Thought I'd post up some pics and some of my experiences with the new GTIs first oil change.
First off here's what you'll need:
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5l or 5 quarts of VW 502.00 oil
I got a 5l jug of Pentosin for about $30 through my favorite local shop. If you're so inclined there are more adventurous folks trying VW 503 and even VW 504 european oils, but they're pretty hard to find and very expensive - not to mention we can't really take advantage of the extended service intervals here in the US.
Update - Here's a list of worldwide VW 502 approved oils. Most of theese aren't widely available in the US but it's helpful nonetheless. Keep in mind that if an oil meets VW 502 spec it will probably say so on the bottle.
![]()
MANN HU 719/6x / VW 06D-115-562 Oil Filter
This one was $11 through my favorite local shop.
Update - Alternatively you can use the Hengst Filter
![]()
Hengst E27H D125 Oil Filter
This is the one I used for 20K service for no other reason than it's what my local shop had in stock.
![]()
Extra VW 502.00 Oil
I got this extra 1l bottle of Pentosynth for top offs and just in case I needed more than the 5l fill.
![]()
VW N 908 132 01 - 19mm Drain Plug
If you're changing oil the conventional way, or if you want to make sure the extractor got everything replacing the drain plug is recommended.
Oil Extractor Of course
Jack
Jack Stands 1 pair is all you really need
T27 Torx Driver For removing the sound shield
3/8" Ratchet For multiple things
36mm 3/8" Drive Socket By far the easiest way to remove/install the oil filter.
Funnel For filling the oil of course
Milk Carton Or a suitable drain pan
Rubbber/Latex Gloves Griots has some really nice heavy duty latex ones that don't disintigrate as soon as you brush them against something.
Shop/Disposable Towels For cleaning up little mishaps, checking the oil level, etc.
Update - I just did the 10,000 mile service and the oil filter drain seemed much harder to do this time. I'm going to recommend the special Oil Drain tool if you plan on doing all your own changes. Not only will you have no worries about breaking anything, it will keep you from accidentally making a mess like I did.
1) Before you start make sure that the engine is warm, but not too hot. This will make the oil much easier to drain and it's especially crucial when using an oil extractor.
![]()
2) Get your oil extractor ready. I've been meaning to try the oil extractor route for a while and this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage.
![]()
3) The Pela comes with 2 different size Inset tubes that attach to the main tube. I was able to *just* fit the large tube all the way down the dipstick tube.
![]()
4) Attach the dipstick tube to the main tube and start pumping, pretty soon the oil will start to flow all by itself.
![]()
5) Once the oil pan is pretty much dry you'll start to see bubbles. Make sure the tube is all the way down in the oil pan, you may also have to pump the handle a bit more as the extractor starts to lose suction.
![]()
6) I like to add about .25 to .5 liters of fresh clean oil at this point to make sure all the used crap is out of the oil pan. Once you see the extracted oil's color start to change you're pretty much good. Remove the oil extractor.
![]()
7) At this point it's time to jack up the front of the car so you can get to the oil filter. I suppose you could use ramps but I didn't think of it before draining the oil, and I didn't want any sort of incline having the potential of getting less oil with the extractor. If you're lucky enough to have a lift, well then no worries. Jacking is a PITA because it seems that the frame rail is now the only safe place to support the car.
Update - I found that all I really needed was one jackstand at the front right jack point, jacking up the whole front end wasn't necessary.
8) Once the front end is up you'll need to remove a grand total of 8 T25 torx screws to get the bottom cover off.
![]()
9) Here is the oil filter housing. Unscrew the drain cover.
![]()
10) Once the cap is off you'll see the orange dain valve.
![]()
11) Now it's time for the milk carton. Cut that sucker in half and use the bottom as a drain pan for the oil filter.
![]()
12) Once you've got the milk carton in place push the orange valve up and to the side using a blunt object - like your Torx driver.
![]()
13) When the oil filter housing is pretty much empty reseat the drain valve by pushing it back over, it should pop back down into place. Now use the 36mm socket to unscrew the filter housing. I got the 36mm socket from AST Tool for about $23 - it's item #2136
![]()
14) Remove the old filter by pulling/twisting it off, and remove the old O-Ring just below the threads of the housing, inside the lip. I like to use some shop towels and give the whole housing a good wipe down so it's nice and clean before putting the new filter and O-Ring in. The filter's pretty tight but you should feel when it's all the way seated.
Update - I think it may be a good idea to put some fresh oil in the filter housing before screwing it back on. It seemed to require ALOT less top up after the initial fill when I did this the last time. You'd be suprised how much oil that little housing holds, just be sure to reseat the drain valve before filling, and the housing attaches at an angle so don't put too much oil in there
![]()
15) Reinstall the filter housing, torque to 25.5 NM.
16) Reinstall the bottom cover.
17) Remove the jackstands and lower the car
![]()
18) Filler Up. 5l was just about perfect for me but I recommend putting checking after about 4.5l or so. Once it looks like the level is good run the car for a bit and then shut it off and check the level again. You'll probably need to add a bit more once the oil circulates back into the filter housing (unless you put some oil in before putting it back on, in which case you won't need as much).
The nice part of using the extractor is that cleanups a snap. I can simply pour the oil from milk carton into the extractor, then just pour the oil from the extractor back into the original 5l oil container for recycling.
19) Reset the service reminder.
For vehicles with MFI:
For vehicles without MFI:
Update - VAG-COM Instructions
I just recently got a Micro-CAN VAG-COM and did the 10,000 mile service. At the 10,000 mile service you need to adapt the SRI (Service Reminder Interval) from 5,000 mile service intervals to 10,000 mile service intervals.
To perform the mileage adaptation:
You may also need to adapt the service interval days:
You can also reset the service reminder with the VAG-COM
Modified by bfourney at 10:19 AM 11-8-2006 - Fixed links but with smaller pics
![]()
Modified by bfourney at 9:25 PM 1-23-2007 - Now with bigger pics
![]()
Modified by bfourney at 11:29 PM 1-28-2007 - Now with VAG-COM procedures & updated info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Modified by bfourney at 11:55 PM 10-8-2007 - Now with even BIGGER pics (thanks Google!), updated some info
Modified by bfourney at 1:25 AM 10-8-2007
Modified by bfourney at 1:53 AM 10-8-2007
First off here's what you'll need:
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
5l or 5 quarts of VW 502.00 oil
I got a 5l jug of Pentosin for about $30 through my favorite local shop. If you're so inclined there are more adventurous folks trying VW 503 and even VW 504 european oils, but they're pretty hard to find and very expensive - not to mention we can't really take advantage of the extended service intervals here in the US.
Update - Here's a list of worldwide VW 502 approved oils. Most of theese aren't widely available in the US but it's helpful nonetheless. Keep in mind that if an oil meets VW 502 spec it will probably say so on the bottle.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
MANN HU 719/6x / VW 06D-115-562 Oil Filter
This one was $11 through my favorite local shop.
Update - Alternatively you can use the Hengst Filter
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
Hengst E27H D125 Oil Filter
This is the one I used for 20K service for no other reason than it's what my local shop had in stock.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
Extra VW 502.00 Oil
I got this extra 1l bottle of Pentosynth for top offs and just in case I needed more than the 5l fill.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
VW N 908 132 01 - 19mm Drain Plug
If you're changing oil the conventional way, or if you want to make sure the extractor got everything replacing the drain plug is recommended.
Oil Extractor Of course
Jack
Jack Stands 1 pair is all you really need
T27 Torx Driver For removing the sound shield
3/8" Ratchet For multiple things
36mm 3/8" Drive Socket By far the easiest way to remove/install the oil filter.
Funnel For filling the oil of course
Milk Carton Or a suitable drain pan
Rubbber/Latex Gloves Griots has some really nice heavy duty latex ones that don't disintigrate as soon as you brush them against something.
Shop/Disposable Towels For cleaning up little mishaps, checking the oil level, etc.
Update - I just did the 10,000 mile service and the oil filter drain seemed much harder to do this time. I'm going to recommend the special Oil Drain tool if you plan on doing all your own changes. Not only will you have no worries about breaking anything, it will keep you from accidentally making a mess like I did.
1) Before you start make sure that the engine is warm, but not too hot. This will make the oil much easier to drain and it's especially crucial when using an oil extractor.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
2) Get your oil extractor ready. I've been meaning to try the oil extractor route for a while and this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
3) The Pela comes with 2 different size Inset tubes that attach to the main tube. I was able to *just* fit the large tube all the way down the dipstick tube.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
4) Attach the dipstick tube to the main tube and start pumping, pretty soon the oil will start to flow all by itself.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
5) Once the oil pan is pretty much dry you'll start to see bubbles. Make sure the tube is all the way down in the oil pan, you may also have to pump the handle a bit more as the extractor starts to lose suction.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
6) I like to add about .25 to .5 liters of fresh clean oil at this point to make sure all the used crap is out of the oil pan. Once you see the extracted oil's color start to change you're pretty much good. Remove the oil extractor.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
7) At this point it's time to jack up the front of the car so you can get to the oil filter. I suppose you could use ramps but I didn't think of it before draining the oil, and I didn't want any sort of incline having the potential of getting less oil with the extractor. If you're lucky enough to have a lift, well then no worries. Jacking is a PITA because it seems that the frame rail is now the only safe place to support the car.
Update - I found that all I really needed was one jackstand at the front right jack point, jacking up the whole front end wasn't necessary.
8) Once the front end is up you'll need to remove a grand total of 8 T25 torx screws to get the bottom cover off.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
9) Here is the oil filter housing. Unscrew the drain cover.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
10) Once the cap is off you'll see the orange dain valve.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
11) Now it's time for the milk carton. Cut that sucker in half and use the bottom as a drain pan for the oil filter.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
12) Once you've got the milk carton in place push the orange valve up and to the side using a blunt object - like your Torx driver.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
13) When the oil filter housing is pretty much empty reseat the drain valve by pushing it back over, it should pop back down into place. Now use the 36mm socket to unscrew the filter housing. I got the 36mm socket from AST Tool for about $23 - it's item #2136
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
14) Remove the old filter by pulling/twisting it off, and remove the old O-Ring just below the threads of the housing, inside the lip. I like to use some shop towels and give the whole housing a good wipe down so it's nice and clean before putting the new filter and O-Ring in. The filter's pretty tight but you should feel when it's all the way seated.
Update - I think it may be a good idea to put some fresh oil in the filter housing before screwing it back on. It seemed to require ALOT less top up after the initial fill when I did this the last time. You'd be suprised how much oil that little housing holds, just be sure to reseat the drain valve before filling, and the housing attaches at an angle so don't put too much oil in there
15) Reinstall the filter housing, torque to 25.5 NM.
16) Reinstall the bottom cover.
17) Remove the jackstands and lower the car
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
18) Filler Up. 5l was just about perfect for me but I recommend putting checking after about 4.5l or so. Once it looks like the level is good run the car for a bit and then shut it off and check the level again. You'll probably need to add a bit more once the oil circulates back into the filter housing (unless you put some oil in before putting it back on, in which case you won't need as much).
The nice part of using the extractor is that cleanups a snap. I can simply pour the oil from milk carton into the extractor, then just pour the oil from the extractor back into the original 5l oil container for recycling.
19) Reset the service reminder.
For vehicles with MFI:
| Quote » |
| With the key out of the ignition - Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster. - While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “Service now!” message to appear on multi–functionscreen. Then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “m” (minutes) button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster. To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again - the display should indicate the future service by the message: “Service in 5,000 mi / 8,000 KM or 180 days or 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days” depending on Service Interval adaptation. |
For vehicles without MFI:
| Quote » |
| With the key out of the ignition - Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster. - While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “wrench” symbol to appear in the odometer display then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “MIN” button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster. To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again: The “wrench” symbol will appear together with the reset number of miles / kilometers you can drive until the service due date. The display changes after about 10 seconds. A “clock” symbol appears together with the reset number of days until the service due date. |
Update - VAG-COM Instructions
I just recently got a Micro-CAN VAG-COM and did the 10,000 mile service. At the 10,000 mile service you need to adapt the SRI (Service Reminder Interval) from 5,000 mile service intervals to 10,000 mile service intervals.
To perform the mileage adaptation:
| Quote » |
Select 17-Instruments Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 42 and select "Read" The window should read: "Minimum value mileage" and Min. Value Oil in 100 Miles The stored value should read "50" for 5000 mile intervals Enter "100" for 10000 mile intervals Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?" |
You may also need to adapt the service interval days:
| Quote » |
| Select 17-Instruments Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 49 and select "Read" The window should read: "minimum time interval" and Min. Value Insp. in 1 Days The stored value may read "180", if it does continue Enter "365" for 365 days Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?" |
You can also reset the service reminder with the VAG-COM
| Quote » |
| Select 17-Instruments Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 02 and select "Read" The window should read: "Service Reminder" and ServRemInd Closed Reset Enter "00" as the new value Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?" To verify the settings briefly press and hold the trip counter reset button until the display reads "Service in 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days". |
Modified by bfourney at 10:19 AM 11-8-2006 - Fixed links but with smaller pics
Modified by bfourney at 9:25 PM 1-23-2007 - Now with bigger pics
Modified by bfourney at 11:29 PM 1-28-2007 - Now with VAG-COM procedures & updated info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Modified by bfourney at 11:55 PM 10-8-2007 - Now with even BIGGER pics (thanks Google!), updated some info
Modified by bfourney at 1:25 AM 10-8-2007
Modified by bfourney at 1:53 AM 10-8-2007
