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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Not sure if anyone else has had this issue after getting a new key programmed at a VW dealership, but hoping to find a remedy to this problem that doesn't require me to purchase/install a new Comfort Control Module...

Took my 2009 Jetta SE 2.5 in to a dealership on Thursday to have a new key programmed (bought the vehicle used about 2 months ago and only came with 1 key). Tried to use the in-door switch for the fuel door release to get gas later that day, but it wouldn't work -- also tested the trunk release next to it, but that also didn't work. Wouldn't have made it home on what I had left in the tank, so had to manually release the fuel door by crawling into the trunk, using the manual ("mafia handle") release the trunk, then manually triggering the solenoid for the fuel door.

Later on, I noticed that when all the doors are locked and I pressed unlock on my remote, it not only unlocks my driver side door, but also my trunk! This also happened when I double-pressed unlock, if one or more of the doors were already unlocked.

I took the car back to the dealership the next day, but they said all they could do was reprogram again. This didn't resolve the issue, so they inspected the vehicle and claimed that I needed a new CCM, which would cost me about $1,000 for the CCM and install labor.

I'm highly suspicious that they might've just mistakenly programmed my CCM for a Golf (or other vehicle with a rear gate), as my power windows and sunroof still work completely fine. I'm logically assuming that a Golf (or other vehicle with rear gate) would likely have their CCM programmed to unlock the gate at the same time as the door -- however, since a Jetta doesn't have a trigger to actually open the trunk, I'm assuming this is why the trunk is popping.

I was already considering purchasing a VCDS interface, so if anyone knows if this is something I can at least attempt to correct through VCDS programming of the CCM, then I'd be eternally grateful if you could also let me know what to do to program it properly for my Jetta. If this in fact is an issue experienced by others that does require a replacement of the CCM, please feel free to point me in the right direction for a DIY for that.

Thanks in advance for any help! :)


UPDATE 6/2/2018: Also found out that when I use the unlock button on my driver side door, it also pops the trunk along with the door(s) (didn't test to see if this occurred with unlock buttons on all the doors, but will update after I check later).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are they locked out with a key at the drivers door switch plate?
No, I made sure to double-check with the lock in both positions.

Also, I just updated the original post -- found out that when I use the unlock button on my driver side door, it also opens the trunk along with the door(s) (didn't test to see if this occurred with unlock buttons on all the doors, but will update after I check later today).
 

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Find someone to scan with Vcds and see if you have any Dtc. Should also be able to go to drivers door module and observe switch function in advance measuring blocks when you activate them. See if they were not coded out from long coding. Do output tests on trunk and fuel door in 46 ccm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Find someone to scan with Vcds and see if you have any Dtc. Should also be able to go to drivers door module and observe switch function in advance measuring blocks when you activate them. See if they were not coded out from long coding. Do output tests on trunk and fuel door in 46 ccm.
Thanks for the help, GTI's! Going to order VCDS this week and will report back once I get a chance to scan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
After a looooong delay (girlfriend and I both had significant career changes back-to-back), I finally had a chance to order VCDS and performed an auto-scan. Here's the log summary:

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: Malfunction 0010
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
Auto-scan turned up a few DTCs, but they're all known issues (a few due to intermittent movement restriction/jamming of the radiator fans, having an aftermarket radio installed, and having a dead rear driver side door latch), so I don't think it's an issue with the electronics or CCM -- made sure to save it, though, in case of any requests to see anything from the log.

How can I perform an output test on the trunk and fuel door? Have another road trip coming up at the start of October, so hoping to get this sorted by then so I don't have to keep reaching behind the trunk trim to manually pop my fuel door open lol
 

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Testing switch for function at drive door module 42



Buttons / switches not pushed




Fuel pushed shows its activated




Trunk hatch button pushed shows its activated




module 46




Output test for trunk/hatch




You can scroll through the Advanced measuring values/block and find other place to test buttons, switches, and motors.


Post up your Auto Scan between code tags
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Okaaaaay...still not entirely sure what I'm looking at/for, but here are my screenshots for everything you recommended:

Module 42


Buttons/Switches Not Pressed


Fuel Switch Pressed


Trunk Switch Pressed


Module 46 - Trunk Output Test


Current Coding


I did an output test for "Control Circuit for Tank Flap," but it just gave me "Output Test Sequence Complete" in green and nothing in the 4 boxes below it.
 

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On the last two screen shots for 46 do you have clearer pictures, hard to make out what's there.

Ok the the buttons are working and the 42 door control module sees them functioning.

Do you see the buttons functioning in Advanced measuring blocks at module 46 when you activate the trunk. At module 46 when doing output test for fuel flap it showed you complete but did you hear the motor and flap open? How about the truck output test do you hear the motor does it unlock?



Sent you a PM for wiring diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On the last two screen shots for 46 do you have clearer pictures, hard to make out what's there.

Ok the the buttons are working and the 42 door control module sees them functioning.

Do you see the buttons functioning in Advanced measuring blocks at module 46 when you activate the trunk. At module 46 when doing output test for fuel flap it showed you complete but did you hear the motor and flap open? How about the truck output test do you hear the motor does it unlock?



Sent you a PM for wiring diagrams.
You should be able to click on the images for the screen shots and it should open a tab/page with the full-sized image.

I don't recall checking in Advanced Measuring Blocks for Module 46, but I'll try it later this week. As far as hearing the fuel flap or trunk, neither of them make a sound when I try the switches inside the door.

Considering that I have not lost all capability to pop the trunk, given that the function still works (albeit, erroneously, when the door unlock is triggered via remote, any of the unlock switches on the inside of the doors, and even when I use a key to manually unlock the driver side door), and the fact that the dealership said all the performed was "programming" (coding), do you still think this could wiring issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Finally had a chance to check the Advanced Measuring Values, here is the screenshot -- activating the trunk lid door switch does not yield any changes in the "Actual" column and activating the tank lid door switch ("Request - Tank Lid Open") changes the value in "Actual" column to "Yes" (when not activated it says "No").

I noticed that your values in the "Actual" column for Rear Lid Main Latch and Pre-Latch both read "Closed", while mine read "Door Closed" and "Locked", respectively. Not sure if you can tell, but hopefully this is something I can fix by recoding.



Not sure if I should also be testing my remote buttons, but please let me know if this is needed and how to check. As I mentioned previously, the (door) unlock button currently pops my trunk for any instance where the door(s) to be unlocked is not already unlocked (e.g. if driver door is unlocked, pressing unlock once will not pop trunk, but if I double press to open remaining doors, trunk will pop again) and my trunk button does not ever pop the trunk.
 

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Or if anybody with a MKV 2-door could possibly post screenshots of their long coding helper so I could compare it to mine, it'd be greatly appreciated. I'm just very convinced that something is messed up there.

I even bought a replacement latch off Amazon and while it ended up being one that wouldn't physically fit (I think it was for an EOS) I still had the same errors and was unable to manually fire the trunk output test (Refused by control module like Screenshot 7 above). FWIW, wiring underneath the rubber at the hinge of the hatch looks fine. The only other thing I guess I could check would be continuity between the CCM and the pin at the hatch.
 

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I just bought a spare key and fob from dealer. Brought it to them to program and now trunk pops open when unlocking doors. Trunk button on fob doesn’t work. Previously with original key fob, everything worked just fine, including trunk button. Dealer blames me for short in wiring and wants $1,000+. I have vcds and will test. Curious if incorrect programming can cause this or if in fact wiring short would cause. Can’t imagine a reprogramming would trigger a wire short. Too coincidental. 2007 jetta 4 door
 

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I just bought a spare key and fob from dealer. Brought it to them to program and now trunk pops open when unlocking doors. Trunk button on fob doesn’t work. Previously with original key fob, everything worked just fine, including trunk button. Dealer blames me for short in wiring and wants $1,000+. I have vcds and will test. Curious if incorrect programming can cause this or if in fact wiring short would cause. Can’t imagine a reprogramming would trigger a wire short. Too coincidental. 2007 jetta 4 door
Post up the Auto Scan. What did dealer say you shorted? What happened to the older working key fob?
 

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Hi all- finally did a scan and tested the buttons. The fuel door switch appears to activate when pulled up. However, the fuel door does not open. However, the trunk switch (on the door) doesn’t show any activation when pulled up. The output test says the module for locking the rear lid was “refused by control module.” Same problem as others have posted, when unlocking doors with fob, the trunk pops open. The trunk button on the fob does nothing after the dealer “reprogrammed” our original key and the new spare key. Similar to what others state, if I unlock doors from door lock button, the trunk also pops open. I’m aware of the passenger rear door lock not functioning.
 
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