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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I still hate plastic parts, as I have had to replace yet another outlet flange on my car......Good thing I buy spares....

But wait there is more.
From a thread that Ron did many years ago I remembered it and finally started to investigate.
It is now safe to say that I have gotten rid of the farging fecking(irish) plastic outlet flanges on my Digifant car.

I don't have pics of it but I can tell you what I did.
I came to the conclusion that the vibration of the upper radiator hose over time weakened the plastic mount ears, lets face it, the dam thing is under engine torque vibration all the frigging time. It is an accident waiting to happen a plastic time bomb.

I ordered 2 of the new improved metal t-stat covers.


I replaced the drivers side outlet flanges ages ago, got them off a old Diesel Rabbit. The front upper radiator outlet flange stumped me....


Now I have the answer Thanks Ron......
From this:




To this



There are 2 styles of flanges that I found at the "yard" one was off a 87 FOX with no drilled bung for a thermo run switch, and the other off a 89
Cabriolet that had the drilled bung for a thermo run. Look for the ones that don't have the oil cooler, or you will have to plug it off too.

You will need a new o-ring.
You will need an oil pressure/coolant temp sender.

You will need a CTS sensor off a 16V golf engine.


This CTS sensor is the same electrically as the blue CTS sensor, so it will perform the same, and the connector end will be there.

You only have to reverse how they are installed, as you want the CTS to be on top of the flange so vibration and gravity do not cause it to come off.

After you connect the new flange to the engine do not fully tighten you will have to modify the coolant temp sender (black) to single pin.
You cut off the old connector, and replace the yellow/red wire with a male spad connector. You will take the brown ground wire, and place a
ring connector on it that will fit on the flange bolt (ring or open end spad will work).
Attach the ring connector over the bolt and fully tighten the flange bolts to 87 in/lbs.
Connect your Blue CTS connector to the new CTS switch.... and presto.

Along with the heater hose brass barbed fitting, you have replaced most of all the farging feckin plastic parts on a digi that are prone to breakage.



Hope this helps folks in the future.

Now, they make a metal heater valve and it is available at Summit racing.. So you can eliminate 75 percent of all plastic parts with only the Radiator, Heater core, and Expansion jug left.
 

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FV-QR

On the gauge temperature sender wiring, nothing at all needs to be done with the brown ground wire, just leave it dangling.

The single pin gauge temperature sender grounds itself though it's body and threads and the metal flange and the cylinder head.

If you follow that brown, ground wire on the schematics, you'll see that the other end goes to........... ground. Grounding the loose end with an eyelet only succeeds in connecting one ground to another, completely unneeded in this instance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the gauge temperature sender wiring, nothing at all needs to be done with the brown ground wire, just leave it dangling.

The single pin gauge temperature sender grounds itself though it's body and threads and the metal flange and the cylinder head.

If you follow that brown, ground wire on the schematics, you'll see that the other end goes to........... ground. Grounding the loose end with an eyelet only succeeds in connecting one ground to another, completely unneeded in this instance.
I know but I am Anal about loose wires especially groundy ones... :)
 

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I HATE plastic parts as well. Here's the one I got...



Pulled it off of an '86 Jetta. Date on Manf. was 11/85, so, that's an '86, right?

Anyway, I know Briano said specifically NOT to get one with an oil cooler, but this was all I could find. As you can see I have three of four openings plugged, with only the oil cooler hose nipple remaining. While I was there I also pulled EVERYTHING having to do with the oil cooler. Hoses, filter flange, metal piping, and the cooler itself, plus clamps and hardware. Is there any huge problem with me retro fitting the oil cooler onto my non-oil cooler having engine??

Also, I was "visiting" my local parts broker getting the sensors and what not, he told me a story about a molded hose that takes the place of the T in the metal tubing. Pretty pricey at $60, but if it saves me having to mess with the metal tubing I'm considering it. Any reason why THIS will not work for my application??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I HATE plastic parts as well. Here's the one I got...



Pulled it off of an '86 Jetta. Date on Manf. was 11/85, so, that's an '86, right?

Anyway, I know Briano said specifically NOT to get one with an oil cooler, but this was all I could find. As you can see I have three of four openings plugged, with only the oil cooler hose nipple remaining. While I was there I also pulled EVERYTHING having to do with the oil cooler. Hoses, filter flange, metal piping, and the cooler itself, plus clamps and hardware. Is there any huge problem with me retro fitting the oil cooler onto my non-oil cooler having engine??

Also, I was "visiting" my local parts broker getting the sensors and what not, he told me a story about a molded hose that takes the place of the T in the metal tubing. Pretty pricey at $60, but if it saves me having to mess with the metal tubing I'm considering it. Any reason why THIS will not work for my application??
Personally, I wouldn't install a VW oil cooler on your ride..... that "t" hose is a pain in the ass to install and is very pricey.
They are more attune to a oil stabilizer than a cooler. That is they keep the oil at the radiator temp.
An External kit will reduce your coolant temp, and not spike and ebb like a VW one will.
An external kit will not leak oil into your a/f and over pressurize and burst your hoses, radiator, heater core if it leaks internally.

I have a thread where you can install a external one out of "Yard parts" and on my Automatics in the summer it makes a world of difference cruising down the highway.
As they are thermostatically controlled, they usually don't work in the cold until the oil gets up to temp.

http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/32200-Installing-an-External-Oil-Cooler
 

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Ok, you convinced me. No VW oil cooler. Working on a way to plug the hole so that will hold water, and not look totally stupid. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take the part into the BORG (home depot), and get a rubber cap for drain lines.

Some one somewhere was selling remanufactured outlets with no oil cooler... I can't remember, they were like 25 bucks or so.
026 121 133 D should be the part number.
 

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Take the part into the BORG (home depot), and get a rubber cap for drain lines.

Some one somewhere was selling remanufactured outlets with no oil cooler... I can't remember, they were like 25 bucks or so.
026 121 133 D should be the part number.
See above. We must have posted at almost exactly the same time. Creepy.
The TT version goes for $40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
See above. We must have posted at almost exactly the same time. Creepy.
The TT version goes for $40.
Even at 40 bucks each, that is the cost of a couple of those kits, and to be honest, I replace one or two a year...
(2 cabbies).

So If I hadn't found them at the yard, I still would be better off getting one of those.
 

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Now, they make a metal heater valve and it is available at Summit racing.. So you can eliminate 75 percent of all plastic parts with only the Radiator, Heater core, and Expansion jug left.
Can't seem to locate this one. Do you have a part number or link? TIA :thumbup:
 

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Thanks for the links. :thumbup:

However, it would definitely need some small modifications to get the cable hooked up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Found this on ebay, but it was the last of them. I am hoping to get the manufacturer name and pn off the part when it arrives.
The one I got from summit, while well made is total soldered together, so modifying it will be a pain in the arse.

This one however looks to be the cat's pajamas.


SummitRacing has one but they want 50 dollars for it.... So I am awaiting on this beasty.... it was only 30.

The hose mender or hose-to-hose Brass is avail at the BORG, it is 5/8 and works like a champ. I used a tad of grease on the barb to insert it.
Getting those spring clips off was a real pain in the arse as the booster or what kept getting in my way. The Hose clamps work well as the Spring clips were almost too small for the confined area to get it on the heater hose from the firewall.

5/8 inch hose mender.





That will be the last of my plastic frigging parts.......
 

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^ Would love to see an update on what you were able to work out. Pics of the setup installed would also be appreciated! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A heads up to those that buy the t-stat cover from GAP.

The second one I installed was really really sharp on the machined edges, so much so that I used a little crocus cloth to smooth out the sharpness on the edges as I didn't want it to possibly cut the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just an update, why I still hate plastic parts.

Had a coolant loss that I couldn't find Looked high and low but to no avail, then today I saw the tell-tale glowing under uv light of my Radiator Core leaking at the inside seam.

So I decided to Order the All Aluminum Radiator which wasn't any more than the Plastic/aluminum that I had, besides it did last about @ 12 years so one last plastic part removed, all that is left is the Heater core, and the Expansion jug. At least this one didn't split the tank away from the Crimp over that my 81 Diesel did because of the fixed mount, and the stupid clip.

On a different note, I did find the Radiator pin mounts at napa for 6 bucks for 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
SIDE by Side comparison, there are bosses on the front towards the Grille that need to be trimmed to make it fit similar to the OEM. You are also going to need 4X.05 or .08mm screws to attach the fan shroud to the new radiator.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The new radiator cools better, I have lower oil temps until it is run about 20 minutes, and the water temp gets up there, but in my drive to work my old one that leaked would allow my oil to get to 110 and the water temp would reach 1/2 to 3/4 scale..It doesn't any more and I am very lucky to get the oil up to 80...

But interstate road driving I can get it the oil up to temp but the water temp may reach 1/2 deflection. Very worthwhile upgrade to the cooling system.
 
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