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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't post pics right now since they're all on my digital camera but basically

1. Unhooked Clamp @ Turbo
2. Removed the downpipe mount hardware
3. removed O2 Sensor

i can't get the downpipe around the hole. All of the guides online are for a GTI and guess what, The GTI doesn't have a drive-train for the rear wheels! So that hole is really big and the downpipe just goes right through but my drive train is in the way. Also, there are some welded on connectors on the downpipe that are making this pretty hard.

Looking up photos online, I "sketched" up an example of what's getting in my way (see blue arrow)





The Bull-X Pipe I bought doesn't have these tabs which in itself is a bit scary. Does the replacement downpipe just clamp onto the turbo and hang until it meets the rubber feet connectors past the O2 sensor? Is that safe?


Also the Turbo Outlet Pipe from Spulen was missing everything but the pipe so I'm stuck...golf is up on blocks until USP ships me the parts I need to complete that job and I have a downpipe just hanging down.

Should I cover my turbo input / downpipe outlets with cling wrap or a plastic bag if it's going to be a few days? I don't want bugs or dust getting in there, right?
 

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I thought most removed drive shaft for down pipe install


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Every aftermarket downpipe I have seen for this platform is of poor design. The first issue, the bend from the turbo outlet towards the rear of the car is unavoidable. The rest is Turbo exhaust 101 that nobody seems to give two poops about.

Good luck with the install as if you have not removed the driveshaft you will have a hell of a time and if the downpipe isn't secured well enough along with the massive movement of this engine you will have issues down the road.
 

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FV-QR

I dropped the subframe to get mine out - no need to remove the drive shaft if you do that. Although if removing the driveshaft will do it that may be preferable as you won't then need an alignment.
 

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Adam I messaged you my phone number before. Give me a call and I'll see if I can help you out.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Spoke to Emmanuele Design (who sells the Bull-X) who gave me these instructions:

- Disconnect v-band at turbo
- Remove 2 8mm nuts holding on CV shield (a ball head allen works best here)
- Remove M8 (IIRC) triple square to remove driveshaft shield
- Remove 12mm nuts holding downpipe bracket to block
- Remove 3 10mm 12-point bolts holding in driveshaft (need long extension and swivel)
- Remove two 15mm bolts holding dogbone to block
- Push engine towards front of the car to free driveshaft, Swing driveshaft all the way to the driver side
- Remove 13mm bolts on downpipe bracket and 13mm sleeve clamp
- Remove downpipe


I also spoke to IanCH on the phone tonight who recommended the same advice. So I'm just going to wait for USP to ship out my replacement Spulen parts and I'll have them throw in the dog bone mount and I'll do this as soon as both of those arrive. I think I can do this myself. we'll see.


Here are Photos:







 

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If people don't give a darn about the stock downpipe, why not cut is off below the flex joint and just pull it up through the engine compartment? It seems that you dont' need to go through all that work and taking stuff off to put the aftermarket ones back in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If people don't give a darn about the stock downpipe, why not cut is off below the flex joint and just pull it up through the engine compartment? It seems that you dont' need to go through all that work and taking stuff off to put the aftermarket ones back in place.
Tonight, around an hour before we called it quits, that was discussed. My GF's dad has a welding / plasma cutting setup. Discussed but what if I take this car back to stock before selling it. I really am going to regret not having a stock downpipes @ hand.
 

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Disconnecting the driveshaft isn't really that hard. You might as well do it right instead of cutting and welding.... that is way more work.
 

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When removing the drive shaft you will need to rotate both rear wheels the same direction at the same time to rotate the drive shaft the reach the next drive shaft bolt. You won't be able to reach all the bolts on the drive shaft without rotating it.

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Also, you need the stock pipe if, for some reason, you are unable to pass emissions with the aftermarket installed.

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When removing the drive shaft you will need to rotate both rear wheels the same direction at the same time to rotate the drive shaft the reach the next drive shaft bolt. You won't be able to reach all the bolts on the drive shaft without rotating it.
False you can just remove the shroud that covers the last bolt.

And about cutting it out... Not so easy. You basically have to chop the dp on both ends of the cat. That big thing is too big to come out the engine compartment.

Take off the drive shaft. It's not that hard. The instructions you got are solid. Unhook the shaft, undo the lower motor mounts. Rotate the engine forward and move the shaft to the side. Now plenty of room to get old dp out and new dp in. Repeat in reverse. Pm of you have questions. I'd be happy to talk you through it...
 

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Why would you take extra parts off and go to awkward places when you can just move the bolt you are trying to reach into a easy access position? It's not like moving the rear wheels is hard...

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