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Discussion Starter #1
I have an R36 Block that i got from Germany.... with that being said they are almost impossible to find. Well during shipping the block dropped and the corner By the cam gear broke. Fortunately none of the internals were connected to the block..... I took the block to my engine guy who also specializes in welding. So today i went to see how he's doing because he called me to come and take a look at it. He explained to me that Everytime he welds one side the opposite cracks and its an endless cycle of cracking. I know very little about welding, but he tells me that there is pressure inside of the weld that makes it crack. Now i guess what im asking is there anything i can use or a teqnique i can use to prevent this cracking. My other question is what causes the pressure or cracking.... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because i invested a lot into this engine and i cant just flush it down the drain because of a delema like this. THANKS IN ADVANCE
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: (Mortal_Wombat)

Thanks alot for the advice but i think we pre heated the section where it was to be welded, do you think pre-heating the WHOLE block would make a differance.... Thanks alot, thought any more suggestions.
 

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Re: (Dafljigga)

Welding cast is a temp fix at best. If you look at the moleculer(sp?) structure of cast, it just doesn't lend it's self to welding.
With that being said, the best way to weld that cast block is, by pre heating, the whole thing, and using a high nickel filler, Nickel has alot of give in it and as such resists the cracking you are having problem's with. Then post heat the block and let it cool slowly.
Now this isn't a guarnteed fix, as NOTHING is with cast, but it is your best bet.
The Nickel filler should either be in Stick or Tig. Mig is just wasting your time here.
 

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Re: (dvst8rcbr)

Quote, originally posted by dvst8rcbr »
Welding cast is a temp fix at best. If you look at the moleculer(sp?) structure of cast, it just doesn't lend it's self to welding.
With that being said, the best way to weld that cast block is, by pre heating, the whole thing, and using a high nickel filler, Nickel has alot of give in it and as such resists the cracking you are having problem's with. Then post heat the block and let it cool slowly.
Now this isn't a guarnteed fix, as NOTHING is with cast, but it is your best bet.

what he said...i would post heat also. using a torch for both pre and post. High nickel rod is hard to find usually they want you to buy alot as this rod is expensive........if you cant find high nickel tig rod.....see if you can find some high nickel stick welding rod and using a hammer break off all the flux on the outer and clean with sand paper and use this for TIG welding........ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The Nickel filler should either be in Stick or Tig. Mig is just wasting your time here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: (purple-pill)

Can someone tell me where i can find a high nickel filler ?? Someplace i can order it online ???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: (slappynuts)

is it a structural part that is broken ???? I mean i think the whole thing is structural, dont you agree ?? Because the cast is the structure. I Mean its the front cornerabout 3 inches deep and up to where the oil pain mounts.
 

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Re: (Dafljigga)

Any welding shop will carry high nickel rod. Air liquide, BOC, Praxair, ect... Tell them what you are doing and that you are looking for high nickel rod and they will point you to it.
 

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Why not take it to a real welding shop and get it done right? As stated before, welding on cast is asking for trouble... there is no way to match the crystal structure of the cast metal (each casting has a unique structure, no two are the same, making welding of any kind hard to do).
You may want to see if you could heli arc it. Welds made on cast iron with a medical grade helium shield usually turn out being fairly strong. My one concern is the depth of material... you should post a picture
 

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Re: (Audi_S3_ARD:CD)

drill a hole at start and stop of crack-this way the crack will not spread during welding. preheat to 350f and use high nickel ( inconel 82 for example) TIG is the only way to go for this. i have done it quite a few times w/ terrific results http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (hkk735)

More good info, didn't think to mention, you should also grove the crack for more weld area and for better penatration.
I'm going to have to dissagree with TIG only, as I have repaired litterally thousands of cast piece's, with high nickel Stick. Mostly big CAT equipment.
 

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Re: (dvst8rcbr)

When welding cast Iron manifolds, I have, in the past, used 99% nickel arc rod. I hit it with a hammer to get the flux off, cleaned it with denatured alch. and scotchbrite and then used it as tig rod. The welds have turned out great.
 

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Sometimes I weld up turbo turbine housings for a local shop, and I have welded up plenty of cast vw block ears an stuff. I preheat the whole thing to about 350-400degrees, get out your heat crayon to make sure you arent getting it too hot or too cold. Than I weld up the area and than bury the piece is sand so that it takes a log long time to cool. Havent had anything fail on me yet. Oh yeah I use iconel rod as well, I'll try to find out what type.
 

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Re: (dvst8rcbr)

Quote, originally posted by dvst8rcbr »
Welding cast is a temp fix at best. If you look at the moleculer(sp?) structure of cast, it just doesn't lend it's self to welding.
With that being said, the best way to weld that cast block is, by pre heating, the whole thing, and using a high nickel filler, Nickel has alot of give in it and as such resists the cracking you are having problem's with. Then post heat the block and let it cool slowly.
Now this isn't a guarnteed fix, as NOTHING is with cast, but it is your best bet.
The Nickel filler should either be in Stick or Tig. Mig is just wasting your time here.

Are you talking from experiance here or you just heard it somewhere?
Sure cast block can be welded, and will hold as good as new.
If you don't know and asking what kind of filler to use, just pay professional to do the job.
Here is a picture of a $150 well spent!!!!

 

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Re: (RedDevil)

Every time you re-attempt the weld, you are making the problem worse. Preheating just one part of the cast structure will make it want to break at other spots too!
Cast iron CAN be welded successfully, but it is touchy, and has to be done just right.
I would take it to someone who specializes in cast iron welding, and make sure they really are, and are not just saying "yeah yeah, no problem". You can damage the block beyond repair if you weld it wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: (sloppychicken)

Yea i did, but ummm its still not getting me another r36 block... to coment on the other guys comment. The guy who i took it to told me he was a professional welder and he welded my Steel and aluminum manifolds so i figured he was good. He made very good clean welds on the manifolds... with that being said he welded the block already but since it began to crack he was talking about taking the piece off the block and trying again. So i was just trying to get as many ideas as to what to do as possible so that i can fix it properly. BTW im in New Jersey and if anyone knows of a place reletively around here that welds stainless steel and is reputable let me know so i can take it to them and get it poppin.
 

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Re: (Dafljigga)

Not to beat this insurance thing to death, but isn't the point of insurance to cover the value of the piece being shipped against damage by the shipper or if it's lost in transit? If they dropped it and cracked it, they should refund you the value of the block. With that money, you could get another one. Just a thought.
 
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