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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
who has one that's been rendered scrap, but is still whole? i need to dismantle it and see if i can eliminate the clutch packs in favor of full time awd.

i also want to see what can be done about adding cooling (i.e. external cooler) and in general making my R a bit tougher.

thanks!
 

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There is a part you can buy to make it knob controlled. 0%-50%.

You could add a cooler plus that part to get full time AWD.

I would like to find a way to just bolt a S4 rear end or something crazy.
 

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Chris,

Why not swap a Quattro drivetrain in there. Im sure u can make it work, lol

What if you were to pull clutchpacks and weld in a solid shaft to the pinion gear ( terminology may be off here) so its a full mechanical AWD? While ur add it, install a Rear LSD. hahaha
 

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Are you guys talking about that knob from SQS Racing? if so isnt it designed to allow u to incerease the amount of "AWD" uw ant for DRAG purposes?
 

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We run a Haldex switch on the MK1....when you need everything engaged at once flick the switch and the Haldex is on....instant 50/50 front to back torque split. As above you would not run this all the time or you will over heat the haldex fluid/clutch pack/pump.

The Quattro rear diff will not work as you will need to match the input and out from the gearbox/transfer to the diff...no mean feat.
 

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$800!!!!! all you need is an on off switch to stop and start the Haldex pump manually and over ride the controller.
this is adjustable, so you can bias the distrobution however much you want front to rear.. Sounds like you have a good idea of how to maniplulate the haldex, so lets design our own?
 

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ive been thinking about eliminating the clutch packs for awhile now by extending the driveshaft direct to the rear...i had a spare rear end/ haldex setup i was going to tear apart and see wut could be done but i needed money and sold it :(
 

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and I estimated $800 shipped to the us since its not listed in US currency and I suck at math, haha. So if anyone wants to give an accurate estimate of how much this would cost US currency and shipped, that would be cool.

http://www.sqsracing.com/produkt/314:406:haldex-regulator-controler-valve
looking at that setup you are trying to "slip" the clutch plates for varying degrees of torque to the rear....this wil prematurely "burn" the oil and possibly wear the clutch plates out. The haldex on the mk4 is on or off for this reason. The MK5 with Gen2 Haldex can vary torque a little as the design is different.
 

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looking at that setup you are trying to "slip" the clutch plates for varying degrees of torque to the rear....this wil prematurely "burn" the oil and possibly wear the clutch plates out. The haldex on the mk4 is on or off for this reason. The MK5 with Gen2 Haldex can vary torque a little as the design is different.
what is the best solution? extending the drive shaft?
 

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what is the best solution? extending the drive shaft?
I would personally and remove the Haldex unit from the front of the Diff if you just want 4wd all the time. You will as you say need to extend the propshaft and possibly make a casing for the front of the Diff.

The Manual on/off switch is the best of both worlds because you can keep the Haldex as is all the time 2WD and only 4WD when needed or you can flick the switch and just lock the Haldex clutches on for full 4WD for those moments you want it....then you don't need to add cooling etc or hurt the Haldex system.
 

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I would personally and remove the Haldex unit from the front of the Diff if you just want 4wd all the time. You will as you say need to extend the propshaft and possibly make a casing for the front of the Diff.

The Manual on/off switch is the best of both worlds because you can keep the Haldex as is all the time 2WD and only 4WD when needed or you can flick the switch and just lock the Haldex clutches on for full 4WD for those moments you want it....then you don't need to add cooling etc or hurt the Haldex system.
How do i make a manual on off switch? I am doing this.. :beer: :thumbup:
 

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Here are the ELSA wiring diagrams to add your switch and power to manually activate the Haldex pump....





 

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Apparently nobody here has ever tried to drive a 4wd truck (one with a transfer
case) in 4HI on dry pavement.
If you had, you'd know how bad of an idea this all is. Without any give, it binds
in all corners, and the tires drag and skip. It puts a lot of stress on the axles
and eventually tears stuff up.

And no, the Gen 1 Haldex unit is not simply "on" or "off". It engages to varying degrees
depending various inputs. It's fairly easy to demonstrate partial engagement by letting the car
roll back in neutral in a sloped parking lot with the steering wheel turned to full lock and
then gradually increasing the engine rpms. Halex will progressively engage in
rough proportion to the rpms and eventually the drivetain binding as it reaches
full engagement will cause the car to stop rolling.

What the latest gen Haldex adds is not the ability to vary the torque split while moving,
which it already had, but the ability to build enough pressure to engage the clutch pack
while not moving so it's ready to go on launch. Gen 1 haldex has an electric pump, but it is
only to prime the mechanical pump and can't itself engage the clutch pack.

ian
 
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