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Thanks for the post and the info.
I'm in a situation where I need something quick and dirty. I'm prepping an 86 GLi for the $2008 Grassroots Motorsports Challenge. I've run out of time for the turbo install and now am scrambling to improve the power of the stock motor in a hurry. My only mods to the motor will be 35hp shot of NOS and AC/PS removed.
Will the basic circuit that The_GTi_Art or sciroccoboy16v posted work well enough in a pinch? I will likely use the POT for adjustability.
Thanks in advance...
 

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Re: (VWguyBruce)

Quote, originally posted by VWguyBruce »
Thanks for the post and the info.
I'm in a situation where I need something quick and dirty. I'm prepping an 86 GLi for the $2008 Grassroots Motorsports Challenge. I've run out of time for the turbo install and now am scrambling to improve the power of the stock motor in a hurry. My only mods to the motor will be 35hp shot of NOS and AC/PS removed.
Will the basic circuit that The_GTi_Art or sciroccoboy16v posted work well enough in a pinch? I will likely use the POT for adjustability.
Thanks in advance...

Yes. Of course you will want the pot to be switched in when the NO comes on and the pot set based on your monitoring and setting of AFR with a wideband and/or EGT under actual load. As the correct enrichment will vary with air temperature, humidity,air pressure, load and RPM (less so with a stock engine and Oxy CU), you should plan a way to set this as close to the actual running (the drag race portion) as possible. I assume tuning costs (buying and using wideband monitors, EGT sensors, dyno time) are not counted in the $2008 (unless permanently tied into the car) so stand alone stuff like the Innovate LM-1 - using welded in bungs to the exhaust manifold and downpipe - would be appropriate.
 

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I've got a JAW kit to assemble but may not have the time. Had a minor incident with the car falling off the jackstands on Sunday and poking a hole in the fuel pump housing. Strangely the junkyard had one. This put us a little behind schedule. 8 Days to go.
Got all the stuff for my circuit at the junkyard, maybe I should take the time to get my JAW together...
The NOS system has a WOT switch, I wonder if I could just use the factory part to trigger the solenoids, hmmm. We're going to install the NOS tomorrow night.
Anything that is attached to the car when it runs down the track/autox counts toward your budget. I'm way under budget this year so I've got some wiggle room.

Modified by VWguyBruce at 1:54 PM 9-23-2008


Modified by VWguyBruce at 2:05 PM 9-23-2008
 

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Re: (VWguyBruce)

I am not too familiar JAW kit but assuming it is not controlling anything, you shouldnt need it in the car for competitive runs unless it actively manages something, just for test runs to get the AFR set.
The WOT switch on the throttle body supplies +12V when active. It easily drives typical Bosch relay coils so could work for you. If your NOS uses a low impedance solenoid you may want to put a Bosch relay between the WOT switch and that solenoid or the current draw from the solenoid could toast the switch. I wouldnt go over 1A drain on that switch.


Modified by wclark at 11:23 AM 9-24-2008
 

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Re: (VWguyBruce)

Quote, originally posted by VWguyBruce »
There is a relay in the kit. I hope to tackle all this tonight. I fought an axle for 5 hours last night, stupid 30 minute jobs...

I hear that. Since my GTI has been a race/garage queen since I tore it completely down and built it back up a few years ago so it comes apart and goes together like a new car. About once a year I seem to inherit a parts car (so far 3 A2 and a B3) and am re-introduced to the joys of working on a 20 year old former daily driver.
 

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Re: How to make a fuel enrichment module for CIS-E (sciroccoboy16v)

Quote, originally posted by The_GTi_Art »

Quote, originally posted by sciroccoboy16v »
your first diagram is incorrect
it will make more power but the vehicle will always think that it is running colder than it is
when you go wot with that diagram you open the circuit and the ecu thinks the coolant temp is at minimal value and makes it go way rich
it may make more power but it is not djustable at all
you can replace the resistor with a rheostat and have n adjustable unit
the last one I made with parts from radio shack and pick a part
total cost $5
worked great
before it would get sluggish around 5800rpm
afterwards would run until 6300rpm

with the diagram shown here the ecu sees normal ect value at all times except wide open throttle
when the wot switch is activated the relay activates breaking the circuit
the signal then has to run through the resistor making the resistance higher
indicating cooler temps which means the engine gets more fuel

The 1st diagragm IS correct!! You have not changed anything by relocating that resistor, they are still connected to the exact same pins.
I think the picture may look misleading because of where the resistor is drawn making it appear as if the resistor will move to pin 87 when powered up.
Also, you changed pin 85 to ground, but notice 86 is also going to ground. That relay isnt ever going to do anything



Modified by AceOvSpadez at 12:15 PM 3-9-2009
 

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the one made at the top with the relay will it work for the
cars that have cis-e with out the wot switch?
i swaped my throttle to one with the switch.
 

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Re: (rorin8v)

Quote, originally posted by rorin8v »
the one made at the top with the relay will it work for the
cars that have cis-e with out the wot switch?
i swaped my throttle to one with the switch.

I was not aware that a CIS-E existed without a WOT switch. But either way, yes, for a system like the relay designs above to work, something akin to a WOT switch is required.
 

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I ended up simplifying the one I use on my IT car. I eliminated the coolant temperature sensor completely, as I am only concerned with how it runs when properly warmed up, and this removed potentail failure points in extra wiring and sensors. I just drop the signal through a potentiometer to ground and set the resistance on the dyno for best results. I then put a mechanical limit switch on the pedal box that is normally closed, and opens at about 60% throttle. No WOTS, no relays, no connections in the engine bay.
Simpler is better.
I also wired in a momentary push button to activate the cold start injector to get it going for cold early morning track sessions.
I got all I think I can out of the system at this point, and will be putting together a Megasquirt system running stock digi components to see if I can get more 'area under the curve' with more tuneable fuel and ignition tables. We'll see....
 

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Re: (bubba_vw)

cis L can be richened up a little by closing the "thermo switch"
it basically ignores o2 at that point, sends cold/rich signal to cisl freq valve.
same as grounding the o2 wire
it seems like keeping thermoswitch closed helped in the winter, while leaving my full throttle switch disconnected help in 100 degree days
 

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Re: How to make a fuel enrichment module for CIS-E (GoKraut)

Would you happen to have the schematic and parts list to your version GoKraut?


Modified by johnnyGO at 8:28 AM 3-19-2009
 

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Awesome news!
Any chance some of the pics can be resized? I'm using a 21.6" monitor and having to side-scroll hardcore. It's quite inconvenient to read efficiently.
Keep up the good work!
 

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Re: (BSD)

Quote, originally posted by BSD »
Closing the thermo switch made my car impossible to idle.. it'd die instantly.. but it had a good top end!

Steve-

then turn down the idle mixture, switch on, until it idles
 

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This may be a dumb question but here it goes anyways. What about adjusting the WOT switch to engage before WOT? My powerband starts about 3800-4k and levels off before I even get the pedal pinned.
 

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I do that with my limit switch mount at the gas pedal. I have bent the actuator at the WOT switch in the past as well to make it click in sooner.
 

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Re: (chois)

Quote, originally posted by chois »
I then put a mechanical limit switch on the pedal box that is normally closed, and opens at about 60% throttle.

 
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