I guess the bigger question is who cares considering you can get a full rebuilt longblock for $1500 or so, much less if you do the rebuild yourself. I'd worry far more about the condition of the body and if it will hold up than the strength of the engine.
quote:[HR][/HR]totally disagree. i think most people buy cars to drive them, not to bring them home and have the motor poop out on them so they have an instant project.[HR][/HR]
Thats what i am talking about...i dont want to get home and then realize that i still have to put anouther 1000 or so into it to get a new engine put in.
Speedemon: i live in Surrey also...worst case senario and i need to get a new engine, do you recommend anywhere or anyone that can do a good job. I dont want to hear Momemtum either as an answer or something like those places.
Sorry, I think I was being grumpy when I wrote that post. You're right, you don't want an expensive job facing you right after you buy a car. Thing is, at the mileage it's at, it's really really hard to tell how your durability is going to go unless the owner has pristine maintenance records. If they do, sit down and plot them out, because you'll want to know how often oil has been changed, any tranny work done (should have had the oil changed at least once there), any tune up work.
The biggest problem with the Westmorelands isn't really the engine. That thing will run forever not getting tired. It's all the other stuff that will nickle and dime you to death. The biggest "normal" engine problem I've seen is main bearings wearing out, causing play in the crankshaft, which wears out rear main seals which gets oil on the clutch and burns it out. Hard to see it happening until your clutch starts failing. Other than that, the only other problem is seals that harden up and start leaking oil. Not bad to replace, just another nickle here.
The reason I mentioned rust is that it's the biggest, most expensive problem you're gonna get on a Westmoreland. The cancer can cause control arms to release from the sub frame and floors falling out giving you the fred flinstone effect.
Waterpumps, CV Joints, brakes, AC compressors, noisy lifters, tie rod ends, worn out suspension, alternators, starters, annoying tough to find electrical failures, these are the things that will cause you to bleed slowly. Nice thing is, none of 'em are all that expensive or hard to do yourself, well maybe the AC, but they're gonna just be slow drains on your wallet.
UNLESS, you've gotten lucky enough to get the car of somebody who actually loved the thing and has done a lot of work themselves already. With this age of car, you're looking at one of three kinds of sellers. 1. The proverbial grandma or just stodgy old guy for whom this car has been "just fine" and has driven it easily, maybe taking care of it, maybe not. 2. A broke ass person who drives this because they haven't been able to afford better, and are getting rid of a problem that's bleeding them dry. 3. Somebody who really likes driving this little rabbit and has had no problem taking care of it.
2 is the one you want to avoid. 1 is a 50/50 proposition because most times they don't do jack to the car, and just got word that the clutch is going and so they've decide to sell rather than put $500 into the car.
Even though you're looking at a car costing less than $1000, you've got to inspect it far more thoroughly than a car that's 5 years old. There you just look for body damage and make sure the scheduled maintenence has been performed.
OK, so, is that better??
Thanks for the info. The car has 300,000Kms on it and is owned by a Mechanic right now....i will be taking it to a mechanic to get looked at..compression tested all that stuff...the car is in great condition though.
quote:[HR][/HR]I am looking at a car that has 300,000kms on a 83 . Its the stock 1.7L engine and tranny. How long can these last for?[HR][/HR]
I personally wouldn't buy it unless you're planning an engine swap or you're looking for a project. That's a lot of kms if you're looking for a reliable daily driver. It's not just the engine & tranny i'd worry about. You're also looking at 300,000kms on wheel bearings, struts/shox, bushings, brakes, etc... You get the idea.
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