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The German EBay refurbished Delphi alternators are going for about $400 with a $50 added core charge. The sales are in Euros.

Kim
 

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So about $530 USD. I'm thinking for the extra $182 I'll just buy a new one from the dealer to avoid the hassle of replacing other parts. I'll for sure be getting new o-rings by the brand mentioned earlier in this thread since they're chemical resistant. Anyone know where I can find those?
 

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OIC

I think some thought it was 400 Euros but you used the dollar sign.

I was looking them up by the VW part numbers yesterday. VWOA says the part number changed from the original so I looked it up by both part numbers. The ones I looked up yesterday were way more expensive except the used ones.

I set my eBay search to "worldwide" and this auction shows up in my eBay login. If I go to another country, eBay logs me out.

Sometimes I am looking on eBay.uk (for UK members) and I find Phaeton parts that have the prices listed in Pounds but are located in the USA.

-Eric
 

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The part number I'm coming up with is: 07C-903-021-F or 07C903021F. Same number without the dashes. Cheapest I found was from VW for $656. I saw some off-brand type on eBay from Germany that was $556. I think the extra $100 is worth the peace of mind. If anyone else is finding different part numbers or cheaper prices please let me know.
 

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I'd recommend that you check with the supplier (I assume on of the VW dealers selling online) using your VIN to see what part # shows as correct (they one you listed is the same as on my W12s) and if it has been superseded by another number or not. They will also be able to tell you if there's any stock in the US and if not if there's any in stock in Germany. There might also be a rebuilt version from VW, the part number would typically be the same but with an X at the end.
 

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The part number I'm coming up with is: 07C-903-021-F or 07C903021F. Same number without the dashes. Cheapest I found was from VW for $656. I saw some off-brand type on eBay from Germany that was $556. I think the extra $100 is worth the peace of mind. If anyone else is finding different part numbers or cheaper prices please let me know.
07C903021F from post #10 is the part number that VWOA says is NLA:

https://parts.vw.com/p/48093338/07C903021F.html

If you click on the full diagram, it comes up with this (and it does have an X on the end):

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__/Alternator-GENERATOR/54635646/07C903018X.html

That one is for 2004, 2005, 2006 V8 and 2004, 2005 W12.

If you click on Full Diagram again, you find this for the 2006 W12:

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__/Alternator/48003937/07C903021NX.html

07C903021F and 07C903018X were the part numbers I was searching for on eBay the other day.

The cheaper ones were found using the Delphi or Hitachi part numbers.

If your dealer has 07C903021F for $656.00, I'd be tempted to grab it if it was correct for my VIN.

I'd just be worried that mine had been replaced in the past and my pipes didn't fit the new alternator.

-Eric
 

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Hello,

I have received all VW parts for my 2004 W12 alternator replacement and will begin reassembly tomorrow, but I'm a bit confused on the alternator (Delphi, VW rebuild 07C-903-018X, $761.77 plus core) pulley fit. The rebuild did not include the pulley. We removed the old one without much effort, which is in good shape, then opened ELSA for the 6.0 liter alternator installation steps and found the statement that on the 6.0 L alternator the pulley cannot be replaced, and only the whole assembly can be replaced. Hmmm... I think we can (again!) improvise tools to torque the keeper to 80 Nm but why the ELSA warning and if true why does VW sell a rebuild without a pulley?

Any ideas? Did any of you install a pulley on a replacement?

The rebuild is otherwise exactly the correct part matching the coolant line fits, wiring connections and mounting.

Thanks,
Kim
 

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Hello,

I have received all VW parts for my 2004 W12 alternator replacement and will begin reassembly tomorrow, but I'm a bit confused on the alternator (Delphi, VW rebuild 07C-903-018X, $761.77 plus core) pulley fit. The rebuild did not include the pulley. We removed the old one without much effort, which is in good shape, then opened ELSA for the 6.0 liter alternator installation steps and found the statement that on the 6.0 L alternator the pulley cannot be replaced, and only the whole assembly can be replaced. Hmmm... I think we can (again!) improvise tools to torque the keeper to 80 Nm but why the ELSA warning and if true why does VW sell a rebuild without a pulley?

Any ideas? Did any of you install a pulley on a replacement?

The rebuild is otherwise exactly the correct part matching the coolant line fits, wiring connections and mounting.

Thanks,
Kim
Most OEM's will start consolidating parts and part #'s as vehicles get older to keep part stock up without having to stock "different" stuff. If they have two different parts that are the same or similiar, that will work for both, they'll consolidate it if they can. Like Honda used tto sell a turn signal for a motorcycle as lens, arm and wiring pigtail , since the arm and lens was same for several different bikes but the wiring pigtail was longer or shorter depending on the bike, as time went on, they consolidate and just sell a arm and lens as one part# that fits many bikes and the wiring is up to you now. As long as you can torque the pully fastener to the unit you'll be fine. It's possible they had the same alternator with some different pulley or no pulley on some other engine at some point and just relisted those as available for phaeton now.
 

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Most OEM's will start consolidating parts and part #'s as vehicles get older to keep part stock up without having to stock "different" stuff. If they have two different parts that are the same or similiar, that will work for both, they'll consolidate it if they can. Like Honda used tto sell a turn signal for a motorcycle as lens, arm and wiring pigtail , since the arm and lens was same for several different bikes but the wiring pigtail was longer or shorter depending on the bike, as time went on, they consolidate and just sell a arm and lens as one part# that fits many bikes and the wiring is up to you now. As long as you can torque the pully fastener to the unit you'll be fine. It's possible they had the same alternator with some different pulley or no pulley on some other engine at some point and just relisted those as available for phaeton now.
73B... I think you're correct. It appears there's been several versions of the Delphi unit for sale with slight differences since the cars were built. They don't have a way to update repair manuals other than dealer bulletins and I doubt issue them for stuff like this. We got the pully on using a splined center rod inside a socket and pulled it up to torque just fine. Maybe on the road by next week!
Kim
 

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Finally... had some time over the Holidays and the tremendous assistance of my shop technician Chris to finish the W12 alternator replacement plus the water pump, idler pulleys and tensioner. Add miscellaneous cracked brackets, serpentine belt and some electrical connectors and it was not exactly "easy" but doable. I've been running it several days now and I have the magic 14 volts out the alternator and a much quieter idle probably due to the other new stuff. Also, knock-on-wood, several electrical nuisances for the time being are absent.
In summary if you're not troubled over fabricating some tools and have plenty of time you can do the lock carrier access method yourself and save a ton of money vs. a dealer engine-out.

Kim
 
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