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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OEM Bi-Xenon (with shutter) installation on Golf V GTI.
By DimiK
This document is for informational purposes only. Any vehicle modifications should be done by a certified VW mechanic. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.
Hello to everyone.
Finally, after i got the OEM Bi-Xenon Headlights (Xenon with shutter and additional halogen) plus the aLWR system from http://www.kufatec.de (i recommend them since they sell the VW OEM sensors and control unit) and after i got some nuts and other stuff from the local VW service, i finally mannaged to install the complete kit. It took some time (2 days) but tonight i finnished the job and it works like a charm. I plan to post some photos of the installation plus some instructions of how to do it if anyone is interested.

Total cost 540 Euros + 389Euros (Cables, front/rear sensors, control module, xenon headlight adaptors) + 10 euros (small parts from service centre)= 939 Euros.
Please note that this installation was performed on a Golf V GTI with a highline CECM (i think all GTI's are equiped with a highline CECM. This installation can also be performed on other Golf MKV's with a highline CECM).


Modified by DimiK at 10:17 AM 11-28-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (alanbrito)

Ok, I got an online photo album account so here are the first pics.

This is the car with the headlights installed. I'll make a day pic tomorrow.
1st pic is with the normal xenon beam:

This is it's projection:

The next pic is the high beam with xenon shutter engaged (you can hear a flipping sound if you are outside the car from the headlights when shutter is engaged)+ halogen high beam:

And this is it's projection:

Tomorrow i'll make some day pics of the installation and from the VAG Com programming.



Modified by DimiK at 2:18 PM 11-20-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (maloosheck)

The kit from Kufatec had the cables and instructions. I had to connect a cable that says "lights-on" to the A connector of the CECM pin number 2 and i hat to solder it. Then i connect pin 11 from one headlight to connector A pin 5 (should be empty so just plug it in) and then from the other headlight pin 11 to connector D of the CECM pin number 6 (this also is empty). To provide the extra voltage i had to go to SC5 (fuse at the fusebox) and plug a pin there too (and used a 10A mini fuse). I had to connect the ground point at block A of the car (just use a silver screw that is left of the fuse box. Finally i had to connect a can high wire to pin 16 on the gateway (solder it) and a can low on pin number 6 on the gateway. As you know the xenon headlight uses 12 pins (actually 11) and the halogen lights use 10 pins (actually uses just 6), pin number 11 from each headlight connects directly to the CECM. The rest of the pins (4 pins for xenon from each connector, connect to the control module) More pics tomorrow.



Modified by DimiK at 2:42 PM 11-20-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (maloosheck)

In the morning i'll take fresh pics to post here before i start putting together my car's interrior.



Modified by DimiK at 2:58 PM 11-20-2007
 

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Re: (DimiK)

Quote, originally posted by DimiK »
Then i connect pin 11 from one headlight to connector A pin 5 (should be empty so just plug it in) and then from the other headlight pin 11 to connector D of the CECM pin number 6 (this also is empty).

This is the info I was curious about. I have all the wiring figure out. What I didn't know was that xenon hi-beams work together with the halogen hi-beams, as on the picture you provided.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (maloosheck)

Yes, the halogen and the xenon high beam (shutter open) work together. Glad i could help.
Here is a day pic of my car after Xenon installation:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (DimiK)

So here is the first pic from the engine compartment. Blue arrow indicates the 2 wires coming out from the cable lines underneath the battery. You have to remove the battery and the battery holder too but before that don't forget to leave the trunk door open, you'll need to access the rear later so as to install the cable for the rear sensor. There are 3 cables that run from the cabin to the engine compartment. 2 for the lights and 1 for the front sensor. You can run the cable for the front sensor through the front ABS cable insert located straight under the engine's fuse holder (right of battery). Red arrows indicate the left and right wires for the lights (go get from the VW service some cable protecting tubes like you can see on the pic. Yellow arrow points at the 10 to 12 pin adapter. At the green arrow you can see the 11 cables (the last yellow/red wire at pin 11 is the one that connects to the A connector pin 5 in the CECM, the one from the other light connects to the D connector pin 6 of the CECM).

The connections to the connectors are:
Driver's side:
Pin 1 - red/yellow
Pin 2 - yellow/green
Pin 3 - white/blue
Pin 4 - red/green
Pin 11- yellow/red (from CECM A pin 5)
Front seat passenger side:
Pin 1 - green
Pin 2 - violet
Pin 3 - grey
Pin 4 - white
pin 11 - yellow/red (from CECM D pin 6)


When you plug the cables in the connectors, lock the connectors (push a small clip on the side of each connector) otherwise you'll not be able to plug them on the headlights.


Modified by DimiK at 1:55 PM 11-21-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (DimiK)

The next pic is not from my GTI (i got this pic from the instructions i received from Kufatec) but you can see from where the front sensor's cable run from (blue arrow). 3 wires connect to sensor. Pin 1 red wire, pin 2 black wire and pin 4 blue wire (pin 3 is empty).


Modified by DimiK at 9:58 AM 11-21-2007


Modified by DimiK at 10:59 AM 11-21-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (DimiK)

Then you remove the rear seats and the driver's side rear seat back too. Then you run the cable for the rear sensor throught the driver's door trim (look for Skoda bluetooth intergration for Golf MKV for how to remove the door trim) and bring it to the back. On the left side there is a plastic cover that a cable runs through. It is made of rather hard to pierce or cut material so i used a dremel and made a hole in it (size of a pen) and you run the cable from there (use black silicon to cover the hole afterwards).




Modified by DimiK at 10:54 AM 11-21-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (DimiK)

In the next pic you can see the control module (blue arrow), where you pass the wire for the rear sensor (red arrow, remove door trim only, you don't need to remove trim where the hood opening handle is), the ground wire and ground point (yellow arrow) and the cable to the fuse box location SC5 (green arrow).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (DimiK)

Next is a close up pic of the fuse box (SC5 i used a 10A mini fuse)and the ground point. Carefull here. You have to unscrew and open the fuse box. Inside you'll find a pink plastic connector holder. You can't just slip the cable with connector here but you must try and lift up this pink colored plastic (don't try to pull it off completely). There is a pink notch at the bottom end of this pink plastic and try from there to lift it up (using a flat screwdriver release the plastic from the notces along side and pull out simultaneously). Then you can plug in the cable and it will clip into place. Push back the pink plastic and you're done (also check all other fuses are sitting into their place and push them back). You have to be extra carefull because if you lift it too much you'll disconnect all the fuses and you'll end up gathering fuses from allover the place. Another way is to remove all the fuses (before take a note which fuse goes where) and dissasemble the fuse box.




Modified by DimiK at 3:01 PM 11-21-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (DimiK)

Here you can see the gateway (where the red connector is hooked on) and the 2 wires (can high and can low, at the arrow point). Carefully unplug the red connector, remove the red cover and solder on pin number 16 (orange/black wire) the can high wire and on pin number 6(orange/brown wire) the can low wire. The can bus wires are always twisted with each other in pairs.
 
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