Something I just found in a thread about stalling out in right-hand turns... maybe not signficant to my problem:
"fuel pump pick up inside of the tank has a hole or damaged"
"fuel pump pick up inside of the tank has a hole or damaged"
Help! Fuel Pump Dead ?
To start off, I have done a thorough forum search for fuel pump issues, so hopefully this isn't just another fuel pump post. I also left my bentley in the car, so there's some things I might ask here which it may have info on, if it does please point that out to me.
Recently I have had issues where my car would start real quick and then stall out as well, and sometimes wouldn't even turn. I cannot give it gas unless I floor it and rev it real high and then not let it drop again, eventually the idle will hold, especially after some driving.
Last night my friend wanted to see my car so I took him for a spin (it had the same problem starting up). I pulled a hard left U-turn in a parking lot and then the engine stalled out... not yet to start again. Sometimes I get the engine to start up for a second but pressing the accelarator won't do anything, most of the time it doesn't even turn 1 cycle though.
So...does it sound like a fuel pump to you? I would guess that the relay wouldn't cause such problems, if it might then I should try jumping it (does the bentley have the instructions on where the jumper goes for it? And the process of doing it?)
Also while reading fuel pump posts I found:
"Here is something that will sound interesting. I had an 83 Jetta which would run like crap after it had rained or especially in snowed. Well, after a year of thinking about what could be the problem (yea, I'm slow), I noticed that when I fill the gas tank to the top, at the end gas will drop on the ground. Guess, what? There was a huge hole in the filler neck and every time the roads were wet, water would go into the gas tank. Eventually it killed the pump. After replacing the third pump I found out what the problem was and fixed it up. Oh, btw, the tank could hold less and less fuel. When I started to clean it up, a third of it was just sand. Interestingly enough the car managed to run somehow. I really doubt that this is the problem with your car, but I thought it is an interesting story. Sorry for waisting everyone's time."
I also found leaking gas under my tank after filling it up last time, it looks like it's coming from the top of the tank, maybe not the filler neck but that would cause the same problem wouldn't it? Last time I filled it up I put Chevron Techron (fuel sys. cleaner) into it. I hope the bentley has instructions for checking the filler neck.
So... advice on what I should do to maybe get my car the 4-5 miles home, so I can avoid towing it.
Recently I have had issues where my car would start real quick and then stall out as well, and sometimes wouldn't even turn. I cannot give it gas unless I floor it and rev it real high and then not let it drop again, eventually the idle will hold, especially after some driving.
Last night my friend wanted to see my car so I took him for a spin (it had the same problem starting up). I pulled a hard left U-turn in a parking lot and then the engine stalled out... not yet to start again. Sometimes I get the engine to start up for a second but pressing the accelarator won't do anything, most of the time it doesn't even turn 1 cycle though.
So...does it sound like a fuel pump to you? I would guess that the relay wouldn't cause such problems, if it might then I should try jumping it (does the bentley have the instructions on where the jumper goes for it? And the process of doing it?)
Also while reading fuel pump posts I found:
"Here is something that will sound interesting. I had an 83 Jetta which would run like crap after it had rained or especially in snowed. Well, after a year of thinking about what could be the problem (yea, I'm slow), I noticed that when I fill the gas tank to the top, at the end gas will drop on the ground. Guess, what? There was a huge hole in the filler neck and every time the roads were wet, water would go into the gas tank. Eventually it killed the pump. After replacing the third pump I found out what the problem was and fixed it up. Oh, btw, the tank could hold less and less fuel. When I started to clean it up, a third of it was just sand. Interestingly enough the car managed to run somehow. I really doubt that this is the problem with your car, but I thought it is an interesting story. Sorry for waisting everyone's time."
I also found leaking gas under my tank after filling it up last time, it looks like it's coming from the top of the tank, maybe not the filler neck but that would cause the same problem wouldn't it? Last time I filled it up I put Chevron Techron (fuel sys. cleaner) into it. I hope the bentley has instructions for checking the filler neck.
So... advice on what I should do to maybe get my car the 4-5 miles home, so I can avoid towing it.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Re: (OrangeDoor)
It dosen't sound like a fuel pump problem to me. Check the Bentley and go through the F.I. section completely. Start by making sure that the throttle-stop screw is correctly adjusted (this is not the idle screw!) Pull off the air boot and make sure that the plate is free and set properly. A fuel pressure test might also help determine the cause of the problem(s). Also check the ign. timing.
Since you have to floor it to start the car it sounds like something (or thing s ), is just way out of adjustment, bent, or broken. HTH -PB
It dosen't sound like a fuel pump problem to me. Check the Bentley and go through the F.I. section completely. Start by making sure that the throttle-stop screw is correctly adjusted (this is not the idle screw!) Pull off the air boot and make sure that the plate is free and set properly. A fuel pressure test might also help determine the cause of the problem(s). Also check the ign. timing.
Since you have to floor it to start the car it sounds like something (or thing s ), is just way out of adjustment, bent, or broken. HTH -PB
Re: (BreenMachine)
Well right now I can't even start it. I try flooring it while starting but it's not doing anything. It's not cranking very much either, maybe a couple seconds between cranks?
Well right now I can't even start it. I try flooring it while starting but it's not doing anything. It's not cranking very much either, maybe a couple seconds between cranks?
Re: (OrangeDoor)
Sounds like a battery problem too, or timing way off. If it starts OK with a jump then proceed with the F.I./ign. tuning. If not... there are bigger problems.
Sounds like a battery problem too, or timing way off. If it starts OK with a jump then proceed with the F.I./ign. tuning. If not... there are bigger problems.
Re: (OrangeDoor)
Check if the 7mm idle screw is still in the throttle body. I had one come out during an autocross once and the engine would not start. Fortunately I walked the course and found the idle screw.
Since then I have always put a large rubber vacuum cap over the idle screw housing on the back of the throttle body. This prevents any air leaks and contains the idle screw if it does come out.
A cold start problem can be caused by a bad Control Pressure Regulator (aka warmup reg), causing the Control Pressure to be incorrect. On a cold start, the Control Pressure is lower to aid with the starting and an initial faster idle speed.
If the idle screw is not the problem, then you need to check the CIS system pressure and control pressure with a CIS pressure tester gauge. Otherwise you really don't know what is going on. Good luck, WWR.
Check if the 7mm idle screw is still in the throttle body. I had one come out during an autocross once and the engine would not start. Fortunately I walked the course and found the idle screw.
Since then I have always put a large rubber vacuum cap over the idle screw housing on the back of the throttle body. This prevents any air leaks and contains the idle screw if it does come out.
A cold start problem can be caused by a bad Control Pressure Regulator (aka warmup reg), causing the Control Pressure to be incorrect. On a cold start, the Control Pressure is lower to aid with the starting and an initial faster idle speed.
If the idle screw is not the problem, then you need to check the CIS system pressure and control pressure with a CIS pressure tester gauge. Otherwise you really don't know what is going on. Good luck, WWR.
Re: (BreenMachine)
It's not the idle screw. It's not the battery I don't think cause the start clicks eh? I guess I can try giving it a jump. Something to note is that for a while on occassion it would idle really low causing my volt meter to go nuts (i hope it's no the other way around). That made me think it was a vacuume leak. I'm gonna see if i can look at a couple things, and if not have it towed to brian's garage when i get a chance. This is such a sad day, everyone bugging me to sell my car.
It's not the idle screw. It's not the battery I don't think cause the start clicks eh? I guess I can try giving it a jump. Something to note is that for a while on occassion it would idle really low causing my volt meter to go nuts (i hope it's no the other way around). That made me think it was a vacuume leak. I'm gonna see if i can look at a couple things, and if not have it towed to brian's garage when i get a chance. This is such a sad day, everyone bugging me to sell my car.
Re: (OrangeDoor)
I checked out the car today. The battery was pretty juiced, so I tried jumping it. All the jumping did was make it crank faster, but still no rpms. I didn't have a jumper wire with me so I couldn't test the pump relay (is it alrigh to use a wire without an inline fuse?)
I checked out the car today. The battery was pretty juiced, so I tried jumping it. All the jumping did was make it crank faster, but still no rpms. I didn't have a jumper wire with me so I couldn't test the pump relay (is it alrigh to use a wire without an inline fuse?)
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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