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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my tach in my cluster doesnt work. I want to keep this origional cluster, because it is in great shape, is origional to the car, and is a 16v one, so it reads to 8k instead of the 8v's that read only to 7k.
If it is possible to fix how would i go about fixing it, IE what is a common thing to break in the tach to make it die.
Thanks
 

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Re: IS IT POSSIBLE TO FIX A BROKEN TACHOMETER???? (FlyGLI89)

I guess itd just be easier to find a new tach and stick it in this cluster. Anyone have a 8k tach for a 89 jetta gli or equivilant. Ce1 dual plug cluster, just need tach
 

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depends what the problem is, could be the feed to it from the coil is dead, or there is a fried circuit on the pcb of the clocks. try pulling the dash fuse for 30 seconds before you do anything else!
a quick test to see if the tach signal is getting thru, pull the yellow oil pressure switch wire then rev the engine over 2k, you should get the oil light & oil buzzer should sound.
 

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Re: (rubjonny)

Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
depends what the problem is, could be the feed to it from the coil is dead, or there is a fried circuit on the pcb of the clocks. try pulling the dash fuse for 30 seconds before you do anything else!
a quick test to see if the tach signal is getting thru, pull the yellow oil pressure switch wire then rev the engine over 2k, you should get the oil light & oil buzzer should sound.

Agreed, good advice. I had an issue with the wiring harness that connected to the coil. When it wouldn't be a good connection, my tach would just read 0 and my oil light would come on

The oil pressure sensor he's talking about is only read after 2k rpms, there's another oil sensor for lower rpms.
 

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Re: (rubjonny)

Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
a quick test to see if the tach signal is getting thru, pull the yellow oil pressure switch wire then rev the engine over 2k, you should get the oil light & oil buzzer should sound.

I'm curious about this because my tach is also not working. It stopped at the exact same time I put my new coil in. I'm sure it's an internally broken wire or something else simple. Is the oil pressure signal on the same wire as the tach signal? I wouldn't think so, but I'm no expert. Or does testing the oil pressure signal verify that the pcb circuit on the clock is working?
 

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Re: (sluggo0018)

Quote, originally posted by sluggo0018 »

I'm curious about this because my tach is also not working. It stopped at the exact same time I put my new coil in. I'm sure it's an internally broken wire or something else simple. Is the oil pressure signal on the same wire as the tach signal? I wouldn't think so, but I'm no expert. Or does testing the oil pressure signal verify that the pcb circuit on the clock is working?

I'd check the connector on the outside of your coil first. In my car (dunno if they're all the same or not), it's the connection closest to you when looking at the coil from the front of the car. I have a pic of mine somewhere around here... I ended up soldering the wire directly to it since I was struggling getting a connector on there that would work!
 

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the red/black wire to the coil is the rev counter signal, and yes the oil pressure warning circuit and tach get their signal from the same wire
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (rubjonny)

Well, in my situation, i know the problem is in the cluster. The tach works on other clusters ive barrowed and tried, and also, in my case, there is no one coil, four in fact. Its a 1.8t swap. Thanks for the info guys, if anyone has the info/ knowledge, post some stuff regarding placing a different compatable tach, in the origional cluster. Thanks
 
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