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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Over the weekend I finally got the OEM Rear View Camera (RVC) installed on my 2012 Passat SE w/ NAVI. These instructions should be 99% the same for either the SE or SEL with the RNS-315 or RNS -510 NAVI units.

Parts Needed:

  1. 5N0-827-566-J I believe this is the Jetta handle, but either way, it fits the Passat perfectly. It has to be J. G will not work because it is Coax, not RGB.
  2. 5M1-970-161-AC video signal wire (19’-5”)
  3. Maloosheck Harness for '10+ Jetta SportWagen (21’)
  4. VAGCOM CAN-USB interface with VCDS

Tools Needed (probably incomplete list) linked to amazon where I bought them:

  1. Torx set I only used T20 and T25 I think, but the whole set is handy
  2. Prision Shank (that is what I call this amazing trim tool)
  3. Trim Removal Set
  4. Multimeter
  5. Tweezers or some sort of CECM pin removal tool (paper clips, dental cleaning pick, etc)

I will edit this post with photos in a day or so... and clean up a bit. This is just my first pass at getting the ideas out of my head. 11/21/2011

  1. Trim Removal
    • First step is to remove all the trim necessary to get to the NAVI, CECM, and Fuses. First pull the NAVI trim. Shift into neutral (parking break on!) and pull from the bottom by the passenger airbag light. This will pop the bottom tabs. Then pull from the right of the steering wheel column where the silver (or wood in SEL) trim ends. From there I used my prision shank trim tool to pop the rest. Pretty easy, but there is a bit of a lip where the dash overhangs this trim so be careful and just let the clips pop. It goes back in very easy.

    • Next pop the fuse cover. This is exposed with the drivers side door open. Look in your manual if you can't find it. I used my key to pop this one open.
    • Last is the damn CECM. Remove the change drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides to release it. Takes a decent amount of force to get it out but be careful. Then that will expose 3 torx screws (T20's I think) Unscrew all 3 to free the bottom trim panel (has floor heater vents and VCDS interface in it). Then there is 1 tab in the other panel that releases the whole trim. Thanks to Andy @ RossTech for help on this one and sending me some photos before I dug in.

  2. Radio Removal
    • Disconnect Battery - Somewhere around this point I decided to disconnect the -NEG lead on the battery to insure I didn't fry anything. Might not be necessary, but didn't hurt.... Although it did cause an airbag light to come on (see issues at the bottom)
    • Remove Radio - 4 Torx screws and then it slides right out

  3. Radio Connection
    This part was easy. When you pop the radio you will see a few cables in the back, SAT Radio, and the big wire bundle that heads to the left. I fished my 5M1-970-161-AC (video cable) from just below the steering column, across the column and then followed that big wire bundle into the NAVI slot. Plugging in the video cable required removing the SAT Radio antenna in order to get access to the plug. There is a pop out clip on the antenna input and then it slides out. Took 2 minutes to figure out, but no big deal. Then I plugged in the video cable and cable tied it to the wire bundle to relive any cable stress.

    I should note that the video cable is an EXACT fit for this car, so don't leave any unnecessary slack. You need every inch.

    (Photo Credit)
  4. Run Cables
    From this point you need to figure out what works for you to get the cables to the back. There are probably 10 different ways to do this.
    I put 1 end of Maloosheck's Harness in the fuse box and the other end was to be run in parallel with the video cable. I fished them through the Hood Release Lever Panel (lower A pillar?) without removing it, and then through the 2 floor/door trims that I removed with my trim tools. Then I removed the Mid C-Pillar (I call it the seat belt trim panel) that goes from the floor to the speaker deck in the back. This panel gives you trunk access. The rear drivers side seat has to be down though. From there I followed the existing cables into the trunk. An assistant (Thanks Ben!) is really helpful here to grab the wires when they pop out.

  5. Trunk Work
    • Once the cables are in the trunk you are in the home stretch (ignoring the damn CECM for now, which is a time suck). I followed the existing cable path across the trunk (around the trunk shock) and into the support arm trim. That trim pops right off but is a pain to get back on. You probably need to modify the inside to accommodate more wires, as it is only big enough for the existing wire bundle. You will see what I mean when you get there.

    • The rubber grommet that the wires pass through into the trunk hood pops right out. I then popped 2 new holes with a screw driver into it for my 2 new cables.
    • At this point you should have already removed the blue cover around the video cable. If not it will be really hard to get it through the grommet. Also, make sure the Maloosheck harness pins are protected with electrical tape or something before you push them through.
    • Next remove the trunk hood access panel. Very easy. 2 T20 screws in the "Pull Down Handles" and then the whole panel pops off. Easiest access of the whole day.
    • Next, remove your license plate. You will need that 1/4" of space.
    • Then use a socket wrench to remove the 2 bolts holding the existing trunk button in place. There is a silver metal cover too that will come off with it. At this point the button is semi free.
    • All that is holding it in is the switch cables (unplug them now) and 1 tab on either side. Depress them and the switch/button will pop out on the outside.
    • The reverse the sequence to put the new one back in.
    • Then connect all the wires up. Put the video clip back on, and connect it to the video wire, Put Maloosheck's pins into the clip and make sure they match up with the same color on the RVC camera

  6. CECM Connection
    This part is a total pain in the ass. There is no way around it. It sucks. I didn't have the right tools and it took forever for me. Next time it would probably be 20 minutes vs 90 now that I learned the tricks, but it was 90 minutes easily of my back bent like a ? and 3 days of advil to follow.

    • Anyway, you need to wire the yellow switched line from Maloosheck's harness to CECM C/28 (reverse lights)
    • Wiggle your self under the dash so you are looking up at the CECM module. On my car A = black, B = white, and C = brown/tan/gold.
    • Remove C. Easy.
      Photo Credit
    • Remove the outer lock around the plug by depressing the 2 tabs (manipulating the little arms at the top and bottom).
    • Then you split the inside of the plug in half. It will slide apart. Be careful you don't stretch anything too far.
      Photo Credit
    • From here you need to identify pin 28. The writing is really really tiny, but it is there. Make sure you are 100% sure it says 28. Or at least the one next to it is 27 ;-) 28 is on the end of a group of 4 or 5 if that helps. And on mine it was a blue wire, but who knows if that is consistent.
    • Pull pin 28 out. This part is hard, but this is what finally worked for me. Grab the blue wire before it goes into the plug with 1 hand. With the other hand use the thin tweezers (1 side only) to depress the little pin holes that are on the front side (the female side of the connection that plugs into the actual CECM module). As you press into those 2 little slits that surround pin 28 it will eventually release the pin, so you need to keep outgoing pressure on that wire. That way when it is released you will pull it out. I was so excited when it finally came out that if I wasn't trapped under a dash with arms like jello I would have done a little dance :)
    • Plug the male side of Maloosheck's harness into the female side you just pulled out, and then heat shrink the tubing on them to make it secure.
    • Then slip the female side of the harness yellow pin back into the CECM plug and reassemble.

  7. Fuse Connection
    You have 2 options for power.
    1. Wire into the back of the fuse panel. I didn't want to further take apart my dash to get the fuse box out. Plus I was a little nervous about VW warrantee issues this may cause (give them an excuse), so I didn't go this route. Add a fuse is safer in my mind. Feel free to disagree. Undoubtly wiring into the back of the fuse box is a cleaner and more OEM install.
    2. Use an add-a-fuse circuit. This was easy. On the B7 Passat fuse space #16 is full already, so you can use 14 or 15. Both are constant hot slots (not switched), which is what you need.
    3. I bought an mini add-a-fuse at auto zone. Then I took the power cable that came with the 5M1-970-161-AC video cable and cut the last 6" off of it to include the male mini terminal.
    4. I stripped 1 cm off the cut end, crimped that into the add a fuse and then tested connectivity with my volt meter. Clear from fuse tip to mini terminal.
    5. Then I plugged the mini terminal into Malooshsck's harness end (female) and heat shrunk it. My thought here was that if I ever wanted to wire into the panel, all I have to do is free that pin from the heat shrink and it will plug right into the panel back.
    6. Lastly, make sure you connect the brown ground wire. I used the top screw of the fuse panel as my ground.

  8. Clean Up
    At this point I put everything back together again. All Trim back, etc. If you are unsure of your work you might want to save this for later.
    DONT FORGET to reconnect your battery (and reset your clocks now).
  9. VCDS
    Photos and instructions from this thread.
    1. Open VCDS, Select control module
    2. Select 37-Navigation
    3. Click on Coding-07
    4. Click Long Coding Helper
    5. click on byte 3 (it is the 4th window from left....color will change from green to yellow)
      checkmark Bit 6 (Rear-View-Camera(RVC) installed/active)
      click exit to get back to prior window
    6. Click Do It!
    7. Coding Accepted, click OK

At this point you should be done. Start her up. Put it into reverse and you will see behind you. Magic.


  1. I had the add-a-fuse facing the wrong way. Dumb mistake that I caught after about realizing I wasn't getting 12V power to the plug in the trunk
  2. CECM. Getting that pin out was a huge pain. On top of that, I am not 100% sure you need it for it to work. I did a quick test before I did the CECM part, and it didn't work. However, the above mentioned fuse issue was in effect -- so it wouldn't have worked either way. When I did the CECM step and then fixed the fuse it worked. I am curious to have somebody try it with out the CECM and see what they get.
  3. When I reconnected the battery I got my airbag warning light on. There was no current alarm, but apparently disconnecting the "Passanger Airbag" light when you remove the NAVI trim toggles a flag. In retrospect if you disconnect the battery before taking out the trim you might avoid this. All I had to do was clear the alarm w/ VCDS. Not a big issue. Just annoying.

Links to similar installs that really helped me with this one:

A big thanks to my cousin Ben for helping me out on this project, @Nightofdreams for getting this kicked off and figuring out the part number issues, Andy @ Ross Tech for knowing where the CECM was and how to get to it, and Maloosheck for his awesome harness and answering about a dozen little questions I had.

26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your correct. I fixed my typo. I thought I was working off my corrected notes. The proper one is J, as in Jetta. That is the RGB version, and the other letter code indicated Coax version (possibly for use with a controller module... who knows).


1,784 Posts
Wow, great write up! Where are you located? I'd also pay for you to install it. :)
Me too! :laugh:

I will definitely be referring back to this when I get ready to do mine. Thank you for taking the time and providing all the information for us! :beer::beer::thumbup:

1,115 Posts
You may want to pull your radio and see if it has the yellow connector on the back:

My understanding is that some RCD-510's do, some don't.
Thanks, I will check that for sure and I need to order a VAG COM because asking for help is getting frustrating.:( Any recommendations for working on late model VWs only, including the Passat TDI? Micro-CAN?

ID.4, 997.1
15,430 Posts
Thanks, I will check that for sure and I need to order a VAG COM because asking for help is getting frustrating.:( Any recommendations for working on late model VWs only, including the Passat TDI? Micro-CAN?
The Micro-CAN works fine with the B7 Passat as well as everything else that is pretty much based on the Mk5 Golf:


The HEX-USB+CAN is the way to go if you also want to work on older cars or more expensive ones, covers everything VW/Audi 1996-2012:


481 Posts
more questions

Nice write up! Few quick questions... first - anyone try this without the CECM steps yet?? Second, do the lines move with the stearing wheel, or fixed lines? Saw that in a different thread/differnt model too I think.
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