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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've always wanted to do one of these threads. Though I'm not sure I'll be doing it "right".

Anyways, the story goes I "inherited" my wife's old 2005 GTI 1.8T after I bought her a new 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI SEL. My commute as of this writing is roughly 25 miles one way, so the decent mileage is appreciated especially coming from a 2013 Audi S4 (that I traded in to get us the Sportwagen.)

"But Groundskeeper!" you say. "If mileage is important, why aren't YOU driving the TDI?" Because she likes the shiny new car better and because #marriageAmIrite, that's why.

Anyways, always looking to find the positive in everything I decided I was gonna take this opportunity to play around with the car. Make some "reasonable improvements" to it as it is now my daily.

The hardest part about this is that since it is my daily I can't have it down for too long. So I have to factor that in when deciding on modifications. My soft deadlines for acquiring parts and doing the work are usually long/holiday weekends or days when we can borrow a third car.

Along with this I'd been keeping a spreadsheet that's helped me keep track of the best prices that I could find when price shopping around for items that I'd been wanting to get - everywhere from the usual vendors, Amazon, eBay, craigslist to the classified forums. At the same time I keep slowly stashing away cash here and there to be able to afford the parts as well as the tools necessary to install them.

So here it is at the start.
Year: 2005
Model: GTI
Engine: AWP 1.8T 20v
Transmission: 02J 5-speed manual
Color: UniBlack
Wheels: 17" Ariettas (I'm not sure if they're 7" or 7.5" wide. I'm think the former but I've seen others say the latter)

My MAIN goal is to get it to ride better. Meaning suspension and driveability improvements are top priority. I probably won't do any crazy engine modifications. At most MAYBE a K04-001 if my KO3S goes. Otherwise, this thing is supposed to just be a daily driver that's fun. Notice how I put the "daily driver" BEFORE the "fun".



Stay Tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Transmission Swap

First up is what I'm already in the middle of: an 02M 6-speed transmission swap. I always wanted to do a 6-speed swap into this car. So I started looking for an affordable setup. I ended up finding one from a guy here on Vortex who was parting out his son's 337. It came with the transmission, the starter, the axles, the hubs in the knuckles and the power steering line.

Mileage I'm unsure of, but it looked to be in decent shape. Unfortunately at the time of my acquiring it, I didn't have the most storage space around so I had to keep it outside under the deck in a garbage bag to "protect" it from the elements. It took on some surface rust and insignificant blemishes but overall it seems to be all right. Except for the power steering line - the exterior looks a bit rough. I'm not sure of the inside of the hard line but I might not want to take that chance. I might just try to finagle my existing 02J line for now.

AFTER I had gotten the 02M I started doing some research on common issues with the transmission. Of course there's the shift forks thing, and the input shaft bearing thing. The latter scared me the worst as I HATE things that require super precise settings. Fortunately my transmission doesn't seem to be exhibiting any of the axial play (maybe because of the tapered bearings of these older 02M transmissions vs the straight bearings of the newer ones? Who knows . . .) at least for now. As for the forks, I just went with the newer steel forks instead of trying to drill and tap the old ones.

I also figured while I have it apart, I would put in a Wavetrac Limited Slip Differential. I know, I know if I stay stock engine setup I'm probably not gonna justify the LSD. But it's something to have SHOULD I fall off the straight and narrow path and decide to up the power in the future.

So that's where I'm at so far. I'll try to upload pics of the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Transmission Swap

So my time with our borrowed third vehicle is fast coming to a close and i'm only half way done.

I'm having a friend of mine grind the rivets off of the stock diff so i can swap the ring gear onto the Wavetrac. After which i still have to set in the new bearings.

In the meantime i figured could get along with a final few things i still need to do to complete this swap:
  • Repair the CV Boots on the axles
  • Try to clean off the rust on one of the axle flanges
  • Install new input shaft seal
  • Install clutch and flywheel
That last part i was trying to knock out tonight. BUT wouldn't you know it? The OEM LuK DMF and clutch/PP setup i bought didn't come with hardware!

So now my issue is: which pressure plate bolts do i get? which flywheel bolts do I get? I see from threads like this there are some discrepancies: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5896408-ARP-Flywheel-bolt-Torque-spec Anybody know the proper part numbers? Looking on ECS they're saying N90665001 for the flywheel bolt and N90308607 for the pressure plate bolts.

Here's what the LuK DMF032 looks like (upper right obvs).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Transmission Swap

So my time with our borrowed third vehicle is fast coming to a close and i'm only half way done.
So now my issue is: which pressure plate bolts do i get? which flywheel bolts do I get? I see from threads like this there are some discrepancies: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5896408-ARP-Flywheel-bolt-Torque-spec Anybody know the proper part numbers? Looking on ECS they're saying N90665001 for the flywheel bolt and N90308607 for the pressure plate bolts.
So I just called up my local VW dealership and gave them an old 337 VIN I found online (cause that's how they ensure part matching accuracy) of 9BWDE61J624055096.

They showed Flywheel bolts in stock but no pressure plate bolts in stock. But here were the part numbers they showed for those:

Stock Flywheel Bolts part number: N90665001
Stock Pressure Plate Bolts part number: N90725301

So the Flywheel Bolts match up to what they showed on ECS (I imagine it might be the same for all AWP 1.8Ts?) but the PP bolts differ. I'm gonna call a few others to see if they by chance happen to have it in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Transmission Swap



Got the clutch installed tonight. The bolts i got from the Audi dealership near my work fit perfectly.

The part numbers are as follows:
Flywheel bolt: N90665001 - $2.50/ea - Needed six
Pressure Plate bolt: N90308607 - $0.98/ea - Needed six

I put loctite on the PP bolts and tightened them to the specified 22Nm but that seemed a bit "weak". The Flywheel was 60Nm plus a 1/4 turn. I barely eeked out the quarter turns on those.

Also got this ready (Wavetrac on the left and stock open diff on the right):



The wife is gonna be out of the house tomorrow so i'm gonna try to do the ring and the new bearings in the oven. Hopefully it doesn't leave a lasting smell. Also we'll see if the "freezing the diff" idea works to help with the ring and/or bearings.

Gonna try to dremel the old outer races out of the trans case tomorrow night as well and set the proper preload.

Once that's done then it's just the new flange seals and input shaft seal and the whole thing can go back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Transmission Swap

Gonna try to dremel the old outer races out of the trans case tomorrow night as well and set the proper preload.
So i was just looking around and i see some folks recommending super chilling the bearing races to get them to come out.

Here's a product: CRC Freeze Off.

This might be preferable since i have to drive in the new race without a shim to check play and then pull it back out without harming it and then insert the proper shim and then drive the race back in.

I've seen recommendations to cut two diametrically opposed notches into the circle where the race goes and that helps removing it. But 1.) does that compromise anything? 2.) i have a pilot bearing puller and i can't seem to grab onto anything as is so the puller might be useless anyways.

Think i'll try out the freezing method. Hopefully it won't ruin anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Transmission Swap

Good and bad news.

Good news: The oven thing worked like an absolute charm. I put the ring gear into the oven and got it to 200F (with my particular oven i had to set it to 220 so the gear itself could get to 200. Took maybe 30 min.) and it dropped right onto the diff. The bearings i had put in at 420 (#blazeItYo) to get them up to 400F for about 30 min. I could only get them up to about 340ish degrees but that was more than enough to get them to drop on.







Bad news: I was trying to get the ARP bolts into the diff so i could torque them down. I got eight of them fully seated but not yet torqued. The other four bolts . . . well . . .

Two of them stripped on me while already halfway pulled into the diff body. And i mean i'm trying to tighten the nut and it's just spinning in place. The bolt isn't spinning, the nut just isn't advancing down the threads.

Then i got one other bolt that's also halfway in there and it's not even accepting a nut. Like the threads are jacked that nuts can't even get started.

And finally I have one empty hole in the diff that can be filled by my last remaining bolt that I believe is good but the remaining nuts have bad threads. They won't even start on any bolts!

Just one of a few that found in the threads of the problematic nuts/bolts.


SO CLOSE!!


So now i gotta see if i can find/purchase individual ARP 02M diff bolts. If not then i'll have to see if by chance any dealerships got bolts. Cause at this point fuggit. I just need to get this thing done!

On top of that i'll have to cut/drill/grind the bad bolts/nuts and hammer/punch em out and try again with new ones.

And i haven't even gotten to the old outer races yet. Though i did try the CRC Freeze Off. It didn't work for me. I'll just dremel them off.

Srsly, why's it always stupid little things like this? :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Transmission Swap

Thanks for the suggestion.

I called them up and for the 204-3003 kit (the 02M ring gear bolt kit) they got me a price of ~$8/bolt and ~$5/nut. So the nut bolt combo times the 4 I need would be about $52.00. And then the shipping would be another $20 or so. So I'd be pushing over half of what it cost for only a third of the product if I just ordered a new set. Plus given my "hesitation" to trust these bolts to thread properly I might want a few backups just in case.

I called around to see if any shops might have some. None of them had it in stock. I was about to resign myself to order from ECSTuning again but they're currently in a "ships in 6 days" so I'd probably be out another whole week.

I called up local speed shop PTuning here in NoVa and they're able to get me a set by Monday for about $135.

So in the meantime I'll focus on cutting out the bad nuts and hammering out the bad bolts, doing what I can to set the preload for the diff races in the case and replacing the CV Boots on the axles.

:( . . . *sigh* . . . never try to Game Jam your daily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Transmission Swap



Got the bolts out.

Just took a dremel with just a regular ol cuttin wheel and a hammer and punch to it.

I cut the nut in half to weaken it so i could get it off the bolt and then just hit the bolt back out with a hammer and a punch.

Now onto the outer races in the trans case. THIS is a monumental pain. I don't have a welder. The Freeze Off thing didn't work. Where can i get the bearing puller for this situation? The Kukko 21-7 type with the thin grabbing jaws. I see SKF has something like this too but that's crazy expensive too! What do?!

Also i found out that the axle fange seals are different sizes. So i'll need to get that as well.
 
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