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Greta The Jetta G60 Coupe "Build" Thread

225K views 4K replies 51 participants last post by  Butcher 
#1 · (Edited)
Greta The Jetta

1984 Jetta Sunroof coupe
G60 Swap (15lbs)
020 Trans
Helios Recaro interior


When I got it.





Current status of polishing it up.


Note: You can see how high the mk2 recaros rear seat frame sits in the mk1. comparied to the photos below.




It's been 2 hard weeks of hard work...Its getting closer.
 
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#3,574 ·
I've been wanting to make the switch to LEDs in the gauge cluster for awhile. Bulbs are dim and need to be replaced anyways. So I think now is the time with this new 140mph cluster.

If I have to go through the effort of swapping clusters, and installing the new cluster harness loom. Then let's atleast make it easier to see it at night. While your in there kind of deal.

I'll be going with white LEDs. And keeping the green inserts to keep it a similar OEM color. But brighter.

For those that put leds in the cluster. How much of a brightness range do they have on the dimmer? I'd think it wouldn't have a huge range brightness.
 
#3,575 ·
Does your cluster still use the T5 dash bulbs? Someone recommended these after installing them on his Mk1. Said they were dimmable. I bought a 10 pack but haven't tried them yet. Figured they were cheap enough to roll the dice. There are color choices and even an option to get the sockets if you want.

T5 LED Bulbs

I read somewhere that you want to keep the incandescent Alt light as it is part of the exciter wire circuit. If you put an LED in there, then I think you need to add a resistor. Again, this is Mk1. Yours may be different.
 
#3,576 · (Edited)
Maybe so on the mk1. The Mk2 are all led minus the hi beams. they didn't have blue LEDs at that time. So it's a bulb and cover. But good to know for the future. If I do a mk1 cluster.

Led exiciter/alt can be swapped out easily on Mk2. I've done it before. Just a standard five volt led.

I'm just swapping out the 3 bulbs in the back that light up the cluster.
 
#3,580 ·
Said it be done two weeks ago.
I got a Mercedes and after several weeks and then a year, I told him to pick it up. It needed more work that it's worth. Communication issue on the Engine CAN BUS. He kept telling me to work on it when I can.

He's now dead and I have a car I can't get rid of. Whatever happens, don't die before he is done.
 
#3,578 · (Edited)
Vehicle Gas Motor vehicle Auto part Metal


Here's that jetta coupe g60 i posted in the bat thread - I see they also had a similar idea for the intercooler.

I wonder if boxing the top of mine would help. Its just winter time and meh lol.

once it warms up ill figure out the intercooler. Im thinking the same setup. I liked it.

Just need to get the replacement intercooler welded up. The one without g-lader shrapnel in it lol.


on a side note - I bet that car ran HOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT. Non shrouded mk1 rad, oi. Good luck in traffic in summer. would check for a bad head gasket.
 
#3,579 · (Edited)
Wood Nickel Nail Engineering Metal


Well, I'll do my best to be patient on the head. This maybe just how machine shops work.

But when I get the head back. I got stainless studs and hardware for the coolant flanges, with a hex keys. Stainless Valve cover nuts as well.

with my unique setup with the rear battery. I need the best possible ground for the ECU on the head.
 
#3,581 ·
But when I get the head back. I got stainless studs and hardware for the coolant flanges, with a hex keys. Stainless Valve cover nuts as well.
Don't be mislead with stainless. There is, of course, cheap stainless that rusts. Even decent quality stainless is more prone to galling up like nobody's business. And stainless tends to have poor tensile strength; stainless fasteners snap off more easily.

That said, I am a fan of using stainless on non critical locations, especially under the car. I tend to lather it up with lots of anti seize is all.


I got a Mercedes and after several weeks and then a year, I told him to pick it up. It needed more work that it's worth. Communication issue on the Engine CAN BUS. He kept telling me to work on it when I can.
I totally get that my mechanic or machinist (or any tradesperson, for that matter) doesn't have a crystal ball. But please pick up the phone periodically and let me know what is going on. Don't string me out for two years and then suddenly decide you're not doing the work I hired you to do. Call me when you run into something unexpected, or even if you haven't gotten to it so that I -- the customer -- can make an intelligent decision as to what the next step might be. Otherwise, I might just die on you. :sleep:
 
#3,583 ·
Don't be mislead with stainless. There is, of course, cheap stainless that rusts. Even decent quality stainless is more prone to galling up like nobody's business. And stainless tends to have poor tensile strength; stainless fasteners snap off more easily.

That said, I am a fan of using stainless on non critical locations, especially under the car. I tend to lather it up with lots of anti seize is all.




I totally get that my mechanic or machinist (or any tradesperson, for that matter) doesn't have a crystal ball. But please pick up the phone periodically and let me know what is going on. Don't string me out for two years and then suddenly decide you're not doing the work I hired you to do. Call me when you run into something unexpected, or even if you haven't gotten to it so that I -- the customer -- can make an intelligent decision as to what the next step might be. Otherwise, I might just die on you. :sleep:

Could go zinc as well for the flange studs. It's just the steel ones get so nasty after awhile. If you believe zinc is a better alt for that. I got yellow zinc studs. Will look pretty against the aluminum.

I'm open to feedback on this one.

I love stainless for grounds, so they will get used in time. If I don't run them. Studs were only $5. Belmetric has good quality stuff though. So I'm open to going zinc.
 
#3,582 ·
Without a shadow of a doubt you are right. I usually send text messages, especially if there is bad new. Text is way faster and the more you are on the phone, the more mistakes you will make in the back. Unless you have a full support staff.

I tell clients I no longer work on project cars. If there is a laundry list of things to do, I pick a few, fix them, then make another appointment. Why? Because it ends up never getting done. Many customers say I can have the car for a few days, I say, no way, you will get your car back the same day [or the day it was scheduled to be done]. People do not understand that the next day is full and so is the next 6 weeks. If I do not get everything done, I am so screwed and then I am on the phone all day long which makes it worst. I don't work weekends, but I do half the year so I can keep up with the screw ups that happen during the week.

It is all too easy to make a call. It's too easy to talk to the client to see what their expectations are. It's too easy to say, I will not work on your car between jobs because that will never happen.

Satisfying customers is not that difficult. If the client is difficult and you can't seem to work with them, fire them. It's really that simple. People do not fire me but I have had a few. I think it's weird that people will wait 6 weeks on the schedule for me to work on their car. I certainly am not the only butcher in the world.
 
#3,584 ·
This is just one amateur's opinion. I lean toward zinc plating (and anti-seize) over stainless anywhere there can be stress on the fastener. I see the coolant flange being one of those places. The aluminum gets hot, expands at a greater rate than the stainless, and suddenly the bolt has more tensile stress than you torqued it to at assembly. Maybe not an issue at first, but after many cycles... doink.

Judging by Google, there are about a million different opinions on the subject...
 
#3,585 ·
This is just one amateur's opinion. I lean toward zinc plating (and anti-seize) over stainless anywhere there can be stress on the fastener. I see the coolant flange being one of those places. The aluminum gets hot, expands at a greater rate than the stainless, and suddenly the bolt has more tensile stress than you torqued it to at assembly. Maybe not an issue at first, but after many cycles... doink.

Judging by Google, there are about a million different opinions on the subject...
Well I can't really run anti seize on the ground stud. But the other 3 studs. Yah I could. Yes there is, and tons of conflicting information about it.

I originally got zinc but then figured as they do stainless exhaust studs. Why not do stainless coolant flange studs.

I do think the yellow zinc bolts on the aluminum valve cover would look super slick. Zinc should handle the coolant decently as well. From the flange.
 
#3,586 ·
I could be overthinking it too and stainless might be fine. To me, zinc fasteners are proven (though they will eventually corrode) while stainless feels kinda experimental. Again, just my $0.02.

An antioxidant compound might be helpful on ground studs, especially against aluminum. Frankly, it would be beneficial for any electrical connection.
 
#3,588 · (Edited)
Hmmm... Idk what to do now. I suppose I could just go with a NOS ABF block, and only swap out the pistons. Leaving the crank be as the factory set it - and opting out for oil squirters due to swapping to forged pistons.

Ill see If I can find another local block, but this time check the end play. @she happen to know anyone with a 1.8l block laying around that might be good?
 
#3,589 ·
I have a 1.8 digi block, 123k or 124k miles. From an 89 Jetta Carat, prob RV engine code I haven't checked.

I also have a 1.8 8v CIS engine (code is RD i think, 87 gli) but I'd kinda like to keep that setup to tinker with.

The 1.8 is going to be taken apart I just haven't found the time to pull it along with the transmission. School/work and whatnot etc
 
#3,592 ·
Man, that's a real bummer. Unfortunately, that's always a risk when dealing with used engines. On the positive side, that's why having a shop check it out should always be the first step in the process, before you put any money into it. Don't look at it like a setback -- you just saved yourself a ton of time and money by doing the right thing at the start. You're not 'THAT GUY' who built his engine, put it in the car, and then found out the block is toast. Sure, you had some time in tearing the engine down, but think about how much you learned -- and how much faster/easier the next one will be.

Remember, this is NOT a setback. It's just a step in the process. The next block you find will be better!
 
#3,593 ·
totally - still ended up with the head, and gained experience. Very little money spent. I just need to take a mini break is all. Ill feel a tad better once I have the head back at home. Were at a good spot to pause so. Lets do that and come back at it after we do taxes. Assuming she is gonna be awhile before they get to that engine.
 
#3,594 · (Edited)
Potential update - I think a local person has a 1.8l mk2 NOS short block. I will look into that, as its a once in a blue moon deal.

Edit: $1200 but it's brand spanking nos and fresh. Just too rich for my blood. I'd go with the and for $750 before id get that. But if anyone needs a brand new block. Cascade has one
 
#3,595 ·
When I started looking for an ABA last summer there was a listing on Ebay, someone was selling NOS blocks they said they picked up from a dealer or something. Price was about $1200 also. I was tempted for a minute because NOS, but the pics looked like cropped stock photos. Looking a little closer, the block configuration didn't look like an ABA. Turns out it was the European 2.0 equivalent (I can't remember what it's called) to the ABA. Didn't say that anywhere in the ad though. I became concerned finding parts could really be a challenge.

Add shipping to the east coast, and I realized I could pick up a used engine and have it bored for half that amount. Even with the cost of new pistons, I'd have a zero mile block and still be way ahead of the game budget-wise.
 
#3,598 · (Edited)
pretty sure 16v are flat top - 8v are dished for standard cr.





so they are in a nut shell correct - its a 8v 2.0 - same platform as a aba. just from europe.


and in their listing they even say

"New Old Stock VW 2E 2.0 Short block, euro code, but similar to AGG, ADY and ABF. Pictures are of our actual item, we have 10 left in stock as "
 
#3,600 · (Edited)
Got the new mk2 CE2 Cluster wiring harness wired in, and new LEDs into the new junkyard cluster. Will report back when it's dark out.

Will see if it holds, but odometer and trip meter is working. Last one made it ten miles lol.



Side note: Think we found another gen 2 g-lader to buy for cheap - see if its savable... something something "the glader butcher". --- stay tuned.
 
#3,601 · (Edited)
Vehicle Speedometer Plant Motor vehicle Steering part



Yup - appears to be good now for the new junkyard clusters voltage regulator. My others have done the same in the past.

140mph speedo appears to be working just fine, yay!

So glad that flashing problem is gone, it was getting annoying.

super happy to now have a good spare cluster thats in MPH. :)

will show off the new led's once its dark out.
 
#3,603 · (Edited)
Automotive lighting Measuring instrument Gas Audio equipment Gauge



Vehicle Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Gauge Car


Led cluster bulbs are in. They Have a nice range to them on the dimmer.

I Will need to upgrade one of the vdo 52mm gauge bulbs to a led. So it's more visible at the lower settings. Otherwise I dig it.

The one photo is on a dim setting for a better pic. Looks better in person.



Of course I installed one led backwards and didn't notice it till just now. ..

But yah. I went with cool white LEDs. This mimics the incandescent bulbs the best. Oem plus.
 
#3,605 · (Edited)
Automotive lighting Automotive design Speedometer Gauge Entertainment

Stock ^

Vehicle Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Gauge Car


Ultrabrightleds cool white LEDs. ^^


These Pictures do not do justice for the led - but you get the idea. I like em, they look more like the factory ones in person.



The issue ive had with the old cluster bulbs is with how bright other cars are. Would end up struggling to see the speedo and tacho.

The stock bulbs had a wider pattern - but these are visible in traffic at night.

I'd Rather be able to see better in traffic at night.
 
#3,606 · (Edited)
@PA Rocco now im not trying to say your wrong - but thinking back to our talk on SS on alum. Its Common, almost standard practice to run stainless bolts on the g-lader cases.

Perhaps gulling is more related to heat? I think I will run the zinc coolant flange studs, as vw runs zinc manifold bolts for the head.

If I ever get my head back that is lol, oi.

But - Of the 3 cases that had stainless hardware, all was fine thread wise. Just was thinking about that as I breaking down the case from that auto wreck yesterday.


Side note: Odometer and tripmeter appear to be hanging in there on this cluster. 5v volt reg looks to be fine now. 🤘 The little things are nice to have.
 
#3,617 ·
@PA Rocco now im not trying to say your wrong - but thinking back to our talk on SS on alum. Its Common, almost standard practice to run stainless bolts on the g-lader cases.
Oh, there are definitely applications for SS hardware. And, if you know there’s a proven history of success, there’s no reason not to. Where I get nervous is in structural or high stress locations, especially when it’s experimental.
 
#3,607 · (Edited)
@briano1234 ive done my best to research and attempt to fix the dim glowing turn signal led issue on the cluster

Ive swapped out multiple clusters and same issue - so its not a cluster issue. New hazard switch. New turn signal stalk, new fuse box, new relays.

(not at once, just over time and issue still there)

any idea's where to look next?

Are the aftermarket relays known to do this?
 
#3,608 · (Edited)
Automotive tire Hood Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive design

stock (photo by @tinygiant )


Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Motor vehicle Metal

"upgraded pedal clip"


Here's something you all will like. Got rid of the janky clip and wavy washer for the throttle pedal.

Im sure I could get the factory clip to work better, but its a bear to deal with under the dash.


Went with a 5/16 clip and a m8? Washer.

That took a bunch of side to side play out of it.

1/4" is too small, 3/8" is too big, 5/16 is a bit oversized.

A 7mm c-cip would be most ideal. Kind of an odd size, as it wasn't design for a snap ring.


At the cost of $2 shipped for a 7mm clip, likely worth it for a better fitment. Now that I know what should be the better fitting size on it.
 
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