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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 GTI vr6 w/ 62k miles
Just put on ATE powerstop slotted front rotors and mintex redbox pads. Flushed out the brake fluid in the system, as it was going on 60k miles. Replaced it with Valvoline Syn Dot3/Dot4 fluid, which claims to satisfy and exceed both requirements.
Anyhow, bled the brakes out like 5 times now at all 4 wheels (only replaced front brakes) and the pedal is still very mushy, and the bleeding doesn't seem to change it at all.
I'll start with the rear driver's wheel and generally will get a bubble or two from it. Rear passenger usually about the same, and the front two will come up with a misty looking bunch of small bubbles, but all 4 wheels will always bleed clear after a cycle or two.
Not leaking fluid anywhere.
I'll go for a test drive, find the pedal going to the floor, start again at the rear wheel and find more bubbles. Bled the system out twice last nite and 3 times today, and I'm at a loss as to what's up.
When I replaced the fluid, I uncorked one of the bleed valves and started pumping the brakes, all the while making sure to keep the reservoir full. Did this for each wheel starting with the front driver's. Didn't figure I'd need to bleed it after that, being as I really didn't introduce any air into the system and if I had it would've just shot right back out with the next pump.
Have tried bleeding the brakes with the car on, and with the car off. Tried criss-crossing wheels, pumping it up 20-30 times before uncorking the bleed valve, called the dealer, who told me I shouldn't have to do any special, and guys, I'm just lost.
The brakes were feeling just fine before I flushed them, the fluid was looking dark and gunky and I had begun to notice the braking wasn't quite as good as it used to be, in keeping with having very old fluid.
I can't lock the ABS any more, and the pedal goes to the floor, but the car does stop. All I can figure is my MC somehow bit it. Also, when I hit the brake pedal I hear a noise sort of like air sucking briefly. And, on top of that, when pumping the pedal with the car on, I was lying under the exhaust bleeding the rear driver's wheel while my friend was pumping and I could hear a very definate shift in engine RPM as she was pumping. Is that normal too?
So, my question to you guys, what is it I'm doing wrong here (apart from lying under the exhaust with the car running ?
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (jackr)

The brakes still need blead. Be sure you are following the correct procedure as with any car and start with wheel furthest from master. If you are doing by yourself, be sure you add hose to bleed nipple and submurge end of hose in brake fluid so air does not get pulled into caliper while you are moving from interior to the wheel to shut bleed valve.
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (NC-GTI)

What he said above is very important. Make sure you pump each side about ten time with the bleeder open. On the last pump hold the pedal to the floor. Then close the valve. Between each caliper pump up the pedal to see if it is getting harder.
Let us know!
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (Blacklightning)

Tried all that ..
Had a friend pump up the pedal 20 times, then I open bleeder valve; two or 3 times a wheel.
Did it for all 4 wheels, one time with car on, one with car off.
No difference at all.
Pedal is still very mushy.
It's driveable, but I can't lock the brakes at all, and it's still swimming. Feels like all I'm getting is rear brakes, almost.
I'm at a loss as to what to do.
Any other suggestions?
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (jackr)

it's gonna take a while. VentoDan helped me with my SS lines and he said it could take a couple days to go back to normal......it took like 5. The system needs to repressurize.
If you know you bled them properly, give it a couple days.
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (ACKTung)

When you were pumping the brakes up did you do short pumping action of long pumping action?
Sometimes short pumps causes air in the system.
Also start with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder which would be the rear passenger side wheel not the drivers side rear wheel.


[Modified by EPilot, 3:27 PM 2-10-2002]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (EPilot)

Slower strokes ..
Originally had tried quicker pumping, but switched to slower strokes the last 2 or 3 times we bled the system.
What's the scoop on the whole let it sit and pressurize thing? This is the first I've ever heard of that sort of a thing ..
Just drove the car around a bunch, and getting a definate smell of brakes when stopping sharply from higher speeds, more so than I ever used to get.
Even if we'd started at the wrong wheel, after bleeding each wheel 5 times, you'd think we would've gotten any bubbles in the system out, right?
When I press the brake pedal, there's a good bit of travel before I start to feel any action, and when sitting still I can hear a sound like air hissing as I'm pressing it down if I hit the pedal somewhat quickly. Can't hear it at speed, mainly because of all the extra noise.


[Modified by jackr, 5:14 PM 2-10-2002]
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (ACKTung)

Suggest you pick up a vacuum bleeder, about $30.
connect vacuum bleeder to bleed screw
open screw
apply vacuum until no more air bubbles
close screw
next
good luck,
fat biker
P.S. All that wait for it to pressurize is baloney.
 

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Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (ACKTung)

I had some fun doing this a while back, it all started when someone (dad) mentioned that he could save me some time by using his grinder to cut apart my exhaust. Well, he kinda let it get away from him and it skipped of the left rear brake line, so I ended up replacing the entire line. You need to start with the right rear, left rear, right front , and last left front. Make sure that whoever is cracking open the bleeder screw and the guy pumping the brake pedal are communicating. First you need to pump the brakes until you get pedal,on the last time leave pressure on the pedal. When your friend opens the bleeder screw,the pedal will go to the floor, hold it there. Tell your friend to close the bleeder screw, then you can release the brake pedal. Keep doing this until their is no more bubbles. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I hope this helps some, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: GTI w/ mushy brake pedal after flush and bleeding; HELP please! (GreenVW1.8T)

Okay, so after having bled each wheel no less than 5 times, I gave.
Sucked it up and took it in, had it vacuum bled at the dealer (again, nothing but great things to say about Dwight Harrison VW).
Took them a few tries, but apparently there was some renegade air somewhere in the system, because now she's feeling much, much better.
Perhaps persistence would've paid off in the end, but I already had hours into it and no progress to show for it; had to get code done for a contract I have to deliver Thursday, and I have to drive out of town on Friday, so had to let it win this time ..
But, on the up side, the car is feeling much better .. The new pads and rotors still need to wear in, but that's to be expected.
Sorry to disappoint, and I'm the first to try and do all the work myself, but this time I just didn't have the time ..
[edit] Oh, and word from the service and tech folks at DH, most times our cars will bleed on the first try, but every once in a while, even their shop takes a half dozen times to get the brakes bled right, so when bleeding brakes, always start at the wheel furthest from the MC, the rear passenger wheel, then do the front driver's wheel, then the rear driver's wheel, then the front passenger wheel. Our cars are on an X circuit, so the front driver and rear passenger wheel are one circuit, the front passenger and rear driver are another. Thus, if one chamber of your reservoir goes, you pop a line or something happens to one wheel, you'll always have the other diagonal to brake with. All they could tell me to do, had I to do it again, was to just keep bleeding it until it bled clear, and that many times, it will literally take forever to do it.
[/edit]
Thanks for all your help!


[Modified by jackr, 9:46 AM 2-12-2002]
 
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