intercooler hose that leads to the throttle body. I recently changed out my thermostat and noticed a hole in that exact same spot from the bolt that protrudes there. Been looking for a fix for about week and stumbled upon this thread with the pics.
Ah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that's not a patch, per se... I put an extra piece of silicone there to prevent that stud from wearing through the silicone hose... I saw it protruding there and thought in time it might wear a hole, so I wrapped that extra piece of silicone there.
 

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I couldnt take out the triple square bit thats on the manifold support and now stuck... trying to remove the filter housing without manifold and it's been 2 days now. Any suggestions on how to get access to that bolt with all the things blocking it?

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I couldnt take out the triple square bit thats on the manifold support and now stuck... trying to remove the filter housing without manifold and it's been 2 days now. Any suggestions on how to get access to that bolt with all the things blocking it?

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Did you take the throttle body off? If not, do so. Makes it 1000% easier. With the throttle body off it should be pretty easy to see the bolt. I think you can go straight to it with an extension but maybe you need a universal joint to get the right angle. Make sure the socket is fully seated into the bolt because the triple square is easy to strip... as I've said elsewhere; Stupid triple-square B.S. No reason it couldn't have been a normal hex socket or even a torx. Whoever invented the triple-square should be shot and whoever at Audi decided to use them should be framed for his murder.

I also have an oil leak which appears to be coming from the filter housing area. I don't think there is anything else below the intake manifold that could be leaking oil so I plan on replacing it. I'm hoping to get away with not removing the intake manifold because it takes so much longer and there is risk of damaging the injector seals. Besides... I just took the darn intake manifold off a few months ago when I did the timing belt and intake valve cleaning! Of course the leak shows up right after I do that. :banghead:
 

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Did you take the throttle body off? If not, do so. Makes it 1000% easier. With the throttle body off it should be pretty easy to see the bolt. I think you can go straight to it with an extension but maybe you need a universal joint to get the right angle. Make sure the socket is fully seated into the bolt because the triple square is easy to strip... as I've said elsewhere; Stupid triple-square B.S. No reason it couldn't have been a normal hex socket or even a torx. Whoever invented the triple-square should be shot and whoever at Audi decided to use them should be framed for his murder.

I also have an oil leak which appears to be coming from the filter housing area. I don't think there is anything else below the intake manifold that could be leaking oil so I plan on replacing it. I'm hoping to get away with not removing the intake manifold because it takes so much longer and there is risk of damaging the injector seals. Besides... I just took the darn intake manifold off a few months ago when I did the timing belt and intake valve cleaning! Of course the leak shows up right after I do that. :banghead:
I did take the throttle body off and whilst trying to remove the lower support bolt I broke the dipstick funnel.

As you can see the funnel was in the way and didn't realise I could remove the top half of it. Now this is what I ended up breaking..


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As you can see the funnel was in the way and didn't realise I could remove the top half of it. Now this is what I ended up breaking..
Ouch! So did you get the bolt out? Seeing your pics brings back the memories of how I did this. First of all, I pulled the upper dipstick tube out so it wasn't in the way. Yeah, I know.. a little late. Just not something I remember doing until now.

Looks like you've still got the metal coolant hose and wire harness in the way. I think I used a 1/4" drive extension to fit between the hose and wire harness and then adapter to a 3/8" extension to get the rest of the way for a straight shot to the bolt.
 

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Ouch! So did you get the bolt out? Seeing your pics brings back the memories of how I did this. First of all, I pulled the upper dipstick tube out so it wasn't in the way. Yeah, I know.. a little late. Just not something I remember doing until now.

Looks like you've still got the metal coolant hose and wire harness in the way. I think I used a 1/4" drive extension to fit between the hose and wire harness and then adapter to a 3/8" extension to get the rest of the way for a straight shot to the bolt.
Oh i was dreading why those hoses were metal smh.. I almost shot myself in the head lol.. is there a replacement for that? Cos it's in the way of everything.. I just put the new oil filter housing in and had to pull it hard to slide the housing in behind the hose.

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I've replaced the housing gaskets on my B7 A4 and intake manifold removal is not required. It takes maybe an hour start to finish.
 

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I came across this thread while trying to find a DIY myself so just wanted to post here. I found this DIY helpful for getting the oil cooler out of the way, no intake manifold removal required. After the oil cooler there's a bracket that needs to be removed that you'll need an M5 triple square bit for, then an allen for the bolts holding the housing. It's a pain in the ass to do without removing the manifold, but it is do-able. Just make sure you have all the tools since that triple square is an oddball and stores don't carry this size. At least none in my area. And prepare to be dirty.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Cooler/39-WATER-Replacing_Your_Oil_Cooler.htm
 

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Just finished this job. A few notes for anyone thinking about tackling it:

It is definitely doable from below, not fun, but doable.
Removing the fan shroud assembly creates a lot more room to work.
Have long L shaped hex keys available in 5mm for the housing to block bolts and 6mm for the oil cooler to housing bolts. Ball end helps too. Long hex key sockets would probably work as well, but would have to be at least 4 inches or so.
There is a bracket on top of the oil cooler, held on with the same bolts that hold on the cooler, that appears to completely block one of the bolts. It doesn't, there is room to slip a long 6mm hex key in underneath the bracket lip and reach the bolt.
Didn't remove the throttle body - had plenty of room to work after removing the fan shroud.
I decided to replace the entire assembly with gaskets instead of just the gaskets. Didn't want to invest all the time just to risk having the leak still there because there was a small hard to see crack in the plastic. The part is relatively cheap compared to the time involved. Didn't see any cracks, but with it all back together and not leaking, I don't mind at all the extra cost for the peace of mind.
Drain the coolant from the auxiliary electric water pump - the lowest point in the system. Then unbolt the single bolt holding on the pump bracket and tuck it out of the way - gives more room to work.
Lastly, take your time. I did the removal on day one (about 4 hours), rolled down the garage door, and put everything back together the second day. Putting things back together was a lot easier.

Good luck!
 

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Guys don't forget the Audis are inline and easier to remove and replace where as the passat are harder..

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