VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have a 2012 CC and will be soon attempting to install the backup camera to my RNS-510.

Does anybody know of any well written instructions for someone who is not very advanced? What kind of tools do I need etc.

I found a great write up in a .pdf with pictures on how to swap the RCD for the RNS, but nothing for the camera yet.

Or if someone would consider writing it, I would very much appreciate it.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
I posted the same thing last week and nothing


Volkswagen of Crystal Lake
VW Master technician
Authorized Unitronic dealer
13 CC and 15 Jetta Sport
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well how did it go for you? did you attempt the install yet?

also, what kind of camera do you have?

I will be trying the cheap chinese OEM.. curious how it will work out.. if it won't work I'll go with OEM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Hello Everybody !

The user matthewsjl posted this in 02-18-2013

Best of luck !

The goal of the project is to retro-fit a rear view camera to the CC and interface to the standard RNS-315 head unit. We will be using the the camera-in-emblem 'low' configuration. The low configuration will present in the RNS-315 display with lines that *do not* move when you turn the steering wheel. Wiring summary: video & positive to the front of the car, yellow to right rear reverse light on trunk lid, black to ground stud in left rear trunk area. Wires will run front to rear along/under the left hand door sill.

Parts Required:
1 x VW Emblem with camera: 5K0 827 469 AQ
1 x Wire harness (supplied by Car Systems)
Crimp components
Scotchlok connector (for hooking into reverse lights)











Tools required:
Various trim removal tools
Socket set (metric)
Torx bits
Crimp tools or soldering iron
Insulating electrical tape

Cost:
Approximately $550
Parts sourced from Carsystems.pl (ebay store). $525 included overnight shipping from Poland.

Time:
6-8 hours
Preparation: unwrap the harness as provided by CarSystems. You can't run it as they supplied it wrapped. You are looking to separate the video, red, black and yellow that are the long wires. Leave the 2 and 4 pin connectors wrapped.

Battery:
I did disconnect the battery - but in theory you don't actually need to for this install. You're only powering up the rear view camera right at the end when you connect to the fuse box. The trunk release will not work until power is applied from the fusebox. If you do disconnect the battery, remember to drop the windows and recalibrate them after reconnecting the battery.

Detailed Procedure:
Rear Emblem Changeout
Open the trunk.
Remove the two rubber stops (only one in picture), the drain stop and lastly the plastic trim around the trunk latch.



Pop off the trim attached to the trunk lid. It takes some force to start the process but once one clip is out it's much easier.
Disconnect the emergency release cable from the white pulley near the trunk latch.





Remove trim from vehicle.
Disconnect harness from rear emblem (one connector, 2 pin).
Unscrew 3 x T25 screws that hold the emblem in place.
Remove emblem.
Remove stopper in bottom of trunk directly under the emblem.
Attach the drain hose to the emblem. Warming up the hose in hot water helps. Secure with a tie-wrap. Remove the rubber grommet from the drain hose for now.
Fit new 5K0 827 469 AQ emblem with camera and ensure that drain hose is sticking out of the drian hole. Secure using previously removed 3 x T25 screws. There are stops on the body/camera to ensure alignment in the hole. Use them!
Push on the grommet to secure the drain hose into the body exit hole. It's a tight fit and I trimmed mine a little with a razor blade to ease insertion. Cut off excess drain hose with a razor blade.



2 Rear LH trunk area trim removal
Remove trunk carpeting from trunk floor area.
Remove trunk plastic from lower area of opening (piece that goes around the latch hole). Pull up at one side and work along popping all the clips off. Pull up to remove.
Remove plastic pop rivet clips holding the trunk side carpet in place. There are three of these; one at the front attaching the carpet to the top of the trunk area at the front, one at the rear which should have been exposed by removing the trunk plastic in the opening area and the last one close to the trunk support arm. These clips are removed by levering out the center pin and then removing the clip.
Remove the torx screw in the lower center of the trunk liner.
Pull the trunk side carpet out so that you can work behind it in the left rear.

3 Rear seat removal
Release the rear seat by pulling up on the front of each outside passenger seat. Center your pull on the outboard seat centers.
Push the seat towards the rear of the car at each side to unhook (see picture).
Remove the seat and place safely to one side.



4 Rear side bolster removal
Unscrew the retaining nut at the bottom of the bolster.



The bolster is hooked at the top so has to move up before it will come free.
There is a clip about half way up the outside of the bolster - I broke mine.... so didn't see how it was attached.



Remove and put safely to one side.

5 Sill removal
Unscrew the two sill retaining bolts which were uncovered by the rear seat.
Unclip the trim running up the C pillar from the sill trim (the C pillar trim sits over the floor sill at the bottom).
Pop off the sill by levering up. Work from the back of the car towards the B pillar.



Now move to the A pillar and work the trim off from the front of the car towards the B pillar.
You do not need to completely remove the trim around the B pillar - we can fish wires through there!

6 A Pillar
Pop the very bottom of the plastic trim off (where it goes under the sill trim).
Pop off the A pillar vertical maybe just a single clip. That's enough to go fishing :)



7 Driver glove box
Remove by opening, release the tabs that stop the glovebox from falling completely.
Once fully open, pull the glove box out - it will just pop off the hinge.

8 RNS-315 removal
Pop off the trim using trim tools. Start at the lower left and side and work round.
Detatch the hazard button - careful it doesn't drop back into the dash......
Remove the radio using 4 x Torx bits.
Have a coffee/beer. You're doing well so far.

9 Wire preparation.
Cut the wires at the emblem harness end as follows:
- yellow, 3ft
- black, 1ft
- red, 1ft
Remove the blue video connector housing. Remove the purple locking clip and then look underneath where you have to pry up a bit of the blue plastic to release. Mark the cable to you know which way the connector aligns for inserting (use a sharpie and mark the top of the metal connector). Wrap the metal connector in electrical tape to protect it.

10 Running wires
Gather the video cable in the front passenger seat. We're now going to start passing the bit of the video cable wrapped in electrical tape through the car - starting at the head unit. Leave the cables loose and wrap them in as part of the final installation.
Feed the cable in through the head unit opening (don't plug into the head unit as yet). You are looking to route the cable under the steering column area. Once you have the cable to the drivers glovebox, pull all the cable through and attach to the RNS-315. Slide the RNS-315 back into place.
Attach a 1.5ft length of 14 gauge electrical wire to the video connector to aid with fishing.
Using the access provided by the removed drivers glovebox, fish the wire down the lower A pillar. You should be able to grab the wire if you pry up the lower bit of the A pillar trim that you loosened earlier in the trim removal. Once you have it.... pull it all through.
Now attach the long red wire to the video cable to pull from the A pillar to the back of the car. Fish the wire through to the rear passenger footwell, following the existing cable runs (there are some plastic cable guides installed that loosely contain the cables try to pass through these as much as possible).
Once in the rear footwell, fish up the C pillar, again using the guides as much as possible.
Pull all the cable through to the C pillar area - leaving about 2ft of red cable hanging out near the A-pillar (need to run this to the fusebox later).
Feed the cables up and round the C pillar and into the left rear trunk area.
Now attach the cut end of the black cable to the video cable.
Feed the video, red and black cables up the trunk support arm. Pull them through so they are close to the new emblem/wires.
Undo all the electrical tape so the wires are free.
Pull through the black cable *only* so that the ring end can be attached to the ground stud in the left rear trunk area.
Attach the ground to the stud by unclipping the locking ring (3 tabs), removing the nut and then adding the new ground ring. Put the nut back and lock the nut in place using the white clip.



11 Attaching wires
Attach the Car Systems harness to the emblem. The four pin connector attaches to the emblem, and the two pin connector attaches to the existing car wiring (that we unplugged from the original emblem).
Connect together the black and red wires using your preferred method (solder/shrinkwrap/crimp).
Run the yellow cable to the right light unit in the trunklid. Connect the yellow cable to the 3rd pin looking from the back of the car to the front and counting left to right (see picture). I used a 3M scotchlock (red).







Powering
Run the red wire up the A pillar (again using 14 gauge elec cable as a fishing aid).
Connect in an add-a-fuse and put in a powered fuse slot.



VAG-COM (VCDS) Modifications
The nav unit needs to be told that it has a camera attached. Modify the coding of address 37 (Navigation) as below:



Test
With the car unlocked, the trunk release should now work. If it doesn't, check your wiring.
With the trunk closed, start the car and place the car in reverse. The camera should pop out and show the rear view.



Clean-up
Attach all wires securely and protect any exposed wires from chafing on metal edges.

Interior re-install
Basically the reverse of dismantling. Have at it. It does go back in faster than it comes out. Remember to attach the emergency trunk release handle.

Relax & enjoy.

Cheers,

John.[/QUOTE]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Customer got a Amazon one and the install was very easy but the coding was crazy couldn't get the picture to come up. Still kinda working on it


Volkswagen of Crystal Lake
VW Master technician
Authorized Unitronic dealer
13 CC and 15 Jetta Sport
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
wow this sure looks tough..

might have to have a shop do this one for me.. my guy offered to do it for $100 which seems like a solid deal looking at this.. perhaps with a video I'd be able to do it, but not sure..

the coding I see is missing.. do you guys mind posting that so I can give it to my guy?

also,

what determines the trajectory lines? and whether they are steering wheel adaptive or not?
of course I'd prefer to do it in a way that they are adaptive..

also, one last thing, does it matter whether I do VAGCOM coding first, then the install?? or do I have to install the RNS510 and camera and do the coding after that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I used this same write up to install my back-up camera which I purchased from Deutche Auto for like $570. It's a great write up and not really as hard as you think if you follow it step by step. At max it should take someone with medium skills taking their time like 3, 3 1/2 hours. It was a VW brand flip emblem camera that I purchased. It did not have the trajectory lines. I was told that the set-up for a camera and image with trajectory lines is approx. $1500. That was too rich for my blood. At first I had the RNS-315 radio/navigation unit, but after driving around for a couple of weeks I felt that the screen was a little too small for my "old" eyes so I purchased an RNS-510 with the 7" screen from a guy on ebay for $750. You can have the radio/navigation coded either before or after the camera install. If you have it coded before the install, then everytime you go in reverse you will get a blank screen with the safety warning about backing up on the bottom. As far as the coding is concerned, look at the flip emblem back up cameras on ebay. Many of the sellers include the VAGCOM coding printed in their adds. I copied it to a word document, printed it out, then gave it to my dealership for them to do the coding. They did not give it back to me, or else I could have scanned it and included it here. Also depending upon your year of CC, the reverse wire that activates the flip-up function of the emblem may be different from what is depicted in the installation instructions. One final thing - if you install the camera and have the coding done and the reverese image does not display, you have to reset your radio/navigation unit. Then it should work just fine. I hope this helps. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wow this helped tremendously!

thank you so much.. glad it worked out for you!

only thing that I was wondering about is where you said: " If you have it coded before the install, then everytime you go in reverse you will get a blank screen with the safety warning about backing up on the bottom. "

with that you mean that if I do the coding afterwards, it won't show that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
wow this helped tremendously!

thank you so much.. glad it worked out for you!

only thing that I was wondering about is where you said: " If you have it coded before the install, then everytime you go in reverse you will get a blank screen with the safety warning about backing up on the bottom. "

with that you mean that if I do the coding afterwards, it won't show that?
No, it will definitely show that after you do the coding, so you can put the camera in first and then do the coding. It was just unusual for me to have a blank screen on my display withouut an image, but that is because I had not installed the camera yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright guys so with the help of a car shop I was able to install it.. since mine was a chinese one it was different from the manual here in a way that it has an additional control module that had to be installed and they didn't know how to do that at first at the audio shop.. so a job that was supposed to be 1-1:30 max turned out to take almost 4 hours.. whew.. good thing I agreed with them on a price before hand

one thing however..

on this flip up emblem camera, when I go into reverse, then stop, go rioght to park, take they key out and leave the car, it seems that the camera stays open.. a remedy I found for this is to reverse, then go to neutral instead of park, wait for the video to disappear which takes about 10 seconds, then go to park and take the key out..

does the OEM camera have this also? is there anything I can do in order for it to always close, without having to go to neutral?

I have a feeling that it closes also if I go from reverse to park after I wait 10 seconds and then take key out.. only difference with neutral is that I can tell exactly when it closed because of the screen shutting down.. at least that's how it appears to be.. it's not 100%
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
The OEM on closes straight from park. Does yours have the guide lines that show the trajectory or the car (front wheels)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah I feel like it simply doesn't close when I pull out the keys with the camera not back.. it takes a few seconds for it to close and then it's ok to pull the keys out..
basically you can't back up, go straight in to park and then take the keys out right away.. reverse, park, wait a few secs and then pull keys out..

can you guys think of any way to remedy this, or just live with it? it's not that bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
add-a-fuse

Hi John,

As I was searching online, the add-a-fuse has two slots for fuses. I assume one for the original and the other Do I need to put two fuses in? If so, whats the amp I should use for the wire?

Powering
Run the red wire up the A pillar (again using 14 gauge elec cable as a fishing aid).
Connect in an add-a-fuse and put in a powered fuse slot.

[/QUOTE]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Yay!

Got it all set. Did an aftermarket radio on a 2013 VW CC. Mine too is not an OEM Rear Logo BU Camera Emblem, it is Chinese. I do not have any problems with it closing/opening and so on. As soon as I reverse, I put it in park, take my key out and it shuts almost immediately. John's post helped a lot, but I wired the emblem in the back of the radio itself, not sure if that has anything to do with it closing/opening the BU emblem immediately. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got it all set. Did an aftermarket radio on a 2013 VW CC. Mine too is not an OEM Rear Logo BU Camera Emblem, it is Chinese. I do not have any problems with it closing/opening and so on. As soon as I reverse, I put it in park, take my key out and it shuts almost immediately. John's post helped a lot, but I wired the emblem in the back of the radio itself, not sure if that has anything to do with it closing/opening the BU emblem immediately. :)
what do you mean by wired the emblem in the back of the radio itself?

your view on the radio still has a delay right? say you go in reverse, then go back into park and it takes a few seconds for the screen to go away and for the camera to close? or does the camera close instantly after you put the gearbox in park.
Because in my case if I don't wait for the camera to shut to take the car key out, it will stay open..

It is kind of annoying to always have to wait those approximately 6-10 seconds, but it is not that horrible. If there were a way for me to get rid of that though, I would be glad.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top