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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
this is the best way to provide proper vacuum at idle and WOT. some may say "I just run strait off TIP vacuum" but that will only cause lack of vacuum at idle and has in some 1.8t's lead to smoking at idle. and will cause acid to build up in your oil and damage your engine.

this is the best way to install a Catch-Can SYS on your 1.8t. (revised)



the vacuum pump you need: I would recomend a new one there are soft rubber check valves and small holes that can be clogged in old ones.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES1884320/ES1884320/

this is the check valve i used: (you could use a second PCV valve in this location for more reliability.)

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/0004313507/ES2597284/

and this is the PCV valve I used:

the puck: IMO a PCV valve works better. But if you want OEM crank case vacuum just leave the puck in the original position. It will still be better then current catch can setups.

the PCV valve: "its not a perfect fit, it has to be installed with the fat end in the hose and the skinny part into the TIP. Its working well for me, but i would like to find a larger one.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/035103245G/ES7771/

THE PUMP



I have made a NEW diagram to end all questions :banghead:

Here is a 1.8T Vacuum diagram :sly:



here is that same system only showing the just the PCV and color matched to my diagram on how to properly install a CC system on a 1.8t. :eek:



here is the same diagram modified to my system as you can see it does not affect function but allows you to run a CC and have a factory PCV system.:cool:



if you want more vacuum in your PCV system, give the PCV Valve/Check Valve a try in place of the Puck. its up to you. :thumbup:


If you want to argue this go talk to AUG. :laugh: I'm just sharing what figured out. it was not that hard to do :rolleyes: and I'm not looking for any compensation/credit just sharing information. :peace:
Seeing is believing...

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
whats wrong with venting to air w/ filter on the can?
low to no vacuum at idle. = higher crank case pressure + excessive vapor in crankcase + rapid acid buildup in oil + more sludge build up + increased oil leaks + smoking + less low end power + in some cases oil foam build up in Engine & Catchcan + acid in oil will eat bearings in engine and turbo.

that should be plenty of reasons to do it rite I hope.
 

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low to no vacuum at idle. = higher crank case pressure + excessive vapor in crankcase + rapid acid buildup in oil + more sludge build up + increased oil leaks + smoking + less low end power + in some cases oil foam build up in Engine & Catchcan + acid in oil will eat bearings in engine and turbo.

that should be plenty of reasons to do it rite I hope.
Do you have anything to back up these bold statements?
 

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I've been running filter off vc and hose to ground off crank and straight hose from im to brake booster for at least a year (10k) with no problems

Sent from my SPH-D710VMUB using Tapatalk 2
 

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I disagree. I run lower/upper breather in a T then to CC. Vacuum via hockey puck to TIP only and in fact, this is better when you race your car as the vacuum from IM will suck up amounts of oil from lower breather during heavy braking.

Even at idle this setup provides enough vacuum at idle to evacuate gasses.

:beer:
 

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I still get smoking at idle with tip only for vacuum source. It only happens after I change oil though for some odd reason? Never really ever happens accept then unless the car has sat for a long period of time say 3+days
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you have anything to back up these bold statements?
there is nothing bold about that statement, its fact. look it up. why else do you thing they put the vacuum pump in the SYS... its not for looks.


ACID NEUTRALIZERS
As the engine operates, combustion gasses acidic by-products from the sulfur in the fuel. The acids combine with moisture (every gallon of gasoline burnt produces ½ gallon of moisture) which dissolve bearing surfaces.

All modern motor oils contain sodium hydroxides (NaOH) to combat the acid build up in the oil. As the oil becomes contaminated and turns acid, the NaOH gets used up. Preventing acid buildup is a very big reason for changing motor oil regularily. Short trip driving is the worst kind of driving for this problem as moisture is not boiled off during driving cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I disagree. I run lower/upper breather in a T then to CC. Vacuum via hockey puck to TIP only and in fact, this is better when you race your car as the vacuum from IM will suck up amounts of oil from lower breather during heavy braking.

Even at idle this setup provides enough vacuum at idle to evacuate gasses.

:beer:
I would like to see your prof that no vacuum is as good as with vacuum. i have VW&Audi&BMW ON MY SIDE
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What direction of flow do the check valves go in? you should put that on your drawing.

Also, since I have nowhere to mount a puck (Mafless BT) I assume I need a check valve in this location. which way is flow for that as well?
very good point i will thanks. and as for no MAf there should be some way of tapping into the TIP. just needs to be between filter and turbo. I found a PCV check valve works well "and cheep" in replace of the puck just make sure it seals fully for best results.
 

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I remember reading some posts about this in the TT forum & have been meaning to try it but forgot about it... until I saw this - nice job on the illustration :beer:

Just plumbed in the OEM vac pump & went for a drive around the block… hit the brakes and it felt like someone had lodged a brick under it - surprise! Rotated the check-valve between the main & pump - much better :p

Unfortunately I didn't see any more vacuum at idle… same old 16-17 fluctuation. I'll go for a better drive tomorrow and see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I remember reading some posts about this in the TT forum & have been meaning to try it but forgot about it... until I saw this - nice job on the illustration :beer:

Just plumbed in the OEM vac pump & went for a drive around the block… hit the brakes and it felt like someone had lodged a brick under it - surprise! Rotated the check-valve between the main & pump - much better :p

Unfortunately I didn't see any more vacuum at idle… same old 16-17 fluctuation. I'll go for a better drive tomorrow and see how it goes.
its good that your not seeing more or less vacuum in the boost gauge "I'm assuming that where your checking your vacuum".

This setup increases vacuum in the ENGINE BLOCK so to see the benefits of this, you have to remove your oil cap at idle and see/hear the difference. let us know :thumbup:
 

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Check valves are just valves which lets air flow only one direction?

In original AUQ-system theres a valve which goes to middle at the vacuum pump but flow is marked to the vacuum pump, not like in the pic from the vacuum.

In this catch tank system it has to be just reversed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Check valves are just valves which lets air flow only one direction?

In original AUQ-system theres a valve which goes to middle at the vacuum pump but flow is marked to the vacuum pump, not like in the pic from the vacuum.

In this catch tank system it has to be just reversed?
yes check valves only lets flow in the direction indicated. just like the puck / PCV valve.

The diagram is drawn correctly the fat end attaches to the brake booster and the skinny end to the vacuum source. the T is the vacuum for the PCV. its designed to allow proper braking force even at idle with the oil cap off. :thumbup: good question though i had to re-check lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I still get smoking at idle with tip only for vacuum source. It only happens after I change oil though for some odd reason? Never really ever happens accept then unless the car has sat for a long period of time say 3+days
this setup is recomended over VTA or TIP-Vac regardless of issue. give it a try might just be your issue.
 

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yes check valves only lets flow in the direction indicated. just like the puck / PCV valve.

The diagram is drawn correctly the fat end attaches to the brake booster and the skinny end to the vacuum source. the T is the vacuum for the PCV. its designed to allow proper braking force even at idle with the oil cap off. :thumbup: good question though i had to re-check lol
Yes but do I need to remove white valve which is originally there? As you can see arrow points to the vacuum pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Yes but do I need to remove white valve which is originally there? As you can see arrow points to the vacuum pump.
Yes remove the white valve, and set it up like the diagram. I would recommend new parts in the future also.

However if you want to subject the vacuum pump to boost pressures you can actually leave the white valve there and ignore the orange check valves all together. So you would only have the check valve off the pump T and the PCV / Puck
 
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