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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
still learning(a LOT, daily) about the VAG group. i come from a long line of super hot japanese cars but at this point im old and tired of every a-hole in a 350Z or Challenger wanting to drag race from a stop light while im on my way to work. i had an MK6 GTI that i liked a lot, so i bought an MK6 Golf R.

well, turns out the head is coming off said Golf R, hopefully for just a couple of valves, so i figured id reach out to you as a collective and see what else YOU would replace if this were your car. note: already has APR springs/retainers, intake, HPFP, turbo back, motor mounts, clutch, and APR Stage 2+ software

ARP head studs?
VIS balance shaft delete(yes, i understand not head-related, but website says 30min install lol may as well just have it done same time)?
IE intake manifold, or manifold runner flap delete?
proper coolant-heated and recirculating Air/Oil Seperator?
AEM meth kit?
Twintercooler or normal FMIC that bypasses the stocker?
go all in on the APR GTX or a TTE turbo kit?
 

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still learning(a LOT, daily) about the VAG group. i come from a long line of super hot japanese cars but at this point im old and tired of every a-hole in a 350Z or Challenger wanting to drag race from a stop light while im on my way to work. i had an MK6 GTI that i liked a lot, so i bought an MK6 Golf R.

well, turns out the head is coming off said Golf R, hopefully for just a couple of valves, so i figured id reach out to you as a collective and see what else YOU would replace if this were your car. note: already has APR springs/retainers, intake, HPFP, turbo back, motor mounts, clutch, and APR Stage 2+ software

ARP head studs?
VIS balance shaft delete(yes, i understand not head-related, but website says 30min install lol may as well just have it done same time)?
IE intake manifold, or manifold runner flap delete?
proper coolant-heated and recirculating Air/Oil Seperator?
AEM meth kit?
Twintercooler or normal FMIC that bypasses the stocker?
go all in on the APR GTX or a TTE turbo kit?
What's the intended use of the car? Track\Autocross, fun DD etc... Why cause a 600HP monster will not make a great track car. A track car will need a ton of supporting mods to keep her ship shape while running all day at WOT. A fun DD\street car doesn't need all the supporting mods cause it will rarely make that 600 or whatever HP cause you will not be up in that part of the power band except for dyno days. Even if you street race (it's illegal even in Mexico) you will not see all that power to the ground. So what's your poison?

Me I'm a track guy so I put a premium on cooling and supporting mods at the expense of the highest possible HP number. I'm not going beyond S2 cause I'd rather spend that money on driver instruction, tire funds and suspension\chassis development IN THAT ORDER...

Needless to say you have P&P, big cams, full valve train upgrade including fully machined head and increased valve sizing etc... Are you going S3\Big turbo?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's the intended use of the car? ... So what's your poison?

...Needless to say you have P&P, big cams, full valve train upgrade including fully machined head and increased valve sizing etc... Are you going S3\Big turbo?
my intended use is a fun street car/daily driver, but in that same breath im coming from a 700hp+ STI wagon. admittedly, while the STI was fun at first, it quickly became annoying to DD, hence the purchase of an MK6 GTI that i really enjoyed driving. the only thing i didn't like about the GTI aside from some minor creature comforts and some minor appearance flaws was the fact that WOT was not achievable in 1-2 gear on fairly good tires. sooo, my thought was the Golf R had the creature comforts my GTI was missing, plus AWD should be able to put the power down in lower gears, and topping it all off is the fact that the car is near flawless inside and out.

now, the car was originally used(by OG owner) as a track toy only, so it already has high end coilovers, sway bars, big brakes, Haldex controller, beefy clutch, and im sure theres things ive not stumbled upon yet, as ive never actually driven the car yet nor given it a proper thorough inspection. i bought it kinda sight unseen with a misfire and sent it straight to a VW specialist for diagnosis and repair.

my reasoning for coming here and asking is because i don't know if theres a weak link(or otherwise something that people would typically upgrade/replace since the head is coming off) in the top end of these cars besides the intake manifold flaps(which manifold or deletes would fix) and carbon build up like any other DI car(which would be covered by AOS and/or Meth injection). head studs just seem like a no-brainer, as well as a gasket set and timing set. i dont have a trustworthy machine shop local to cut the head for big valves/P&P or the time to wait on sending it out somewhere, and for the life of me, cant seem to find cams for these cars.
 

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Got it. Thing is you are already answering your own question with your response. Because you had a 700 plus STI you already know the dilly. A 6-700 HP four cylinder turbo is not that fun compared to a 4-500 HP four cylinder turbo. You would have to go big turbo and the lag sucks the fun out. While a S2 K04 is maxed out, the response is way better on the street than some S3 big turbo. With an intake manifold like the IE\HPA\ECS Tuning (neither will add more than 8-10 HP on an S2) and throttle piping plus cams your not going to make earth shattering dyno numbers BUT the driveability of the car will increase cause throttle response will increase. But like I said you had a big number STI so a big number GoRf will not be much different.
 
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I would replace the cam follower with iAbed's roller system while the head is off. Also I have read good things about the Fluidamper, which is fairly cheap and easy.

If you do the runner flap delete, be prepared for rough idle at cold startup. I had it and I don't think it is worth it. It's kind of like a surging idle for the first couple of minutes. Not the greatest when negotiating parking lots and such. I'm not sure if the aftermarket intakes suffer from the same issue because I'm pretty sure they all do not have runner flaps. The flaps are there specifically for cold starts to redirect the airflow into the cylinder until it is warmed up. EngineeringExplained has a video on it.
 
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I would replace the cam follower with iAbed's roller system while the head is off. Also I have read good things about the Fluidamper, which is fairly cheap and easy.

If you do the runner flap delete, be prepared for rough idle at cold startup. I had it and I don't think it is worth it. It's kind of like a surging idle for the first couple of minutes. Not the greatest when negotiating parking lots and such. I'm not sure if the aftermarket intakes suffer from the same issue because I'm pretty sure they all do not have runner flaps. The flaps are there specifically for cold starts to redirect the airflow into the cylinder until it is warmed up. EngineeringExplained has a video on it.
Haaaaaa perfect timing lol... I'm going to be doing a total and complete rebuild on my motor in the spring time. It's a real awesome project so excited but even I forgot about the roller system. Only thing negative I've heard is its expensive when compared to just changing the cam follower every other year or so at $20-$30 a pop.

I'll throw it into my monster rebuild. I'll be having my head completely machined including new valve train and tons of other goodies. It's going to be super expensive cause like I said I'm pulling the motor, stripping down to the block and building back up. I'm not doing it for headline dyno numbers I'm doing it cause I have not had a car payment in quite a few years and I'm never selling or getting rid of this car or my .:R32 till the day I die. I'll be doing a ton of stuff that has never been done before and I'm able to pay the price and it's worth it to me but it may not be for you which is all good.
 
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Runner flaps can be tuned out. Won't get your catalyst up to optimum temps as quickly (gasp oh noes!)... but doubt that'd be a concern.....

How many miles? Timing service and water pump probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Runner flaps can be tuned out. Won't get your catalyst up to optimum temps as quickly (gasp oh noes!)...How many miles? Timing service and water pump probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
yeah Cat temps aren’t a major concern lol just looking for reliability or drivability upgrades while it’s open. Has about 30k on it and already had timing set on my list ;)
 

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Runner flaps can be tuned out. Won't get your catalyst up to optimum temps as quickly (gasp oh noes!)... but doubt that'd be a concern.....
There were several attempts at tuning for Runner Flap Delete on my previous car (totaled for hail) but they could never get it (UM). Maybe they have it figured out since then?
 

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I am still in the midst of bringing my R back to life after getting it with a broken timing belt, bent valves and various valvetrain carnage. I got a bad case of the "while I'm there's", went off the deep end and am pretty much doing everything, including the bottom end that really didn't need it for the 450hp I am aiming at (TTE 480 turbo). I want the most reliable, strong engine I can have while retaining daily driver like drive ability. I don't want a 600hp engine with a 5-8k RPM powerband that is a pain to drive on the street.

Personally, I really don't know why anyone would do the "runner flap delete" on a street car. VW went to great lengths to put that in and it really helps with the low end torque. The minor increase in top end doesn't justify the trade-offs for me. The IE intake manifold does look cool though...
 
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