Never hurts to upgrade the whole ground cable, especially if it looks older.
I’m just dandy, happy the Cae is running and wish I had more time to drive it but now I have an issue with fuel leaking out of one of the vent tubes so I’ll need to drop it and reconnect whatever was up there.
Can’t go wrong with replacing all vacuum lines if their history is unknown or suspect. Like replacing grounds, solves many small teething issues and gives you a better foundation to start troubleshooting from.
Is the owner a guy called Chris? 16_volt was complaining about them too in his TCL Porsche 930 thread. He took his car to them and got it back in worse running shape and they charged him handsomely for it.
Sucks bud. You'll get it sorted, one way or another. Half of the joy I get from my car is calculating how much money I've saved by doing the work myself.
The G666 Jetta coupe "build" thread - daily beater to daily driver.
If the back end is rotating too much you need to find a way to soften it or increase grip. Raise the ride height, remove the RSB, lower tyre pressure, stickier tyres, reduce damping, increase negative camber, add weight over the rear axle.
I wasn’t able to get my back end to break on my last drive before the front started pushing, so I’m thinking about doing the opposite, but I also know I’m a terrible driver so. More essential road testing required. Luckily I have adjustable damping so it’s quite easy to adjust balance, I don’t think the Weitecs do
Rear camber shims are pretty cheap. I don't think altering the track width is going to make any difference at all. And it looks like I got a couple of things backwards, looks like you increase rear tyre pressure to reduce oversteer. Weird. I was right about the camber though and it looks like increasing rear toe-out also reduces oversteer, so you could get two sets of shims and stack them so one increases your neg camber and the other increases toe out.
Heavier springs reduces oversteer so maybe lowering the back will help.
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