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How to test if your MAF is bad

762 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  marriedblonde
As the subject says, how do you test if your maf sensor has gone bad. Can you test the resistance accross pins or anything? I'm asking because I keep getting limp mode in my car due to a 17705 error (pressure drop between throttle body and turbo check DV - I have replaced the DV with a known working stock one and an aftermarket forge version!) and someone suggested that this may be the cause.

Thanks
J.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (marriedblonde)

Well, if you get a pressure drop, then it's probably a DV problem, unless you have boost leak. What were the results after you replaced the DV??
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (roadsleeper)

roadsleeper, I have tried a stock DV, a new revision stock DV and a forge DV. Always the same result. Rev it past 4000rpm and it goes into limp mode. This is after clearing the fault codes with a VAG-com.
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (marriedblonde)

Don't know if it will work the same or not, but when I had a TDI and the MAF went bad I disconnected the MAF drove the car home. It didn't have the same power but the car ran better, put in a new MAF and all was good.
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (wuznme)

You might try the MAF cleaning procedure with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Instructions here: http://roadsleeper.vwmafia.net/maf.html
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (marriedblonde)

If you have a VAG COM, run blocks 6 and 32. If the reading exceeds 10%, your MAF is on its way out. Also, if you remove the MAF, look at the connector – if it’s black and or discolored, this too can be a sign of failure.


[Modified by Knockwurst, 1:53 PM 2-11-2002]
Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (marriedblonde)

Well, it certainly sounds like a boost leak somewhere... I'll be honest with you, I am not too well versed in the workings of the 1.8Ts. Check the data blocks as Knockwurst suggested, and see if that yields anything. You could try my cleaning procedure as BORA_WE suggested, but if you are under warranty I would only use that as a last ditch attempt. Another place to post this question would be in the 1.8T forum, perhaps you will find more answers there.
The reason I don't think the MAF is at fault is because you say the car goes into limp mode after 4000 rpms. With the 2.0s and the VR6s the MAF failure leads to limp mode immediately. Symptoms of this are that the engine is running lean, it is idling rough, and as you've noticed lack of power.
Wish I could give you a more definitive answer, sorry.
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Re: How to test if your MAF is bad (roadsleeper)

Every one a big thanks for your replies, I'll try logging the data blocks suggested. Cheers!
I am under the impression that I have a boost leak because it's not until I hit MAX boost that the car goes into limp mode.
Thanks again
J.
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