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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what should i do to build my 8v to the best it can do on pump gas i want to kill Honda's at stop lights and to be fun on the free way not the Eng to be turning 5000 at 65mph i am thinking of gasing it so how can i make it nos frendly and what is the max i can bore it out the car is a 87 golf and it is all ready lighten
keeb
 

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you can put a 10:1 compression bottom end in it, port and polish the head, 3 angle valve job, cam, dual outlet exhaust manifold and downpipe, 2.25 exhaust. you want a close ratio tranny, i wouldnt put a higher 5th gear in it though, alot of people think it gives you higher top end, it doesnt, the motor wont have enough torque to push a tall 5th gear to redline, and even if it did the cars aerodynamics would work against you.
 

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Re: (VwEEP)

Quote, originally posted by VwEEP »
10:1 that is too high for NOS


Since when? Do some research. At this point, your way over your head. You need to learn about what it is your trying to do first. Then go about obtaining it. Otherwise your gonna have a big box of broken parts and scratching your head.
Also, thow in a period every now and then. Makes it easier to understand what it is you want to know.
Check my web site, (Specifically my 84 Scirocco page.) there is alot of helpful mods that might be what your looking to do.


Modified by Monster8V at 6:26 PM 12-11-2003
 

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Re: (VwEEP)

I would be shooting for more like 11:1 compression if you are looking to make some power.
Two words, Knock Sensor. If the car's a GTI it will have it all already, not sure about base models. Otherwise the advice above is good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
i plan on keeping the trans that is in it it works well
That could be a big limiting factor, not sure what you have now.
what is a good cam to run
How you build the rest of the motor will determine that. To early to be picking cams yet.
 

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Re: (a2-8v-pgh)

Quote, originally posted by a2-8v-pgh »
dual outlet manifold is for the ladies, get some tri-y headers!! or race headers.

Hey now for us with light wallets a ported dual outlet manifold works great!
 

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Re: (Slow1.8)

Knock sensors are not needed for high compression, what they are needed for is to correct an ignition curve that doesnt match the motor your using.. ie what fuel, cam, static and dynamic compression ratios.
My 1.8L 8V is only bored out from 81 to 81.5mm and is in the 160-170crank hp range <will be backing it up with dyno figures as soon as i possibly can>.
I'm running 12:1 compression on pump gas with a big cam, I have no knock sensor. and no knock.
 

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Re: (Monster8V)

Shawn,
I checked out your web page. I saw that you've installed a 16V block while keeping the 8V head. which car was the PL block sourced from? I'm asking because I have a complete 2.0L 16V block (10.8:1CR) from a Passat. I was wondering if it was possible to match this with my JH 8V head. I've been told that I should be using the 3A bubble block Audi 2.0L. What are your thoughts? I'm guessing that if this block works, the pistons would have to be changed to 8V type.
 

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Re: (CdnDub)

Quote, originally posted by CdnDub »
Knock sensors are not needed for high compression, what they are needed for is to correct an ignition curve that doesnt match the motor your using.. ie what fuel, cam, static and dynamic compression ratios.
My 1.8L 8V is only bored out from 81 to 81.5mm and is in the 160-170crank hp range <will be backing it up with dyno figures as soon as i possibly can>.
I'm running 12:1 compression on pump gas with a big cam, I have no knock sensor. and no knock.

Im guessing this isn't your daily driver. How big a cam are you running and what octane fuel? How is city driving with that compression ratio? Sounds like a nice setup. are you running Digi, cis or something else?
 

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Re: (sloppychicken)

This will be my daily driver in a few more weeks.
The trick i'm currently facing is getting a highly cammed motor through local emissions testing
i use 94 ocatane pump gas <i'm Canadian its easily available>, but with no signs of knock so far i could probably even get by on 92 octane, the trick with lots of compression is a big cam. I'm currently using a TT 288deg and would probably not want to go much larger for a street driven car.
fuel and ignition is handled by a Megasquirt DIY EFI controller.
 

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Re: (CdnDub)

I want to run a similiar setup with an ABA block and 1.8L head using Digi one. I was thinking more along the lines of 11.5:1 as the highest gas i have is 91 or 92 if im lucky. I wanted to go with the TT 276 cam, but the 288 sounds better. What does the Megasquirt run $$ wise and does it control ignition?
 

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Re: (CdnDub)

Your right, a knock sensor ignition isn't a majic way to make power. The reason i recomend it is for a safety margian so that you can drive the car safely on a regular basis where you can't be guarenteed that you will find primo fuel all the time.
What kind of total ignition advance are you running ?


Modified by YetiMan at 1:15 PM 12-12-2003
 

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Re: (YetiMan)

the 288 is a bit big for the street, you will use more gas if gas mileage is a concern since some of it is being dumped right into the exhaust =P <overlap> I'm certainly not going to complain about the mental power it makes up to 8000rpm tho.
I'm currently running 32deg's total advance and had up to 34deg's advance in 30C weather over the summer with no signs of knock <30C = 90F or so>, I'm still working out a few details like heatsoak and the intake air temp sensor, Ideally i'd like to run 34-36deg's total advance at WOT
advance at cruise is up in the mid 40's but i'm still working on my ignition maps.
Megasquirt for the ECU, wiring, related relays and sensors etc etc without things like fuel rail and injectors will likely run you around $200 USD It can do ignition if you are willing to be on the bleeding edge, like me =P.. and run a varient of the ECU software called MegaSquirtNSpark or MegaSquirtNEDIS to get ignition/spark control..
You do have to be confident in your ability to solder and troubleshoot tho since its very much a DIY system
 

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Re: (CdnDub)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I was wondering because i get 92-93 octane locally of varying quality and am using 34 degrees at 4ooo rpm (in the cold weather, 30-32 degrees in summer).
I still have slight knock from time to time, but not normally.
(ABA/JH on CIS, TT 280 cam, 11:1 comp)
 

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Re: (sloppychicken)

as a side note for some who dont know i'm also running individual throttle bodies on my 1.8L
i would never expect to have the same power or throttle response with a stock or ported manifold and mk2 or audi TB..
My 1.8L NA will however hang with a mk2 VR6, and leave 1.8T mk4's in the dust.
Already made a few TypeR owners scratch their heads <or give the finger>, and had an old Chevy Nova, <with a 305 in it> owner give me a big thumbs up after i took him off the line and into 3rd gear.
I built it just to prove that you dont need boost, or nitrous or a 2L bottom end to go fast. But it did cost me a fair bit to build as a reliable engine and that has still to be proven as a daily driver. I also wanted to prove to a few people that 12:1 CR was totally possible with a VW engine on pump gas and shocking even without a knock sensor.
 
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