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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to replace a faulty ignition switch. I've removed the steering wheel and wiper/turn signal switches. How do I remove the black plastic collar on the steering column? Is there anyway to do it without going out to buy a puller? Also, it looks like I'll need to remove the upper half of the plastic steering column cover to get the ignition switch out, but I don't see how that's possible without removing the freaking dash (?)! Any help would be appreciated!




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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, next question: I suspected a faulty ignition switch because the engine wasn't turning off when the key was turned to the off position. Everything else turned off like it should (fresh air fan, lights, radio, etc), but the engine would just keep running. I had to kill the engine by popping the clutch with the brake applied. Even so, the fuel pump would continue running until I popped the hood and momentarily disconnected the ground terminal from the battery.

But with the ignition switch pulled out, I just used a multimeter to test the circuits. Everything on the switch appears to be functioning correctly in the various key positions, when checked against the wiring diagram.

Is there something else that could be causing the engine to keep running when the key is turned to the off position?


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did you check fit?

this could be a short 'test'. Connect up the NEW switch (you'll need one anyway for $16.00)

Problem go away?

If not, you can try the slap the FP relay on the ground trick....that may unstick it.

Also there is a load reduction relay that sticks too.

Instead of removing the neg bat strap....just pop the red fuse out of the FP relay....that'll put it to sleep!:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I replaced the ignition switch with a brand new one, but the engine still won't cut off when I turn the key of the off position, so I know it's not the ignition switch.

After reading up on load reduction relays, I doubt it is a bad X relay, as the lights, fan, rear defroster, etc, all turn off when the key is either in the "start" or "off" position (as I understand it, this is what the load reduction relay powers, correct?). By the way, where is the load reduction relay physically located? I don't see any mention of it in the Bentley wiring diagram.

Next, I'm going to try slamming the fuel pump relay on the ground as Sciroccohal suggests. It seems like that's the most likely culprit, since when I turn the key off, the fuel pump continues running, even when I kill the engine by popping the clutch. I have to disconnect the ground strap at the battery in order to stop the fuel pump from running. If slamming this relay on the ground doesn't work, I'll try installing a new relay here.

Oh, and no signs of water in or around the fuse box (and my car has been sitting outside while it's been pissing down rain in Seattle for the last 2 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I slammed the fuel relay on the ground then tried it again. Engine still will not turn off.

But I take back my previous comment about a water leak. I poked around some more and discovered water dripping down the inside of the body just below the lower left corner of the windshield, and down the side of the fuse box.

Go given this leak, what are my options (after fixing the leak, of course)? Does the fuse box need to be replaced, or can it be dried out (say, put it in a bag of rice for a few days)? Anything else I should do or try?
 

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oy-vey!

I slammed the fuel relay on the ground then tried it again. Engine still will not turn off.

But I take back my previous comment about a water leak. I poked around some more and discovered water dripping down the inside of the body just below the lower left corner of the windshield, and down the side of the fuse box.

Go given this leak, what are my options (after fixing the leak, of course)? Does the fuse box need to be replaced, or can it be dried out (say, put it in a bag of rice for a few days)? Anything else I should do or try?
Okay Fritzi...So I'm from VT originally...this is the nascence of the stuff I know about srocks....everything BAD happens to them in VT.

In the old 'n cheap days....I'd dry out the relay plate with a hairdryer, after dropping it down and shaking it to get the water out. I then...much chuckling in Sciroccoland....
wrapped it in SARAN WRAP. Engineering by SARANBRANDS.

Yes, fix the windshield!

The real problem here is the years of corrosion in the leaves of the relay plate....hairdryering won't fix that.

Gulp.....buying a new (available) relay plate is the sure way of fixing that. Last time I checked they were quite reasonable at $99. Don't buy used....unless you KNOW the seller....that way you can throw it through his window!

Let us know how the FR relay works out. Open up the old relay by prying back the tabs.....have a look-see.:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And here's a photo of the water leak near the fuse box. This is looking up underneath the end of the rain tray. The fuse box is pulled out of its support bracket (you can see the left side of the bracket on the right side of the photo). There a drop of water visible in the center of the photo. It looks like it's coming from the gap behind the curved piece of metal at upper left.

 
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