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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, after intsalling my clutch. I went to press on the pedal and the clutch pedal doesnt work. we bled the clutch and still no improvment. Whats wrong here? my dad thinks he may have put the throwout bearing in backwards but i remember puting in the throwout bearing the correct way. any ideas?
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (Longboarder)

is it stuck to the floor? or does it just not come back by itself? maybe the over the center spring on the pedal came off?
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (BLUE NRG)

aight, i had the same exact problem a few weeks ago.
my problem was i bled the slave before the master...bad idea.
you will need a vacuum or brake bleeder.
start the bleeding the master cylinder (the one attached to the firewall)
then bleed the slave ( the one on the trans)
my clutch felt super soft, but i guess its normal cause it works fine. good luck.
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (porn8069)

when i bled the slave cylinder, fluid still came out. so i just expected that the master cylinder was fine. i will try bleeding the master and then the slave and see how that works. thanks everyone
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (Longboarder)

Do you got the long pin that passes threw the throw out bearing and presses in on the pressure plate spring in the trans? It can fall out, and without it nothing would seperate the clutch from pp. Hopefully just needs bleeding!
Paul
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (A2T)

you HAVE to bleed in it order...similar to the braking system....clutch master cylinder first (located on the firewall underneath the coolant tank) and then slave cylinder.
Of course your slave cylinder can be shot to hell so bleeding may not solve it...but you have to eliminate solutions one by one
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (Longboarder)

Let me know if you fix this. I've just bled my entire brake/clutch system to replace the fluid and now the clutch pedal does the same as yours...won't come up with lifting. And yes, I did do the master first. I repeated the whole process last night and still no fix. I've run out of fresh fluid so I'll be getting more to try one more time.
When people say to keep the reservoir full during bleeding, do they mean right to the point of overflowing or simply to keep it at or above the MAX line on the outside of the reservoir? The latter is what I was doing and something wasn't working right. I used a one-way valved bleeder line and saw no bubbles when I finally re-closed the bleeders.
Mike.
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (Longboarder)

YOU HAVE TO BLEED EVERYTHING!!!
you have to bleed the brake lines first. rear, then front. then bleed your master cylinders. your slave cyinder might be bad as well. i had this problem when i did my tranny. then i did that....it worked.
i am a vw tech and the master techican told me to do that!!!
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (tornado)

Keep the fluid resevior filled to the VERY TOP. I'm not sure why, but the bleeding process is much easier this way. You have to siphon the extra fluid out after you have bled the system. Also, if you did bleed everything in the right order, your slave cylinder is probably broken. This happened to me last month, and wasn't very hard or expensive to do. If the master cylinder loses a seal, you will usually get brake fluid in the drivers compartment at the pedal/firewall.
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (schwagn)

Ok, I re-bled the clutch last night. Things seemed to firm up. Pedal would come up with normal pumping. However, when I went to drive the car, holding down the clutch while starting with the car in gear, after starting the engine and few seconds before letting off the handbrake, I noticed the engine start to labor and the car start to shudder and creep forward. Then the engine stalled. Seemed like the clutch was being let out slowly, eventhough my foot was still on the pedal.
I guess this means one or more of the seals is leaking, letting the pressure off. Should I just replace both master & slave? How much are these?
Mike.
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (schwagn)

quote:[HR][/HR]Keep the fluid resevior filled to the VERY TOP.
[HR][/HR]​
Exactly. The clutch reservoir is within the brake cylinder reservoir, but it only will be filled if you over fill the whole reservoir. There is an internal baffle, which prevents one from draining the other, should say your clutch cylinder go out. The clutch side is very small in volume compared to the brake side, so it's very easy to introduce air into the line. That's why you need to keep it filled to the top while bleeding the clutch. Have a friend help out with keeping it filled while you bleed the line.
 

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Re: Installed clutch, clutch pedal wont come up (SLC4EVER)

This seems to make sense, except that when I keep the fluid above the Max line but not to the very top of the reservoir, I still get fluid flowing into the clutch cylinders and fluid level in the reservoir keeps going down as I bleed. So how's it getting out if it MUST be filled from the very top overfilled level? Looking into the reservoir, I can see a small opening very near the top lip; this looks like a vent hole for one of the internal chambers (clutch or secondary brake). A vent hole is important to prevent a vacuum and allow fluid to flow easily to the cylinders. There is a second opening alittle lower down. All of these well above the max line.
Also, the clutch gravity feed line is actually below the Max line, and about at the Min line. So, loosing a clutch cylinder will not drain the brakes below minimum.

quote:[HR][/HR]KExactly. The clutch reservoir is within the brake cylinder reservoir, but it only will be filled if you over fill the whole reservoir. There is an internal baffle, which prevents one from draining the other, should say your clutch cylinder go out. The clutch side is very small in volume compared to the brake side, so it's very easy to introduce air into the line. That's why you need to keep it filled to the top while bleeding the clutch. Have a friend help out with keeping it filled while you bleed the line.[HR][/HR]​
 

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Solved it!

Finally got my clutch sorted lastnight. 6 days, ~12 bleeds, 5 large bottles of Castrol LMA and a new slave cylinder failed to fix it. Sprang for a new master and everything worked right. This all started when I decided to change the fluid (1st time in 10 years!). I suspect gunk being dislodged during the flush out must had been the last straw to the master seals.
Both the slave & master cylinders are made of an aluminum alloy and are susceptible to wear. There are also no repait kits to my knowledge available. Slave=$75, Master=$99.
Mike.
 
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