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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys just wanted to introduce myself, name’s Eric I have had this car for about 1.5 years now and it has just sat collecting dust. The car is a 1984 GTI i got it as a shell from a family friend who was going to do a vr6 swap. I’m soon getting my license and want to have a second car to drive so I’m going to get the GTI finished finally! One thing i want everyone to know is that im in HIGH SCHOOL yet so its hard working on the car because its at my dads house and the cold weather makes it challenging to get out there and tinker:(. Considering i have everything plus some to get the car road worthy i am pushing to have the car finished by the mk1 madness

My plans consist of fixing all of the rust, weld new bump supports in, shave the bay, repaint it white, aba swap, coilovers and a nice polished set of wheels.


Everyone likes pics right?





So yeah im basically starting out with a bare shell:rolleyes:but i have just about everything i need to make it complete.



Basically all of the rust on the car, is above the stut tower a little on the floor pans and the rear apron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Since the PO of my car cut out the side mounts to do a "vr" swap i bought a donor car a couple of weeks ago. i bought it to get the bumper supports off of it because i thought it would be stronger welding in the whole section rather than only the small engine mount.I also needed the shift linkage and rad support. here are a few pics...
As you can see the engine was fun getting out the bolt oxidized to the mount so i had to cut on either side with a Reciprocating saw.
After several of hours i finally got her out!
Along with these! Now next weekend i can start welding these in the engine bay, and finish up filling in holes.
 

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you'll save yourself a lot of unnecessary work by just welding the motor mount back on the pre existing framerail.

If by your logic (not being critical - just thinking out load) re-attaching the motor mount will not be strong enough - what will make re-attaching an entire frame rail "stronger" than the pre existing framerail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was afraid of it not being strong enough and aligning it on the frame rail properly, but i looked in my bently under the body alignment section and it gives you the measurements for installing them so i guess ill go that route now, it will also save me hours of cutting, welding and grinding.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This weekend i didnt really get much done. First i helped out ( 1 of250 1989 helios GLI ) by cutting out the rear quarter panel of my donor car.
Then i started shaving my bumper supports by getting rid of the seams, but i kept burning throught the metal:banghead:. So i switched to a thiner wire, .023 but it kept getting tangled up because i was using a .030 feed roller.
I now ordered a new .024 roller but it wont be in for about 4 days:rolleyes: This is all i got done because of the trouble i had with the welder ill have to finish it up once i get the roller in.
I have been told by getting rid of the seams ill loose regidity so i plan on making a core support crossmember like the one that BFI sells.

sorry for the cell pics ill use my T3i for now on!:p
 

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Bummer. yeah I bought a bad spool a few weeks ago. No matter what I did/ how much/ little tension I put on the wire it would birds nest. I went with a quality supplier, and it stopped. Good luck - it gets old real quick.
 

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I have been told by getting rid of the seams ill loose regidity so i plan on making a core support crossmember like the one that BFI sells.
who has told you this?

spot welding panels together is faster and more cost effective than seam welding them. doesn't necessarily mean that they are stronger as a result. if you properly weld the seam together there should be no issues with it and you won't lose any rigidity either.



keep plugging away with your build, looking forward to seeing it at the H20 build off :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I got alot done this weekend between pulling the car apart and cleaning out the barn. I got the rear quarter windows out with some guidence and a bunch of wooden wedges.
Then i realized i've got some more work ahead of me:banghead:
I then soaked the hatch bolts with this, id have to say this out performs pb blaster by a mile but i guess you get what you pay for!
Here it is once i got it apart.
I got a dent puller from harbor freight for areas like this that need some atention:cool:


What do you guys think about using whitecote (por15) for my floors and inner fender wells is it worth the money does anyone have experience with it?
I hope to get that roller in the mail this week so that i can finish up the engine bay and notch the frame, and then move onto the body.:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Quick way to remove rear side windows: lie on your back inside the car and carefully push them out using your feet. Have a helper waiting so it doesnt fall to the ground. Drink a beer. :)
HA ive seen a video of this being done before. but i wouldnt want to risk it!:p
 
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