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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd post up some pics and some of my experiences with the new GTIs first oil change.
First off here's what you'll need:
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5l or 5 quarts of VW 502.00 oil
I got a 5l jug of Pentosin for about $30 through my favorite local shop. If you're so inclined there are more adventurous folks trying VW 503 and even VW 504 european oils, but they're pretty hard to find and very expensive - not to mention we can't really take advantage of the extended service intervals here in the US.
Update - Here's a list of worldwide VW 502 approved oils. Most of theese aren't widely available in the US but it's helpful nonetheless. Keep in mind that if an oil meets VW 502 spec it will probably say so on the bottle.
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MANN HU 719/6x / VW 06D-115-562 Oil Filter
This one was $11 through my favorite local shop.
Update - Alternatively you can use the Hengst Filter
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Hengst E27H D125 Oil Filter
This is the one I used for 20K service for no other reason than it's what my local shop had in stock.
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Extra VW 502.00 Oil
I got this extra 1l bottle of Pentosynth for top offs and just in case I needed more than the 5l fill.
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VW N 908 132 01 - 19mm Drain Plug
If you're changing oil the conventional way, or if you want to make sure the extractor got everything replacing the drain plug is recommended.
Oil Extractor Of course
Jack
Jack Stands 1 pair is all you really need
T27 Torx Driver For removing the sound shield
3/8" Ratchet For multiple things
36mm 3/8" Drive Socket By far the easiest way to remove/install the oil filter.
Funnel For filling the oil of course
Milk Carton Or a suitable drain pan
Rubbber/Latex Gloves Griots has some really nice heavy duty latex ones that don't disintigrate as soon as you brush them against something.
Shop/Disposable Towels For cleaning up little mishaps, checking the oil level, etc.
Update - I just did the 10,000 mile service and the oil filter drain seemed much harder to do this time. I'm going to recommend the special Oil Drain tool if you plan on doing all your own changes. Not only will you have no worries about breaking anything, it will keep you from accidentally making a mess like I did.
1) Before you start make sure that the engine is warm, but not too hot. This will make the oil much easier to drain and it's especially crucial when using an oil extractor.

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2) Get your oil extractor ready. I've been meaning to try the oil extractor route for a while and this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage.

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3) The Pela comes with 2 different size Inset tubes that attach to the main tube. I was able to *just* fit the large tube all the way down the dipstick tube.

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4) Attach the dipstick tube to the main tube and start pumping, pretty soon the oil will start to flow all by itself.

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5) Once the oil pan is pretty much dry you'll start to see bubbles. Make sure the tube is all the way down in the oil pan, you may also have to pump the handle a bit more as the extractor starts to lose suction.

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6) I like to add about .25 to .5 liters of fresh clean oil at this point to make sure all the used crap is out of the oil pan. Once you see the extracted oil's color start to change you're pretty much good. Remove the oil extractor.

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7) At this point it's time to jack up the front of the car so you can get to the oil filter. I suppose you could use ramps but I didn't think of it before draining the oil, and I didn't want any sort of incline having the potential of getting less oil with the extractor. If you're lucky enough to have a lift, well then no worries. Jacking is a PITA because it seems that the frame rail is now the only safe place to support the car.
Update - I found that all I really needed was one jackstand at the front right jack point, jacking up the whole front end wasn't necessary.

8) Once the front end is up you'll need to remove a grand total of 8 T25 torx screws to get the bottom cover off.

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9) Here is the oil filter housing. Unscrew the drain cover.

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10) Once the cap is off you'll see the orange dain valve.

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11) Now it's time for the milk carton. Cut that sucker in half and use the bottom as a drain pan for the oil filter.

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12) Once you've got the milk carton in place push the orange valve up and to the side using a blunt object - like your Torx driver.

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13) When the oil filter housing is pretty much empty reseat the drain valve by pushing it back over, it should pop back down into place. Now use the 36mm socket to unscrew the filter housing. I got the 36mm socket from AST Tool for about $23 - it's item #2136

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14) Remove the old filter by pulling/twisting it off, and remove the old O-Ring just below the threads of the housing, inside the lip. I like to use some shop towels and give the whole housing a good wipe down so it's nice and clean before putting the new filter and O-Ring in. The filter's pretty tight but you should feel when it's all the way seated.
Update - I think it may be a good idea to put some fresh oil in the filter housing before screwing it back on. It seemed to require ALOT less top up after the initial fill when I did this the last time. You'd be suprised how much oil that little housing holds, just be sure to reseat the drain valve before filling, and the housing attaches at an angle so don't put too much oil in there


15) Reinstall the filter housing, torque to 25.5 NM.

16) Reinstall the bottom cover.

17) Remove the jackstands and lower the car

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18) Filler Up. 5l was just about perfect for me but I recommend putting checking after about 4.5l or so. Once it looks like the level is good run the car for a bit and then shut it off and check the level again. You'll probably need to add a bit more once the oil circulates back into the filter housing (unless you put some oil in before putting it back on, in which case you won't need as much).
The nice part of using the extractor is that cleanups a snap. I can simply pour the oil from milk carton into the extractor, then just pour the oil from the extractor back into the original 5l oil container for recycling.

19) Reset the service reminder.
For vehicles with MFI:
Quote »
With the key out of the ignition
- Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster.
- While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “Service now!” message to appear on multi–functionscreen. Then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “m” (minutes) button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster.
To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again - the display should indicate the future service by
the message:
“Service in 5,000 mi / 8,000 KM or 180 days or 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days” depending on Service Interval adaptation.

For vehicles without MFI:
Quote »
With the key out of the ignition
- Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster.
- While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “wrench” symbol to appear in the odometer display then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “MIN” button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster.
To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again:
The “wrench” symbol will appear together with the reset number of miles / kilometers you can drive until the service due date. The display changes after about 10 seconds. A “clock” symbol appears together with the reset number of days until the service due date.


Update - VAG-COM Instructions
I just recently got a Micro-CAN VAG-COM and did the 10,000 mile service. At the 10,000 mile service you need to adapt the SRI (Service Reminder Interval) from 5,000 mile service intervals to 10,000 mile service intervals.
To perform the mileage adaptation:
Quote »

Select 17-Instruments
Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 42 and select "Read"
The window should read: "Minimum value mileage" and Min. Value Oil in 100 Miles
The stored value should read "50" for 5000 mile intervals
Enter "100" for 10000 mile intervals
Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"

You may also need to adapt the service interval days:
Quote »
Select 17-Instruments
Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 49 and select "Read"
The window should read: "minimum time interval" and Min. Value Insp. in 1 Days
The stored value may read "180", if it does continue
Enter "365" for 365 days
Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"

You can also reset the service reminder with the VAG-COM
Quote »
Select 17-Instruments
Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 02 and select "Read"
The window should read: "Service Reminder" and ServRemInd Closed Reset
Enter "00" as the new value
Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"
To verify the settings briefly press and hold the trip counter reset button until the display reads "Service in 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days".


Modified by bfourney at 10:19 AM 11-8-2006 - Fixed links but with smaller pics


Modified by bfourney at 9:25 PM 1-23-2007 - Now with bigger pics


Modified by bfourney at 11:29 PM 1-28-2007 - Now with VAG-COM procedures & updated info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Modified by bfourney at 11:55 PM 10-8-2007 - Now with even BIGGER pics (thanks Google!), updated some info

Modified by bfourney at 1:25 AM 10-8-2007


Modified by bfourney at 1:53 AM 10-8-2007
 

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Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (bfourney)

Quote, originally posted by bfourney Oil Extractor »

Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.

Modified by GTINC at 3:00 AM 11-8-2006

Modified by GTINC at 3:01 AM 11-8-2006


Modified by VWYankee at 1:16 PM 11-8-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (vw dan)

I couldn't find anything specifically for the GTI, and I hardly found anything on oil extraction. Also there was alot of talk about the special tool for draining the oil filter housing, etc but never any pics so I could see what I was up against. I also don't think any of the ones I saw told you how to reset the SRI.


Modified by VWYankee at 1:16 PM 11-8-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (GTINC)

GTINC said:
bfourney [B said:
Oil Extractor]
Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.

Modified by GTINC at 3:00 AM 11-8-2006[/B]

Huh?!
I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.
Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (gridcore)

Quote, originally posted by gridcore »
Awesome DIY. Where did you get the filter wrench and the oil extractor?

The Oil extractor info is in the post - this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage. I think I got it 10% off with coupon from a previous order.
Here's the link http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122
You can get them other places, maybe for less, but I had to order a bunch of car care stuff from them anyway.
I forgot to add the details on the filter wrench, it's made by AST Tool. It's milled out of a solid piece of aluminum so it's a little cheaper than the ones made by Hazet, etc. I think it was about $23
AST #2136
 

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Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (bfourney)

Quote, originally posted by bfourney »

Huh?!
I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.
Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.

Don't worry about it, man. It would be a concern with 20 year old cars that have run on conventional oil all their life, but with a new car that has sythetic in it from day one, there's no need to worry about sluge, or metal shavings...
*edit*
I've added this to the FAQ, so I'm also cleaning the thread up a bit. So, if posts are deleted it was simply for cleaning it up since now the pics work.



Modified by VWYankee at 1:08 PM 11-8-2006
 

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Re: (bfourney)

Quote, originally posted by bfourney »

The Oil extractor info is in the post - this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage. I think I got it 10% off with coupon from a previous order.
Here's the link http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122
You can get them other places, maybe for less, but I had to order a bunch of car care stuff from them anyway.
I forgot to add the details on the filter wrench, it's made by AST Tool. It's milled out of a solid piece of aluminum so it's a little cheaper than the ones made by Hazet, etc. I think it was about $23
AST #2136

Thank ya sir! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (VWYankee)

Quote, originally posted by VWYankee »

*edit*
I've added this to the FAQ, so I'm also cleaning the thread up a bit. So, if posts are deleted it was simply for cleaning it up since now the pics work.


Thanks man, I'll try to get some bigger better pics up in the meantime.
Anybody know if imageshack accounts expire,bandwith runs out, etc.?
 

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Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (bfourney)

Nice write-up. That is how I change my oil on my old ML320 and C320. The Benz is even easier because the oil filter is on top. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif This is also how I will do my oil changes on the GTI. Good job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (bfourney)

bfourney said:
GTINC said:
bfourney [B said:
Oil Extractor]
Quote »

Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.

Modified by GTINC at 3:00 AM 11-8-2006[/B]

Huh?!
I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.
Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.

hey - great DIY man. thx alot for the pics and instructions. i am considering gathering all of these items and taking a crack at changing the oil for the first time in my '06 GLI over Thanksgiving.
one quick question from a total newb to car maintenance ... i understand the concept behind running .5L of oil through the engine in order to make sure that all of the "bad" oil is properly extracted prior to adding new oil. just to be clear .... procedurally, would i (1) extract all oil until i see bubbles (2) add .5L of fresh oil (3) extract the .5L that i just added and then (4) proceed with the rest of the instructions? i guess my main concern is should there be an additional step that i need to take in between steps (2) and (3) described above? or is it really that simple?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY (Texas_GLI)

That's all there is to it, once all the oils out just add a bit more until you see fresh looking oil starting to come out. You can use this method using the extractor or draining the regular way, it's just easier to see the difference with the extractor.

Quote, originally posted by Texas_GLI »

one quick question from a total newb to car maintenance ... i understand the concept behind running .5L of oil through the engine in order to make sure that all of the "bad" oil is properly extracted prior to adding new oil. just to be clear .... procedurally, would i (1) extract all oil until i see bubbles (2) add .5L of fresh oil (3) extract the .5L that i just added and then (4) proceed with the rest of the instructions? i guess my main concern is should there be an additional step that i need to take in between steps (2) and (3) described above? or is it really that simple?
 
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